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Called my dealer for a regear quote…

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NewGladdyOWNR

NewGladdyOWNR

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Thanks everyone for the info.

I’m really torn on dropping down to 33’s and not regearing to 4:88’s and selling my 35’s. I want my performance back. If I were to regear, would 4:88’s make a night and day difference and get me close to stock performance? Option A: would save me about $1,300. Option B: would cost me more money but I’d get to keep my 35’s with potentially stock performance . Decisions decisions
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Thanks everyone for the info.

I’m really torn on dropping down to 33’s and not regearing to 4:88’s and selling my 35’s. I want my performance back. If I were to regear, would 4:88’s make a night and day difference and get me close to stock performance? Option A: would save me about $1,300. Option B: would cost me more money but I’d get to keep my 35’s with potentially stock performance . Decisions decisions
You need gears for 35's for sure and 33's probably to be correct as your truck came with 3.73's? You need to decide if the juice is worth the squeeze.........We cant decide that for you.

If you are not towing heavy and mainly operate in flat land, 4.10's for 33's, 4.56 for 35's, and 4.88's for 37's are the general rule.

You are adding weight and rolling mass is worse than static in terms of slowing performance. Most of the aftermarket wheels are HEAVY! That said, you will never get "Stock" performance from a gear swap, but your transmission will be able to keep you in the right gear and engine can stay in power band longer for better performance.
 

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Wheelin98TJ

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...If you are not towing heavy and mainly operate in flat land, 4.10's for 33's, 4.56 for 35's, and 4.88's for 37's are the general rule...
I'd rather be geared deeper.

4.56 or 4.88 for 33s.
4.88 or 5.13 for 35s.
5.13 or 5.38 for 37s.

If you were to do 4.56 with 35s, you'll be turning about 2,100 RPM at 70 MPH. I don't know that it would hold overdrive very easily at only 2,100 RPM. I'd rather be at 2,300-2,400 RPM like you'd be with 4.88 or 5.13.
 
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NewGladdyOWNR

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I went through a similar sort of tire size mid jeep life crisis.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/worth-it-to-go-back.47891/

My end result was going back to a more oem size and im VERY happy I did.
you nailed it with tire size Jeep life crisis. I might have a hard time selling my tires and wheels, which cost me about $2500. So if I regear that’ll be $2300, and if I can’t sell my tires and wheels I’m out $2500. So either way I’m losing money, with that said I’ll probably regear lol.
 

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I'd rather be geared deeper.

4.56 or 4.88 for 33s.
4.88 or 5.13 for 35s.
5.13 or 5.38 for 37s.

If you were to do 4.56 with 35s, you'll be turning about 2,100 RPM at 70 MPH. I don't know that it would hold overdrive very easily at only 2,100 RPM. I'd rather be at 2,300-2,400 RPM like you'd be with 4.88 or 5.13.
found this on exodus4x4.com. A shop that does a ton of gears.

Jeep Gladiator Called my dealer for a regear quote… E3127A27-1A7C-4EE9-B892-37C29B891596
 

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I'd rather be geared deeper.

4.56 or 4.88 for 33s.
4.88 or 5.13 for 35s.
5.13 or 5.38 for 37s.

If you were to do 4.56 with 35s, you'll be turning about 2,100 RPM at 70 MPH. I don't know that it would hold overdrive very easily at only 2,100 RPM. I'd rather be at 2,300-2,400 RPM like you'd be with 4.88 or 5.13.
It's all in what you want from it and what you are willing to give up on the back side. I don't get concerned with holding 8th gear on hills like many here do........7th and 8th are the weakest gears in the transmission and generate the more heat than 6th (Direct). I like to set these things up to tow in 6th and 7th most of the time in the rolling hills and save 8th for unloaded on the flats unless the person has more specific needs like only flat land or only towing for examples.

