Engine oil -- what weight and brand do others use?

[ShadowsPapa]

He´s running 5w20 in his Pentastar (Chrysler 300) and did from Day 1. At 100 degrees Centigrade, it is the same viscosity as 0w20.

The difference is cold (32) weather. Otherwise, the 20 applies to 212 degrees (100c)
So for people like me who get out into the truck at 0(f) and start it, I want the oil to move quickly into the critical parts.
However, like I posted - there's often some overlap. There are some oils that are within that spec, but are either a lot thinner or thicker than other oils in the same viscosity class.
one brand's 0w20 isn't the same as another brand's 0w20 - but it's normally not enough to fuss with or make a big deal of. I only point it out because people are getting all goofy over it.

Look at the clean reports coming back from Blackstone - on 0w20 oils.
As long as it's a quality oil, well rated with an ability to withstand high pressures (not all are, even some favorite brands suck at actual protection of things like cams and lifters)
I stick with a handful of oils and should never have a problem caused by OIL.

As far as Walmart brands - not for me. They are rated too far below the better oils and I just can't see saving 5 bucks to get something that doesn't offer the cam and rocker/follower protection.

#180 5W30 Walmart Supertech, API SN, dexos 1 gen 2 approved, synthetic, silver gray bottle = 84,570 psi
#237 on the list - 5W30 Walmart Supertech, API SN, conventional, blue bottle = 72,521 psi

Top oils can handle 100-150 psi so why would I settle?

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[DanW]

The difference is cold (32) weather. Otherwise, the 20 applies to 212 degrees (100c)
So for people like me who get out into the truck at 0(f) and start it, I want the oil to move quickly into the critical parts.
However, like I posted - there's often some overlap. There are some oils that are within that spec, but are either a lot thinner or thicker than other oils in the same viscosity class.
one brand's 0w20 isn't the same as another brand's 0w20 - but it's normally not enough to fuss with or make a big deal of. I only point it out because people are getting all goofy over it.

Look at the clean reports coming back from Blackstone - on 0w20 oils.
As long as it's a quality oil, well rated with an ability to withstand high pressures (not all are, even some favorite brands suck at actual protection of things like cams and lifters)
I stick with a handful of oils and should never have a problem caused by OIL.

As far as Walmart brands - not for me. They are rated too far below the better oils and I just can't see saving 5 bucks to get something that doesn't offer the cam and rocker/follower protection.

#180 5W30 Walmart Supertech, API SN, dexos 1 gen 2 approved, synthetic, silver gray bottle = 84,570 psi
#237 on the list - 5W30 Walmart Supertech, API SN, conventional, blue bottle = 72,521 psi

Top oils can handle 100-150 psi so why would I settle?

Yep, I agree with you probably 99%.

You may be right about the Supertech, but I´ve never ever seen a bad UOA posted from it. It has a very good rep on Bitog and the newest meet API SP/GF6, so they have to be stout. I´ve run the 5w20 SN in my JK and the UOA looked as good as any after a 6k run. I even ran the SN 5w30 for a 10k run in a Ford Transit Ecoboost and it had a great UOÄ, too. That Ecoboost was as hard on oil as anything out there. Certainly MUCH harder on it than any Pentastar. Most Supertech, at least in my area, is made by Warren Distribution. They have a very good rep. I´ve seen zero evidence on Bitog of it being anything but a good oil. But my baby still gets Mobil 1 EP.

But I´m like you in that I like to run major brands, mainly Mobil 1. I have done one OCI of Havoline Pro DS 0w20 (Chevron) and a couple with Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20. I haven´t run it but I like Valvoline (I have a jug waiting on deck for either JK or JL duty) and Pennzoil Platinum. I just don´t like the relatively low flash point on the PP. (204 C). The Shell Rotella beats it there.

Anyway, all the PDF´s I´ve seen of the major brands are pretty close in the KV at 100 degrees. I haven´t see outliers like we´ve seen in the 5w30´s.

I like what you are doing and would be thrilled knowing it if I ever bought that Gladiator off you, even with high miles.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You may be right about the Supertech, but I´ve never ever seen a bad UOA posted from it.

I guess I didn't really convey a complete thought (yet again)

I can't say it's bad, can't say it will do damage, can't say if you use it you will have trouble.
For a lot of engines and how a lot of them are used - could be just fine. Some don't need what other oils offer. And in a given engine, you could use an "ok" oil and a "best of the best" oil and come out with similar results - and if you change oil more frequently, be just fine.
I guess I'm just often "if 5 nails will hold it, 7 are better" - and like having a lot of padding in some areas.

In the end, I think we're on the same pages. Just that with my "condition" - accessing and explaining what I know can be extremely difficult at times.
It's why they say I'm great at math, but I struggled with it in HS - unable to "show my work" even if I had the correct answer.

Most Supertech, at least in my area, is made by Warren Distribution.

