It must be the 39's because I was on 35's (315 cooper stt pro) and it seemed those brackets were just a rock magnet. I'd roll off a rock and smash into it with the drop bracket repeatedly.
Why run 3+" of lift... and 35s that fit with no lift if we are calling each other out for ground clearance?
lol it was a JKU and those don't fit 35's stock (and still flex).Why run 3+" of lift... and 35s that fit with no lift if we are calling each other out for ground clearance?
You’re referencing fully drooped, no on drives around like that. They need to be the same angle at ride height to minimize bump steer. Hence why you use adjustable arms to… adjust them longer for the lift and bring them to a common angle. Mine is 9 degrees each at ride height. They’re perfectly parallel to one another. Any bracket will change unless I move both the same amount. The low height track bar brackets like that from teraflex are designed to eliminate the need for an adjustable track bar. That’s why any other company that makes a track bar bracket makes it designed to be used along with a drag link flip.Here’s my proof. Suspension fully drooped (11.5” travel) drag link at 14 degrees and the track bar at 18 degrees. They are not parallel. So the farther the axle gets away from the frame, the bigger the difference in the arc that they travel. The shorter track bar is traveling in a shorter arc. So the axle is swinging more towards the drivers side then the drag link is.
The OP asked if there is any way to make the steering better. I’m simply trying to offer sound advice.
As you lift a vehicle the track bar and drag link increase in angle, yes that’s well known. You want them parallel with the ground or as close to, to a certain extent (which after a lift is not possible without a relocation bracket for the track bar and flipping the drag link), you also want them parallel to each other. When lifting the angle at which they sit will increase together UNLESS you change their mounting location. If they were parallel to each other prior to a lift, they should remain parallel to each other after. You want them parallel to each other. If you add a track bar relocation bracket that raises the track bar, and you don’t flip the drag link they will not be parallel. You aren’t understanding this. The reason bump steer occurs is because the track bar and drag link are no longer parallel to the ground. They swing in an arc and you’ve known forced them to a steeper angle than before. So when the suspension compresses and extends they will swing in or out resulting in the steering wheel moving aka bump steer. If they are not parallel to each other this will greatly increase the bump steer felt. If you move the track bar up the drag link needs to follow….. that’s the whole point I’ve been trying to make. You keep stating purely a track bar relocation bracket will cure it, no because you will then make the drag link and track bar no longer parallel with each other and they will no longer be following the same path when the suspension compresses and extends. You also want them equal lengths of possible. In your above photo with the suspension dropped, your track bar and drag link aren’t parallel. IF that was the case at ride height, then yes you need a track bar bracket to move the track bar up to equal the angle of the drag link. My jeep does not look like that, they are equal as is. Therefore adding a bracket would now make them unequal.
Yeah, sort of, and not in the way it's done by Jeep owners. That's a preload adjustment. IF you have play, you have a problem. The only proper way is box OFF, on the bench, and get the input shaft or worm shaft preload set, then you set the preload on that screw.
Drop pitman arms are a great solution for leaf sprung vehicles. For linked/ coil sprung rigs we need the track bar and drag link parallel. Theoretically you could run a drop pitman arm and a raised track bar mount, but if you're going there why not just flip the drag link on top of the knuckle? The yeti kit doesn't even require drilling.
Forgot about that option - I think that's the sort of thing the wild hobo man was doing, but his required drilling (although it allowed flipping back if I recall)
Do you know about how much shorter the track bar is than the drag link? Someone smart could do some calcs to show the bumpsteer.
We run the yeti no drill option on my wife's JLUR. That you could definitely switch back. Even the metalcloak one on my JT you could flip back over by simply installing the tapered insert from the bottom.
