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Gears for 37" tires

wanderer

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they shoot at you in CAlif for driving 65 on the freeway, what gun control?
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Orange01z28

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I just switched from 35x12.5 Toyo Open Country MTs to 37x12.5 Milestar Patagonia XTs and feel zero discernable difference whether in butt-in-seat performance or fuel mileage. In fact, my 37s are 2 lbs lighter per tire than the 35s were

Talk me off the ledge here. Do I really need to re-gear? Is it worth all that money in parts and labor? I figure I could sell the brand new, in-box gears fairly easily to recoup those costs, and just cancel my appointment

There is talk about us getting a boat, which I then know would require regearing for towing, but i seem to be ok in my current use case
Ok update (not that anyone cares)

I went wheeling on Sunday that had some steeper climbs and my JT was struggling more than it ever had before. Gears are going in
 

Escape.idiocracy

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Ok update (not that anyone cares)

I went wheeling on Sunday that had some steeper climbs and my JT was struggling more than it ever had before. Gears are going in
If your wheels and tires are still the same as your signature… are you going with 4.88’s or 5.13’s?
 

Escape.idiocracy

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Ok update (not that anyone cares)

I went wheeling on Sunday that had some steeper climbs and my JT was struggling more than it ever had before. Gears are going in

Also- hit these guys up. Hands down best place in Southern California to get gears done!!!!

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Orange01z28

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If your wheels and tires are still the same as your signature… are you going with 4.88’s or 5.13’s?
5.13s by Yukon. Have the diff covers too

They're sitting in the garage, I just have to wait until the end of the month when we can manage being down to one vehicle for a couple days
 

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Orange01z28

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Escape.idiocracy

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I would've if I hadn't moved. I'm in AZ now
Great move! We departed CA too…. Unfortunately WA is as bad and in some cases worse :(.


We absolutely love Sedona!

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Orange01z28

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Gene26

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5.13 or 4.88 can’t decide. Live at 5200 ft above sea level tow a 5000 pound camper almost every weekend sometimes at 10000 ft. Drive a 20 mile one way commute up to about 6500 ft . Like to go 85 on highway. Off-road a lot.
Rubicon with Auto trans, so 4.10 stock. 3.5 in lift, 37in tires, an extra 300lbs pounds of gear in truck everyday. Live Albuquerque NM so no flat lands everything is up and down. Don’t care about gas mileage (currently around 12 mpg average daily and under 10 mpg towing) just worried that towing a trailer even just to 8000 ft at 65 mph I can’t get out of 5th gear and run about 4000rpm to do that so I don’t want to kill the drive train. Would you recommend 4.88 or 5.13 With all that in mind?
 

1550jrit

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5.13 or 4.88 can’t decide. Live at 5200 ft above sea level tow a 5000 pound camper almost every weekend sometimes at 10000 ft. Drive a 20 mile one way commute up to about 6500 ft . Like to go 85 on highway. Off-road a lot.
Rubicon with Auto trans, so 4.10 stock. 3.5 in lift, 37in tires, an extra 300lbs pounds of gear in truck everyday. Live Albuquerque NM so no flat lands everything is up and down. Don’t care about gas mileage (currently around 12 mpg average daily and under 10 mpg towing) just worried that towing a trailer even just to 8000 ft at 65 mph I can’t get out of 5th gear and run about 4000rpm to do that so I don’t want to kill the drive train. Would you recommend 4.88 or 5.13 With all that in mind?
Due to the extreme back order of Dana 5.13’s, I took a chance on Dana 5.38’s. They have been nothing but outstanding in my truck. The truck drives like it’s on stock 33’s and a tuned 3.6. The terrain around my area is really hilly and the gears tend to stick between 7-8 @ 75mph with zero issues. I also did the Dana diff covers with the cooling fins. I’d eventually like to do a rack and roof top tent, so I’m glad I’ve got the deeper gears. The difference between 5.13 and 5.38 is only 5%. With the gear and terrain that you described, I’d give 5.38 a strong consideration. I’ve currently got 5,000 miles on then with zero issues.
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