Cutting and welding differential for caster

[JTdiRtyD]

shoot... 60mph in 4 wheel is a common winter occurrence in MN lol

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[ShadowsPapa]

shoot... 60mph in 4 wheel is a common winter occurrence in MN lol

Same here - done it many times. If you don't keep up some speed, you will get killed by the semis around here - I80/I35 means at times over half the traffic you see is fast moving trucks. Almost every winter accident on I80 east of me is semi-related.

 

[fourfa]

Yikes

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...on-setup-by-epic-adventure-outfitters.135534/

Sounds like a lot of confusion between the JK and JL/JT replacement joints

 

[Zachanadandy]

shoot... 60mph in 4 wheel is a common winter occurrence in MN lol

If you're still rolling 60 you don't need 4wd. Stopping and steering won't happen if the road is slick enough that you can't maintain speed with that kind of momentum in 2wd.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Same here - done it many times. If you don't keep up some speed, you will get killed by the semis around here - I80/I35 means at times over half the traffic you see is fast moving trucks. Almost every winter accident on I80 east of me is semi-related.

Yup.

Everyone always says if the roads are bad enough for 4x4 then you shouldn't be going that fast, but sometimes the roads are fine for those speeds but still enough for rwd with light rear ends to easily kick out. Especially with an AT or AS tire.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

If you're still rolling 60 you don't need 4wd. Stopping and steering won't happen if the road is slick enough that you can't maintain speed with that kind of momentum in 2wd.

Not always true. Snow can give great traction on the highways, but the light rear ends of smaller pickups can still cause you to easily kick the rear. In those cases 4x4 keeps you on the road and keeps you straight. In 2wd you're doing 30 while everyone else is doing 60, you are now the hazard.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not always true. Snow can give great traction on the highways, but the light rear ends of smaller pickups can still cause you to easily kick the rear. In those cases 4x4 keeps you on the road and keeps you straight. In 2wd you're doing 30 while everyone else is doing 60, you are now the hazard.

Maybe only people who have lived it for over 50 years, commuted in it, and driven all sorts of cars and trucks in it really understand. You have to experience it. Crawling on the highway is a hazard as well as going too fast. We're not talking keeping up speed limits, we're talking being safe. It absolutely helps with steering - my former father in law did a great demonstration in their 4x4 IH vehicle years ago. He took it out where there was no traffic, but snow and snow pack (this was northern Iowa, not far from MN) and purposely put it into a bit of a slide in 2 wheel drive - then did the same thing in 4 wheel drive and when he was starting to lose steering, he accelerated a bit and the thing pulled itself straight. The front wheels pulled the rear and he regained steering control.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Maybe only people who have lived it for over 50 years, commuted in it, and driven all sorts of cars and trucks in it really understand. You have to experience it. Crawling on the highway is a hazard as well as going too fast. We're not talking keeping up speed limits, we're talking being safe. It absolutely helps with steering - my former father in law did a great demonstration in their 4x4 IH vehicle years ago. He took it out where there was no traffic, but snow and snow pack (this was northern Iowa, not far from MN) and purposely put it into a bit of a slide in 2 wheel drive - then did the same thing in 4 wheel drive and when he was starting to lose steering, he accelerated a bit and the thing pulled itself straight. The front wheels pulled the rear and he regained steering control.

This is exactly why Subarus are so dang popular in the PNW.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Maybe only people who have lived it for over 50 years, commuted in it, and driven all sorts of cars and trucks in it really understand. You have to experience it.

This right here. Sure, places like Cali, Utah, Colorado etc still get winter conditions, but not like we do in the midwest. I've done plenty of winter driving in those other states and its different for sure, and most of the time the conditions do warrant slower driving because it's usually mountainous or combined with freezing rain and ice, whereas midwest conditions are just different.

I personally love winter driving. I'm confident and know my abilities. I don't trust other drivers though.

 

[Splenda]

slight vibration…. But I want things perfect. Not removing the lift as that would take my daily driver out for 2 days as well as I sold the stock rubicon arms/ parts. I get the FAD is a weak point but it already has the fad axles and everything else that comes along with it minus the actuator. So there is no difference. Love the way it wheels with the 3.5 lift and 38’s and 5.13’s. Totally worth it. Just dialing it in. Yes the plan down the road is gonna be a 392 and Dana 60’s. With hydraulic steering but that’s all 5 yrs down the road. Solid advice though

I know exactly the vibration you're referring to. Mine got better after I adjusted my front control arm length, but the best way to describe it is as a pulsating low hum that sort of feels like these old toys that we all had as kids.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Maybe only people who have lived it for over 50 years, commuted in it, and driven all sorts of cars and trucks in it really understand. You have to experience it. Crawling on the highway is a hazard as well as going too fast. We're not talking keeping up speed limits, we're talking being safe. It absolutely helps with steering - my former father in law did a great demonstration in their 4x4 IH vehicle years ago. He took it out where there was no traffic, but snow and snow pack (this was northern Iowa, not far from MN) and purposely put it into a bit of a slide in 2 wheel drive - then did the same thing in 4 wheel drive and when he was starting to lose steering, he accelerated a bit and the thing pulled itself straight. The front wheels pulled the rear and he regained steering control.

Even if that's your primary use, either don't lift it 3.5" and put long travel shocks on so you can keep the rzeppa joint or just accept that you'll have a bit of driveline vibes in the winter? For the vast majority it's just not a common enough occurrence for it to matter. Sure you could go high pinion 60 just so you can cruise freeway speeds with a big lift in 4wd if it bothers you.

 

[CrazyCooter]

We still don't even know IF the aftermarket shaft is even required. I asked for the shock length and he gave me the make/model?

A quick search nets an AI result of:
Falcon 3.5" Lift Shock Extended Lengths:
Front 28.4"
Rear 32.3"

No aftermarket shaft is required for 28.4"?

 

[Supazuk]

Your description of the double cardan proper geometry is wrong. The pinion should be pointed up at the transfer case output. This is where the cut and turn comes into play and the source of the OPs vibration. The more you lift the more the pinion needs rolled upwards. The problem there is rolling the pinion up reduces caster. With 3"+ of lift the caster will likely end up at 1 or 2⁰ and the thing would be undrivable. If there was an aftermarket high angle rzeppa shaft then you could set the pinion at 0⁰ and have shot 6⁰ of caster. Even with a lunchbox locker if you still have the FAD your front shaft shouldn't spin as there's no load so your side gears should be disengaged. If you still have the stock front shaft the rzeppa is allowing you to run enough caster even if the shaft is spinning.

that is exactly what I meant, it did not convey my intent The drive shaft at the pinion should point to the T-case resulting in zero reference angle to the driveshaft not set at zero from the ground

In reference to lunch box locker the shaft will spin the drive shaft even with the fad disconnected as there is no load on the drive shaft from the t-case so the side gear stays engadged on the live axle shaft

 

[Zachanadandy]

that is exactly what i said the drive shaft at the pinion should have zero angle

The wording of the pinion at 0⁰ made it sound like it should be parallel to the ground. That's why I posted the picture for clarification. Pointed at the tcase/0 angle with the driveshaft. Semantics but same/same.

 

[Supazuk]

The wording of the pinion at 0⁰ made it sound like it should be parallel to the ground. That's why I posted the picture for clarification. Pointed at the tcase/0 angle with the driveshaft. Semantics but same/same.

that's why i am going to edit the original post the link information was correct

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