Does Model Year Matter? Any to avoid yet?

[DylanM]

Based on my own informal summary of the posts on this site, it seems the Gladiator model years to avoid are 2020 and up.

The ‘62 through ‘71 model years are exceptionally reliable, based solely on the absence of technical complaints across the forum.

Going strictly off of internet forums, there hasn't been a single reliable vehicle made since Nixon took office.

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[Dave-in-RI]

Going strictly off of internet forums, there hasn't been a single reliable vehicle made since Nixon took office.

I heard a throaty engine coming down my street yesterday (highly unusual here) and looked out the window just in time to see a sweet, mint looking, purposefully dull red early 70s Commando with the cj-style grille and that classy sloping rear and, wearing a full black soft top and chrome dome hub caps. A thing of beauty for all the senses!

 

[OHJeeper]

I heard a throaty engine coming down my street yesterday (highly unusual here) and looked out the window just in time to see a sweet, mint looking, purposefully dull red early 70s Commando with the cj-style grille and that classy sloping rear and, wearing a full black soft top and chrome dome hub caps. A thing of beauty for all the senses!

These days, that guy probably paid over $100k for that ride.

 

[Dave-in-RI]

These days, that guy probably paid over $100k for that ride.

Right?? The other day at a light I was beside a mint looking very old & British-style Land Rover that didn’t make a sound. It had been converted to fully electric, and I could see painted disc brakes etc., but I don’t think it was a tub / kit. Had me thinking maybe I could do similar for an old Commando or Scrambler (or a 75 F-250) and still come out ahead. (I only need a local ride)

 

[OHJeeper]

Right?? The other day at a light I was beside a mint looking very old & British-style Land Rover that didn’t make a sound. It had been converted to fully electric, and I could see painted disc brakes etc., but I don’t think it was a tub / kit. Had me thinking maybe I could do similar for an old Commando or Scrambler (or a 75 F-250) and still come out ahead. (I only need a local ride)

There are so many "classic" rides I want to rebuild, but unfortunately the demand is so high for these that even a barn rescue bronco frame will set you back $20k at least. Same for Scouts, Defenders, FJ's, etc...

 

[RHRT]

33,256 on our 2022 JTW no problems.

 

[Delhux]

Going strictly off of internet forums, there hasn't been a single reliable vehicle made since Nixon took office.

 

[Dave-in-RI]

100%

It was like these made into one:

 

[guntrust]

The 2020s are the most notorious for valve train issues in the gladiators. Also had leaky axle seals (spread in to later years as well) and the rubicons of that time frame couldn't lock the rear locker in 4h with out a software update. Not a high probability of problems either way but I'd personally avoid the 2020 unless it was an absolutely screaming deal vs a 21.

I have a 2019-built (one of the first) 2020 model JTR and to my knowledge the software update to get rear lockers working in 4H did not apply to mine, so that is a negative possibly. Still no lockers in 4H. Otherwise, zero issues.

 

[bleda2002]

I have a 2019-built (one of the first) 2020 model JTR and to my knowledge the software update to get rear lockers working in 4H did not apply to mine, so that is a negative possibly. Still no lockers in 4H. Otherwise, zero issues.

I thought some people were able to get it applied, perhaps its only some 2020's that could get it updated (or i'm just fully wrong here which is also possible). Either way, with a rubicon I recommend a tazer just for sway kill alone to allow for disconnected swaybars at any speed so its not a huge deal.

 

[SRO]

I bought a new '22 Rubicon in January of '23. I bought it because I got a really good deal. I didn't do a lot of forum searching prior to my purchase because I'm not particularly worried about the pentastar/manual combo (even with the recall on the manual it doesn't phase me much). After that I started looking at forums and THEN got some of the worries OP has. If you start really digging down, you can't pin it down to model years. It's more like batches within a year where they had to find alternate parts. I am not dismissing the OPs concerns, but the question is a fool's errand IMHO. I can't remember the specific examples but there are 'hidden' TSBs for issues narrow enough to be build dates January through March 17th or something like that. Just buy one with a warranty. I've met enough people with gladiators now that I feel confident saying they are generally reliable with some potential quirks.

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Based on everything I've seen on here and the known changes that have taken place via TSB's, design changes, etc., I would say the best trouble-free buys would be any later '22 and up gas models.

Yes I know, many folks are doing fine with their 2020, 2021, diesel, 100k mile, etc. etc. etc. Just looking objectively at things like:

-Axle leaks (I think this was a 2021 issue)
-steering boxes (2020s)
-Fuel Pumps (all diesels)
-paint (seems to be pre-22 models)
-addition of the extra enforcement on the passenger side frame (late '22 and up got this)
-FAD skid plate (I don't think early non-rubis got this but now I think it's on everything starting in 22?)
-standard 7" radio screen (21 and up?)

There are other things, but this list, while small, made me lean towards a late '22 and up when I purchased and ultimately lead to the purchase of my '23.

Hope that helps.

 

[Dave-in-RI]

Thank you.

 

[sharpsicle]

I think at this point you're starting to see that if you pick enough at any model or year, you'll find "reasons" not to buy it. But no one is inherently worse than the other. Just different.

 

[guntrust]

Based on everything I've seen on here and the known changes that have taken place via TSB's, design changes, etc., I would say the best trouble-free buys would be any later '22 and up gas models.

Yes I know, many folks are doing fine with their 2020, 2021, diesel, 100k mile, etc. etc. etc. Just looking objectively at things like:

-Axle leaks (I think this was a 2021 issue)
-steering boxes (2020s)
-Fuel Pumps (all diesels)
-paint (seems to be pre-22 models)
-addition of the extra enforcement on the passenger side frame (late '22 and up got this)
-FAD skid plate (I don't think early non-rubis got this but now I think it's on everything starting in 22?)
-standard 7" radio screen (21 and up?)

There are other things, but this list, while small, made me lean towards a late '22 and up when I purchased and ultimately lead to the purchase of my '23.

Hope that helps.

I forgot about that steering box issue. Dealer fixed it with some kind of steering upgrade. Handling also improved after lift.

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