I seem to recall seeing that in some of the test data I've seen over the years. Can't imagine it's different in different parts of the country.......

I like what you are doing and would be thrilled knowing it if I ever bought that Gladiator off you, even with high miles.

You and the dealer I've bought our last Jeeps from.
He said our vehicles are the type they go through the expense and process of making a certified used vehicle.
I goof now and then, and I keep learning............ my goal is to never let a mistake I make cost anyone else.

 

[Hootbro]

I have never been loyal to any brand of oil and for the most part, just buy whatever is cheapest in cost that meets the current API pec, manufacturer spec and owners manual grade weight call out (usually but not always). Most times that is whatever oil is on sale, clearance or heavily rebated.

When I have to pay full bill for a jug of oil, 99% of the time, I grab the Walmart Supertech branded oil. Over the years, I have seen Supertech oil made by Warren Distribution, Citgo and even Exxon/Mobil but 95% of the time, it is usually Warrant Distribution I have seen on shelves.

In over 35+ years of changing my own oil and when I have grabbed and used the occasional jug of Supertech, I have never had any problems with it or cause for concern. This also included more than a handful of oil analysis that showed excellent results overall. Only issue any of those reports showed was on a couple where the expected flashpoint results were just out of range but that was due to fuel dilution of over 1% of more and had that with other name brands also and this is pre API SN+ spec oils that deal with fuel dilution more heavily with DI engines being more prevalent.

In my opinion, starting with the API SL spec oils around 2001 and subsequent API revisions to current API SP spec oil are first class oils regardless of brand if they are licensed for it and carry the API Donut label on the bottles.

People can debate the red cunt hairs of difference this or that oil brand has over another, but 99.9% of us are never driving in those margins and if one is, they then need to looking at the boutique oils that are formulated for that type of driving.

Following current API Spec, Manufacturers Spec and recommended viscosity grade, oil brand is way less important to the point of being insignificant and more of a social conditioning confirmation bias installed from marketing and group thinking.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I wouldn't say I was "brand loyal" - for each area of need, I have favorites, but I also don't "insist" that's all I should use for that specific area.
Another reason is that over the years of "study", I've found that each "brand" has an area where they are quite good, among the best in that area, but in some other viscosity or product area, they aren't very good. Oil vs. hypoid lube is one example. A company I know of makes a very good, respected, quality product in certain viscosities of engine oil, however, in hypoid lube, it's not good at all. For manual transmissions, I've found some companies make excellent products that meet or exceed specs over a broad range, and a company that makes great engine oil - I'd not use their MT lubes.
You'll find on my shelves anything from Valvoline, to TropArtic, Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Renewable Lubricants and more.
Being "too brand loyal' can make you miss out on something new or better, and sometimes that favorite brand stumbles while another sprints past them.

I didn't dig back, but a couple of bottles on this shelf look suspiciously like they came from Walmart Yeah, I've used their products. And yes, in a rather high compression performance engine.

This stuff is amazingly "slick". I had to readjust the carburetors on my 360 after using this for a while - idle speed climbed and even with the cam it's got, idle smoothed out a bit. Gee, did I have sticky lifters?

And this just went into my sort of built up 4.0
I've used it in that engine since the very first time it was fired up. I drove it out of my shop with this oil (well, not THIS oil, it's been changed a few times since). I did use the biosyn in it a couple of years ago for kicks then decided heck, it was broke in on Mobil 1, it's not got any oil leaks, it doesn't "burn" any between changes, keep going. It's still a top rated oil. And since the car sits a lot, I don't mind the extended use category, either. It will never go 20,000 miles LOL heck no, but it may sit a few months during the winter so it's good to have an oil that can handle that. (Interesting that most of my shop cabinets and stands are - Gladiator.......)

So, brand loyal? I have favorites but hope I'm not brand loyal to a fault!?!

Only issue any of those reports showed was on a couple where the expected flashpoint results were just out of range but that was due to fuel dilution of over 1% of more and had that with other name brands also and this is pre API SN+ spec oils that deal with fuel dilution more heavily with DI engines being more prevalent.

I know YOU know, but for the thousands of lurkers-
DI (direct injected) engines should have oil changed more often exactly for the reason you mention.
Further, if you have a flex fuel engine and run E85, cut the oil change interval recommendations in half. If it says 10,000 miles and you use E85, go 5,000 miles.
Some oils are better at handling DI engines than others but don't push your luck.

 

[DanW]

I have never been loyal to any brand of oil and for the most part, just buy whatever is cheapest in cost that meets the current API pec, manufacturer spec and owners manual grade weight call out (usually but not always). Most times that is whatever oil is on sale, clearance or heavily rebated.

When I have to pay full bill for a jug of oil, 99% of the time, I grab the Walmart Supertech branded oil. Over the years, I have seen Supertech oil made by Warren Distribution, Citgo and even Exxon/Mobil but 95% of the time, it is usually Warrant Distribution I have seen on shelves.

