Gladiator Expedition Rigs

[Mules]

Beautiful day to test fit the camper.

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[Mac Attack]

Beautiful day to test fit the camper.

View attachment 199388

Looks great! Do you know what the weight is?

 

[smlobx]

Have rock wool insulation in my barn...its good and blown-in closed cell foam for the house. I would go with blown-in closed cell foam for your application. Think it will provide the best R-value per inch of thickness...while less weight and sound-deadening. But, I'm not an expert...just my user-opinion.

Well I am sort of an expert when it comes to insulation and I agree that closed cell insulation will give you the greatest R value per inch that you can easily get. It also will add some structural rigidity to your build…about 20% in a well built home.

 

[Mules]

Beautiful day to test fit the camper.

View attachment 199388

Looks great! Do you know what the weight is?

I think I'm between 150-200 lbs.

 

[Mules]

I'm 6'2" and I sat inside with plenty of headroom. I can walk around (bent over) inside with the top down. It won't fit in my garage, but I can make another low top to switch out for around town mod. Still a lot of body work, painting, insulating, and trimming out the inside yet.

 

[Mules]

Still need to trim the top and bottom fiberglass to match, but it will be pretty open inside when done.

 

[Mules]

Here’s another of the profile.

 

[Black_Widow_Overland]

Maybe i missed the issue of the bed flexing differently then the cab. Is that a issue? Looks good overall.

 

[Mac Attack]

Maybe i missed the issue of the bed flexing differently then the cab. Is that a issue? Looks good overall.

OMG...Black Widow...you're killing me...stay up with the times...and, no...I'm not passing along my real name, address or phone number...don't respond, I'm praying.

 

[KC_H]

Maybe i missed the issue of the bed flexing differently then the cab. Is that a issue? Looks good overall.

It indeed is an issue, not sure how big of an issue, but the outcome is not optimal when you for instance mount an awning on a shell and the rear roof...

Unless one doing extreme off roading I suspect it will be fine...

 

[Mules]

Here’s another of the profile.

Maybe i missed the issue of the bed flexing differently then the cab. Is that a issue? Looks good overall.

Pertaining to bed flex I've been pretty quiet about my real plan.

Plan A) I'm designing in an allowance for 1/2" of flex between the cab and bed. The biggest risk will be if I flex more than 1/2", I will bend and possibly snap off the fiberglass bolt retainers. A good engineering rule of thumb is to design in a controllable weak point. It will break before damaging the entire structure. It's something like shear pins used with tractors.

Plan B) If the 1/2" allowance isn't enough, I designed in an area to cut the cap in half. There would be an accordion rubber gasket between the cab and bed area of the lower shell. I'm optimistic that plan A will work, but plan B is there just in case.

 

[Mules]

Alright, we haven't talked hot water yet. Has anyone tried this Coleman unit out yet? The price is right.

 

[FitfulGoat]

Alright, we haven't talked hot water yet. Has anyone tried this Coleman unit out yet? The price is right.

I have some experience with the Joolca HotTap which is a similar design and it will be the hot water system I likely go with.
https://www.joolca.com/products/hot...a4PrY8js05GlkhwxYNRDsA5YKVxpjqc4aAjEXEALw_wcB

 

[lkosh]

Plan A) I'm designing in an allowance for 1/2" of flex between the cab and bed. The biggest risk will be if I flex more than 1/2", I will bend and possibly snap off the fiberglass bolt retainers. A good engineering rule of thumb is to design in a controllable weak point. It will break before damaging the entire structure. It's something like shear pins used with tractors.

How are you planning on attaching the topper? Through bolting through the bed rails? C-Clamps like a typical truck topper?

Any insight on how you're planning on designing in the allowance for the flex? Slotting the mounting holes?

 

[mog]

I'd just keep the 'systems' simple at the start to keep the weight and volume down. You can always upgrade later if they don't meet your needs. For hot water for years in my Four-Wheel Camper (F250), I just heated a pot of water on the stove in the morning and filled a large (3/4 gallon)Insulated pump style carafe so I had hot water throughout the day. I found if it is 'easy', resources get used wasted at an alarming rate. If the kids could use the sink electric water pump, we would go through 4 times the water, than if they hand pumped it at the sink.
I have not used one of these Geyser Systems yet for showers/dishwashing. but it certainly seems like it would do a great job and save a bunch of water.
I've had great success using the Mr. Heater Buddy Portable Propane Radiant Heater and have personally tested it 'indoors' without dying (so far). Simple heating with an issue of too much heat for a small area, with of course the condensation that comes from propane as the fuel source. As Always YMMV
Lovin' your build and the great progress you are making!

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