I geared a 7,000lb 2020 Rubi JT on Heavy Toyo M/T 37's for a client that also tows a larger (22'?) travel trailer, RTT above the cab, and a full on KC light bar. Nothing flat here.....9% grades East/West and 6% North.....We decided on 5.13's would be best for him and he loves it. I think it's a bit low geared when I roadtest it without the trailer, but I bet it works pretty good loaded.

I apply my gear recomendations to all my clients with JL's too without a single comlaint. One guy went 4.88's with the intentions of jumping up to 37's from his current 35's and he says it's tolerable right now.
 

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Not bad, but they seem not deep enough for some.

5.13 with 39s, you're only going to be turning ~2,100 RPM at 70.
That's a definite lean toward off road performance.

NO WAY would I install 4.56's in a JT Eco on 37's! I have 16K miles on mine with 5000 miles of that towing trailers 4k+ in the steepest country of CA, NV, CO, UT, and still think 3.73's are a perfect balance.
 

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That's a definite lean toward off road performance.

NO WAY would I install 4.56's in a JT Eco on 37's! I have 16K miles on mine with 5000 miles of that towing trailers 4k+ in the steepest country of CA, NV, CO, UT, and still think 3.73's are a perfect balance.
I wasn't paying much attention to their diesel recommendations.

Weird how they recommend 4.56 for the diesel and 37s, but then recommend 5.13 for a gasser on 39s. Too low for the diesel, not low enough for the gas.
 

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I wasn't paying much attention to their diesel recommendations.

Weird how they recommend 4.56 for the diesel and 37s, but then recommend 5.13 for a gasser on 39s. Too low for the diesel, not low enough for the gas.
It's all subject to someone's opinion!

Exodus has a cool YouTube channel and works some big builds, but I wouldn't let them touch my Jeep. I fact, after watching videos of gear installs done by Dynatrac and Yukon....I have seen things that I wouldn't do in my own shop.....these guys are the "Experts"? I can only imagine what goes on in these high volume discount gear installer's shops........
 

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It's all subject to someone's opinion!

Exodus has a cool YouTube channel and works some big builds, but I wouldn't let them touch my Jeep. I fact, after watching videos of gear installs done by Dynatrac and Yukon....I have seen things that I wouldn't do in my own shop.....these guys are the "Experts"? I can only imagine what goes on in these high volume discount gear installer's shops........
Very true, gearing is subjective.
 

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I was quoted a little over 1800 for 4.88s last week. I'm moving up to 35s and to me the gear swap will be worth it, but I'm ok with running my 3.73 for a little while.

I do tow a boat and maybe a light camping trailer int he future so I might even go with 5.13s. I haven't decided yet.
 
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It's all in what you want from it and what you are willing to give up on the back side. I don't get concerned with holding 8th gear on hills like many here do........7th and 8th are the weakest gears in the transmission and generate the more heat than 6th (Direct). I like to set these things up to tow in 6th and 7th most of the time in the rolling hills and save 8th for unloaded on the flats unless the person has more specific needs like only flat land or only towing for examples.

I geared a 7,000lb 2020 Rubi JT on Heavy Toyo M/T 37's for a client that also tows a larger (22'?) travel trailer, RTT above the cab, and a full on KC light bar. Nothing flat here.....9% grades East/West and 6% North.....We decided on 5.13's would be best for him and he loves it. I think it's a bit low geared when I roadtest it without the trailer, but I bet it works pretty good loaded.

I apply my gear recomendations to all my clients with JL's too without a single comlaint. One guy went 4.88's with the intentions of jumping up to 37's from his current 35's and he says it's tolerable right now.
what does he mean “it’s tolerable” running 35’s on 4:88’s?? That’s the setup I planned on running. What does he not like about it?
 

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what does he mean “it’s tolerable” running 35’s on 4:88’s?? That’s the setup I planned on running. What does he not like about it?
It revs a little higher than it needs to and fuel economy is probably suffering. This is why I recommend 4.56s for 35s unless you are towing heavy or travel with 4 people and a heavily loaded roof rack.
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