Cold Start Issues

[Adventure_JTRD]

Update for those who are curious, the dealer checked it out today and was unable to replicate the noise/clatter that occurred and i was able to get video of. Which has always been the case since the noise is never constant. They checked the code and after their troubleshooting, they are proposing to replace the fuel rail sensor. But of course, the sensor apparently falls under the 3year/36k mile basic warranty and not the 100k mile powertrain warranty. And they want $1,400 for the labor and part.

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[DylanM]

While the sensor isn't cheap (approx $450 list), that job is in no way worth $1400 in my opinion. We're talking almost $1k just for labour there for what I'm reading shouldn't be more than one hour of work, tops. Not to mention, the way I read the warranty booklet, it should be covered under the 5/100 powertrain warranty.

 

[Rusty PW]

While the sensor isn't cheap (approx $450 list), that job is in no way worth $1400 in my opinion. We're talking almost $1k just for labour there for what I'm reading shouldn't be more than one hour of work, tops. Not to mention, the way I read the warranty booklet, it should be covered under the 5/100 powertrain warranty.

That's the same sensor that the Banks Derringer plugs into.

 

[Adventure_JTRD]

While the sensor isn't cheap (approx $450 list), that job is in no way worth $1400 in my opinion. We're talking almost $1k just for labour there for what I'm reading shouldn't be more than one hour of work, tops. Not to mention, the way I read the warranty booklet, it should be covered under the 5/100 powertrain warranty.

i was able to get the dealer to submit for a goodwill warranty cover and just have to pay $130 deductible now. Better than paying $1400, but still curious why this wouldn't be covered by the 100k mile powertrain warranty.

Part is about a week out, and hoping that this resolves the issue.

 

[ALT2870]

Probably just trying to get theirs. Lots of dealers hate warranty work simply because FCA is a pain to deal with. I've heard some just eat the cost because it's not worth the hours of dealing with them.

 

[Rocksalt]

I dont think the op needs a block heater... something else at issue.
I have owned 4 jeeps.. no block heaters... outside at even -42 actual temp... all started up

 

[Rusty PW]

I dont think the op needs a block heater... something else at issue.
I have owned 4 jeeps.. no block heaters... outside at even -42 actual temp... all started up

Any of them diesels?

 

[Adventure_JTRD]

I dont think the op needs a block heater... something else at issue.
I have owned 4 jeeps.. no block heaters... outside at even -42 actual temp... all started up

It only gets into the low 30s overnight where i am at. And never really freezes. But it is strange that these issue with this jeep only happen when the weather is cold or rainy.

Even the service manager didn't know what could be causing and confirmed with him that it has happened even out of state with completely different diesel. So, we shall see if this fixes the issues or not.

 

[BuckeyeButch]

30-40 degrees F is NOT cold for a diesel. My 1st diesel was a new 93 7.3 ford, it never was plugged in until temps got below 0.
My 04 Duramax started at -5. my 22 Duramax has never been plugged in as well as my 21 3.0 Gladiator. These newer diesels aren't as coldblooded as the older diesels. As for warmups, when temps get below 30 I start them up and fortunately my road allows me to idle out a mile before driving them normal

 

[Rusty PW]

30-40 degrees F is NOT cold for a diesel. My 1st diesel was a new 93 7.3 ford, it never was plugged in until temps got below 0.
My 04 Duramax started at -5. my 22 Duramax has never been plugged in as well as my 21 3.0 Gladiator. These newer diesels aren't as coldblooded as the older diesels. As for warmups, when temps get below 30 I start them up and fortunately my road allows me to idle out a mile before driving them normal

I plug mine in so that "I" have heat.

 

[Mr._Bill]

I plug mine in so that "I" have heat.

That's why I plugged in my Duramax. I found that it needed at least four hours to keep from having temperature mismatch errors in the block.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

30-40 degrees F is NOT cold for a diesel. My 1st diesel was a new 93 7.3 ford, it never was plugged in until temps got below 0.
My 04 Duramax started at -5. my 22 Duramax has never been plugged in as well as my 21 3.0 Gladiator. These newer diesels aren't as coldblooded as the older diesels. As for warmups, when temps get below 30 I start them up and fortunately my road allows me to idle out a mile before driving them normal

I both agree and disagree to some extent.......... having owned and operated a large variety of diesel farm equipment years ago - John Deeres hated temps below 30 (F). Better have the ether can in place. IH, not as bad until it dropped to 20 or below, then ether was your friend. I used block heaters and kept them plugged in during our winter months because of the 3 point blade, and PTO/3 point snow blower. Diesel tractors take a horrible long time to warm up and you FROZE in that cab. They just don't run hot, at least mine did.
My Case tractors were a bit better - still you wanted good batteries (plural) and try to keep them inside and warm where possible.
But the worst were when I helped out neighbors with JD equipment. Man, what a pain. And once started they smoked and loped and took a couple of minutes to come out of it before you could drive them away.

OK, so I'm comparing farm equipment of the 1980s to truck diesels of the 2000s, so maybe I'm the one blowing smoke!

 

[Adventure_JTRD]

So after waiting for the sensor to arrive and the jeep sitting at the dealer for over a week. They were able to finally experience the rattle and rough idle that I have been reporting for a while. They did some more investigation and everything checked out ok. However, they noted that there was an abnormal smell in the fuel". They pulled a sample and said that they found excessive amount of bio/water in the fuel.

It's strange because I only get diesel at one station (unless I am out of town) and use EDT on every fill up. And the water in fuel indicator has never gone off, which if they are saying the amount is excessive in their sample, the light should have triggered.

 

[DylanM]

And if they can pin the cause on contaminated fuel, then the warranty doesn't cover repair costs.... how convenient for them.

 

[rharr]

And if they can pin the cause on contaminated fuel, then the warranty doesn't cover repair costs.... how convenient for them.

It's almost like you have to sample the fuel yourself before you go in for work. The bad fuel excuse seems like a convenient excuse for them to not pursue warranty work.

The whole thing is silly to reject on "bad" fuel, what's the point of the fuel separator/filter then? Isn't it there to stop water ingestion and contaminates?

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