In over 35+ years of changing my own oil and when I have grabbed and used the occasional jug of Supertech, I have never had any problems with it or cause for concern. This also included more than a handful of oil analysis that showed excellent results overall. Only issue any of those reports showed was on a couple where the expected flashpoint results were just out of range but that was due to fuel dilution of over 1% of more and had that with other name brands also and this is pre API SN+ spec oils that deal with fuel dilution more heavily with DI engines being more prevalent.

In my opinion, starting with the API SL spec oils around 2001 and subsequent API revisions to current API SP spec oil are first class oils regardless of brand if they are licensed for it and carry the API Donut label on the bottles.

People can debate the red cunt hairs of difference this or that oil brand has over another, but 99.9% of us are never driving in those margins and if one is, they then need to looking at the boutique oils that are formulated for that type of driving.

Following current API Spec, Manufacturers Spec and recommended viscosity grade, oil brand is way less important to the point of being insignificant and more of a social conditioning confirmation bias installed from marketing and group thinking.

Hahahaha!!!!!!!! You are the first I´ve heard outside of my family to use the RCH as a standard of measurement! Clearly, it is more precise than just a CH. My grandpa once said, ¨move that over just an RCH.¨ We asked and he defined it. I asked why red? He said, ¨Thatś the only color I´ve ever seen!¨ My grandma was a redhead!

 

[DanW]

I run mostly EP 0w20 Mobil 1. I ran it because it had a pretty high dose of PAO in the formula, but it´s been reduced recently, although still there in a decent amount, last I checked. Anyway, it appealed to me because it had a sky-high flash point and a super low pour point. Both limits that I´ll never remotely test. But I like it. I do mostly 5k OCI´s on my 3.6 but I´ve run it out to 8k and the UOA was excellent. I just feel better at 5k.

I´m hopefully purchasing a 2007 C6 Corvette Monday. It has 53k on it. It will get nothing but M1 EP 5w30. I won´t be taking it to the track, just brisk touring with very occasional bursts of all she´s got. So no need for the 15w40 recommended for the track.

At the end of the day. a well cared for 3.6 Pentastar with a good oil should go half a million miles. That´s very comforting. I really love this engine. But I can´t wait to jam my foot into that LS2. I´m very glad neither are DI.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For me the interests in the flashpoint of new engine oil is two-fold: for a baseline for later tests of the used oil, also a lower flash point can mean the onset of thermal breakdown will occur at a lower temperatures.
Lower flashpoint means it will start to vaporize, losing the high parts, leaving sludge and goo behind.

Know the FP of your new oil, and if it's a lot lower when tested, it's contaminated (or otherwise compromised) likely with fuel and if it's a lot higher, then it's reached thermal breakdown and the lighter parts, typically the protective chemistry of the oil, have vaporized leaving sludges, and lowered protection. (the lab should tell you that)
If it's low, then the oil will reach vaporization sooner, and break down sooner.
People may say yeah, but that flash point is clear up in the 400s! My oil will never reach that!
That's the point at which it releases vapors that can be easily ignited - it starts to break down and vaporize hundreds of degrees below that - into the upper 200s and around 300 - and your oil does reach that due to shear (in the crank journals) and at the back side of the pistons, where the oil is sprayed against the piston - and those small droplets heat FAST, absorbing a lot of heat from pistons that can be over 600 degrees and that means those oil droplets may have already reached the point of losing the high parts - vaporization. (boundary layer of unburned gases protects the pistons from melting so chamber temps can be over 1,000 degrees)
So there's two reasons to watch that number - baseline for later lab testing, and, to avoid the onset of breakdown that can happen in the 250-310 degree range or so (it varies - better oils are up around 300, cheap stuff is around 260 or so)

 

[JTDay]

@DanW Know the PAO content of the 0w20 Mobil 1 currently? At one point it was thought to be around 70% but I noticed the current SDS for that oil shows lower now. I'm running the Valvoline EP 0w20 currently and will probably continue to use that. If I'm reading the SDS correctly, it appears that the "petroleum distillates, heavy paraffinic" nomenclature in section 3 reveals that this is a grp 3 base oil. For some reason I was thinking that it was GTL.

 

[DanW]

@DanW Know the PAO content of the 0w20 Mobil 1 currently? At one point it was thought to be around 70% but I noticed the current SDS for that oil shows lower now. I'm running the Valvoline EP 0w20 currently and will probably continue to use that. If I'm reading the SDS correctly, it appears that the "petroleum distillates, heavy paraffinic" nomenclature in section 3 reveals that this is a grp 3 base oil. For some reason I was thinking that it was GTL.

Looks like 30% now. That's still higher than any I've found and is good, considering all the other stuff that goes in there.

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