Front sway bar end links, quick disconnects

[just_another_guy]

I did it! Went 1/2 inch shorter and it is pretty damn straight. I left the Quick Disco pin on the outside and really had to shorten the Link. About the same as driver side. I can take the disco off by hand. Still have to push it on with a lever but I can live with it. Got the steering wheel perfect! Drove around and checked everything and all is well. No pull left or right. Went up to 80 MPH still good, no vibration or wiggle.

Now next steps.
1.) My sway bar at rest is at a 29 degree angle??? That cant be right, right? Maybe need shorter Quick discos soon?
2.) To be safe get an alignment now I assume?

You should have flipped the pin to the inside like everyone suggested. I have a stock gladiator with these disconnects and can tell you the pin needs to face inward to line up properly.

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[Oneshotlucky]

You should have flipped the pin to the inside like everyone suggested. I have a stock gladiator with these disconnects and can tell you the pin needs to face inward to line up properly.

I will do that too!

 

[OHJeeper]

2.) To be safe get an alignment now I assume?

First off: congrats!

As far as the alignment, they can help really "dial in" the track bar and drag link but that's the only adjustment they can make.

Camber is fixed on these axles and caster can only be corrected with adjustable control arms.

As far as the sway bar angle, you'll want to shorten those links. More than single-digit degrees is too much. Doesn't have to be perfect, but 29° is too much.

 

[Lunentucker]

Caster can be corrected with Geometry correction brackets, and they'll actually do a better job of it than adjustable control arms, because they get the control arms back to parallel with the ground. That helps to transfer road energy up into the shocks and springs and not back into the frame via the control arms.
I believe the general consensus here is that the Gladiator is happy with a positive caster around 5-6, which is out of factory spec just slightly.

FFS flip the stud

 

[OHJeeper]

Caster can be corrected with Geometry correction brackets, and they'll actually do a better job of it than adjustable control arms, because they get the control arms back to parallel with the ground. That helps to transfer road energy up into the shocks and springs and not back into the frame via the control arms.
I believe the general consensus here is that the Gladiator is happy with a positive caster around 5-6, which is out of factory spec just slightly.

FFS flip the stud

Agreed on the geometry correction brackets, except depending on the OP's off-roading habits. The brackets can get stuck on rocks, etc, whereas the CA's tend to act more like skid plates or rock rails. I have the geo brackets on my daughter's JK and they do work VERY well to control front suspension feedback on her 2" lift.

 

[OHJeeper]

FFS flip the stud

YES

 

[Jimsteen]

Check this out!

The left side is bolted too the axle the right has a 2in riser. Take it out and bolt it to the axle.

 

[Oneshotlucky]

Yeah need to shorten your front track bar. You can see the spring going sideways too which tells me the axle is sitting to the right.

edit... Ok so here's the kicker... the instructions show the installation like you have it installed with the peg facing outwards. The website for the part shows it the other way where it would be pointing inward. When I installed mine, I did it as you did and it looked off as the driver side disco was angled inward a little at the bottom. When I flipped the peg, they both match now.

You still need to re-center your axle but you might also need to flip the peg for the disco. I would have it however it matches the other side.

Okay flipped the peg all lines up. Question Am I OCD? My axle after I shifted it over ends up being 1/4 off to the driver’s side? Truck rides fine btw! Anyway 1/4 inch? Should I tinker more with it or leave it alone now?? Will that little difference cause any issues??

 

[Orange01z28]

Check this out!

That's about what my Teraflex set up looks like with the angles

No problems at all after tens of thousands of miles

I just have to keep it lubed or it gets clunky

 

[Oneshotlucky]

Maybe the track bar is too long and pushing the axle toward the passenger side. As long as nothing is bent I'd try and shorten the track bar a little and put some miles on it to try and get the axle centered before swapping anything. I agree with you completely - if that's truly the axle's resting state, new end links will get worn out quick.

Am I OCD? I did center the axle myself after all. I have since had it checked by off road shop. It now sits a 1/4 inch to driver side. Should I adjust it anymore? Ride is fine, alignment is fine, no steering issues, springs are straight, quick disconnects are good now. If I leave it alone will I have issues down the road or on the trail??

 

[22_Sarge_Sport]

Most people couldn't get it to 1/4" with professional tools. If you have the right parts and have them assembled correctly, which seems to be a big "if", a 1/4" is nothing. Check all your torque specs and go get after it.

 

[Oneshotlucky]

You need to go full droop to know for sure and the MC lift is known to droop. You want just enough angle to it to ensure it doesn't invert.

1. Jack the truck at the frame so the entire front is hanging
2. Draw an imaginary line in your mind extending the endlink on the swaybar side
3. Set your swaybar link length so that the angle between that imaginary line and the swaybar is around 10-15 degrees.

If as a result of this your bar is pointing downward, I would go level to frame. If it's pointing upward then leave it as is. Mine is pointing a good ways upward with the 3.5" MC lift and springs.

As for the track bar, that's a good way to get in trouble if you don't know what you're doing. You have to disconnect the MC design to adjust (good because it doesn't slip over time like a sleeve can) but it will fight you getting it back in. There's some easy tricks involving tie down straps and other things but I'd watch videos and be sure you're ready for that.

Quick question - I was able to get my axle centered better. went from 1.62 in on passenger side now it sits 1/4 inch to driver side. Closer now! Should I just leave it alone now? Ride is good, alignment is good, steering wheel is straight, lined up with the rear. Will a 1/4 inch affect anything or cause wear someplace?

 

[Lunentucker]

1/4" won't affect anything other than tire poke. But if it bothers you enough to ask the same question three times, then by all means, go ahead and keep working on it until you get it zeroed.

 

[LostWoods]

Quick question - I was able to get my axle centered better. went from 1.62 in on passenger side now it sits 1/4 inch to driver side. Closer now! Should I just leave it alone now? Ride is good, alignment is good, steering wheel is straight, lined up with the rear. Will a 1/4 inch affect anything or cause wear someplace?

You'll see way more than that cycling the suspension down the road so I'd probably leave it. I'm just as much a perfectionist now as I was when I turned wrenches so I'd probably get it perfect but really it's not going to be noticeable.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Can someone tell me if the REAR track bar for the DIESEL is the same as the one on the GASSER ? thanks

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