Clayton Offroad Spring Install Problems

[3VOLVE]

I love Clayton’s diesel springs. While I haven’t experienced any lean, I would highly recommend switching to Clayton’s HD rear springs with the cap, rack, and all the stuff you’re loading in the bed. Will definitely get rid of that rake.

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[Vtur]

Here is a before and after pic. The truck is sitting on a preexisting AEV 2.5” lift with AEV geometry correction brackets, Clayton front and rear adjustable track bars, and fox 2.0 performance shocks for 2-3” lift. Was only swapping springs as I did not like the AEV springs.

Look leveled to me. Put the level on your rock slider. The Rubi front flares are higher.

 

[Rusty PW]

Here is a before and after pic. The truck is sitting on a preexisting AEV 2.5” lift with AEV geometry correction brackets, Clayton front and rear adjustable track bars, and fox 2.0 performance shocks for 2-3” lift. Was only swapping springs as I did not like the AEV springs.

When I had a question. Clayton told me to measure at the pinch weld behind the rock rail, behind the front tire and in front of the rear tire to see if it's level or not.

 

[earthemigrant]

I will definitely take those measurements after I try to let the front settle.

 

[earthemigrant]

Look leveled to me. Put the level on your rock slider. The Rubi front flares are higher.

I was ignorant of this as well. Thank you. Can I ask how much?

 

[earthemigrant]

On the weight RSI says the cap for a gladiator weighs 185 lbs. I don’t run a spare and the only thing in the bed is a set of BuiltRight molle panels. I figure I am maybe 100-120 lbs over stock weight. The rack came off before the springs were installed. And I went from side steps to rock rails.

 

[earthemigrant]

Alright so update. Good news. After loosening the suspension bolts up, jumping on it for a bit, and letting it sit a while before torquing everything back up with the wheels on the ground not much lean. Also one of the front springs was just ever so slightly spun. Front end dropped a little.

measured the rake at the pinch seam and I am reverse .5-.75 inch depending on side. Good news a colleague with a gladiator has a set of the Clayton rear 3.5 springs gathering dust we can work out a trade for. He went full MetalCloak. I am having them installed on Tuesday. Hoping I can return these 2.5 rear springs but not holding my breath.

Things are looking up. Thank you all.

 

[TJMarc]

Alright so update. Good news. After loosening the suspension bolts up, jumping on it for a bit, and letting it sit a while before torquing everything back up with the wheels on the ground not much lean. Also one of the front springs was just ever so slightly spun. Front end dropped a little.

measured the rake at the pinch seam and I am reverse .5-.75 inch depending on side. Good news a colleague with a gladiator has a set of the Clayton rear 3.5 springs gathering dust we can work out a trade for. He went full MetalCloak. I am having them installed on Tuesday. Hoping I can return these 2.5 rear springs but not holding my breath.

Things are looking up. Thank you all.

Great to hear and thank you for the follow up…too often these threads are left hanging.


Regarding the side to side lean. I often fall into the trap of throwing money at things and always have to remind myself to systematically start at the basic things and work my way to the more complex/expensive. Glad the loosening and re-torque fixed that issue.

In general…but not always the case, I find that Occam's razor holds true…the simplest reason/solution.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Alright so update. Good news. After loosening the suspension bolts up, jumping on it for a bit, and letting it sit a while before torquing everything back up with the wheels on the ground not much lean. Also one of the front springs was just ever so slightly spun. Front end dropped a little.

measured the rake at the pinch seam and I am reverse .5-.75 inch depending on side. Good news a colleague with a gladiator has a set of the Clayton rear 3.5 springs gathering dust we can work out a trade for. He went full MetalCloak. I am having them installed on Tuesday. Hoping I can return these 2.5 rear springs but not holding my breath.

Things are looking up. Thank you all.

Hey there, glad it looks like this issue is pretty much resolved, that little trick usually always works to remove any lean from bind.

For the reverse rake though, that is a bit weird. I would be interested to know exactly how much weight you are running from accessories, because it is possible the HD springs would have worked better for you if you are really heavy. While it is true we cannot take springs back after being installed (this is one of the only parts we really have to enforce this with) I would be happy to assist you in upgrading to the HD springs with a discount if you do want to upgrade. Just give us a call and we'll see what we can do to help!

 

[Uparms]

There are spring shims out there from a few vendors.

I was surprised mt AEV 2.5 RT came with a shim for the right spring. Never had any issues with the 2020 and early Mopar 2 inch lift.

 

[earthemigrant]

I do not believe I am heavy at all. Currently during the install I am completely unloaded. I have the following:

SmartCap Sport - 185 lbs
BuiltRight Molle System - 45 lbs
Jeep Bed Line - ? Lbs
No Spare

that’s it. Without the spare I could not be more than 150lbs over stock weight back there. If 150 lbs will squat your springs this much that is surprising.

Shop is putting on some of your 3.5” triple rate rear springs today. I am never loaded over 400-500 lbs max I couldn’t cycle HD springs.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

I do not believe I am heavy at all. Currently during the install I am completely unloaded. I have the following:

SmartCap Sport - 185 lbs
BuiltRight Molle System - 45 lbs
Jeep Bed Line - ? Lbs
No Spare

that’s it. Without the spare I could not be more than 150lbs over stock weight back there. If 150 lbs will squat your springs this much that is surprising.

Shop is putting on some of your 3.5” triple rate rear springs today. I am never loaded over 400-500 lbs max I couldn’t cycle HD springs.

I can say with absolute certainty 150 lbs would not squat the springs, as this is a product we have been selling for a long time now, and through our own and customer testing the non HD springs always handle around 300 lbs before sitting level. It sounds like there is something else going on, we would have to verify you definitely received the correct rear springs, but like I said, if you do want to go with the HD option, more than happy to help you out with a discount.

 

[earthemigrant]

Update: they installed the 3.5” springs today. I am back to 1.25” of forward rake unloaded. I was originally looking to remove 1” inch of the factory rake which Is close enough for me. Satisfied with the result.

 

[earthemigrant]

Shop didn’t find anything wrong or unusual regarding the rear suspension setup prior to the install. I verified the part number on the 2.5” set they were correct.

 

[Ordnanceman20]

I still have a 1/2 lean to the passenger with my 3.5 Clayton Lift. It also rode pretty rough with swaying on the highway. I've been adding Rock Krawler parts, Such as the Rear Track Bar relocation Bracket, Carrier Bearing Drop Bracket, Front Correction Pads, JL/JT Rubicon No Limits Sway Bar Links that allow 60* of misalignment, which will allow full movement of the axle without the potential of binding in the sway bar links, which would limit travel. The spring will soon be replaced with Synergy, Rock Krawler, or Evo Plush ride. The Clayton springs, I think, are great for overlanding with a heavy load, but I need both a Rock Crawler/Mud Pit Driving, and the ability to ride 80 mph on the highway without swaying all over the place and getting rattled to death by the springs. Just my opinion after running the Clayton 3.5 Overland kit. The Rock Krawler Parts have made a huge difference in the ride quality.

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