Installed Tazer, battery died

[phasty20]

Hey everyone,
I have a 2021 Gladiator I purchased with 14k miles in June 2023. I assume the battery is original. After driving it a little over a year, I installed a Tazer Lite in order to calibrate my speedometer for larger tires. About 2 weeks later, I went on a short drive, stopped for about 10 minutes, and it failed to start on the first try. Fortunately, it started on the 2nd try and I came straight home. I parked in the garage, turned it off, and immediately tried to start it again and it would not start.

I put a battery charger on it and it started after waiting about 20 minutes. I have started and turned it off and restarted several times now with no problem. Voltage shows about 14.3v while running.

I had left the Tazer hooked up but I have since removed it. I did not unmarry it because I wanted to keep my speedometer settings. In reading up on this issue, it looks like old firmware versions can cause battery depletion. Mine has the 11.3.7 version and it appears the current version is 11.4.6. I'll get this updated soon - I can't right now because I only have a Chromebook, which I don't think is compatible to update the firmware on the device.

There are a few variables here- the Tazer, the Tazer firmware, aux battery, and the age of the main battery. I'm not sure what the issue is yet.

At this point, I see no reason to NOT pull fuse 42 and disconnect the (-) aux battery cable. The ESS system is annoying anyway, has lots of drawbacks, and no benefit whatsoever to anyone. Also, I plan to update the Tazer firmware once I can. My questions are:

- Before updating the firmware, do I have to unmarry the Tazer? And after the firmware is updated, I assume I need to go through the instructions to recalibrate the speedometer the same way I did before?
- If I disable the aux battery, does the Tazer need to remain plugged in? OR can it be removed once I update the firmware, remove fuse 42, disconnect aux (-), and re-flash?

Thanks!

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[kevman65]

There are other things that can cause the situation.

If you DON'T do a full reboot followed by two complete sleep sessions things can stay powered up and drain the battery.

 

[phasty20]

Thanks for calling that out. I should have added that I did complete two sleep sessions.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The ESS system is annoying anyway, has lots of drawbacks, and no benefit whatsoever to anyone.

LOL
OK, whatever.

By the way, pulling that fuse and disconnecting the aux battery ground will NOT disable ESS.
I can't figure out where anyone gets the idea that it does - no one ever said it did in any of the instructions out there.
Only your tazer, left in place in the truck, fully connected, can "disable" ESS - or one of the devices, as sold by a forum sponsor.........

A 2021 with that extremely low miles likely has battery issues anyway. Best to get battery checked out after a 100% full charge.
The low miles tells me it wasn't driven enough and long enough to keep the batteries up - so they are likely, after 3 years, headed south.
14K miles from 21 to 23? Yeah, look for battery issues.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Replace both batteries, it's time for that. Be careful and keep the cable ends isolated while doing it. Fully charge both new batteries before installing them.

Unmarry the Tazer and update it. Marry it and make the setting changes. Leave it plugged in and it will remember the ESS button setting you prefer.

 

[phasty20]

I didn't say pulling the fuse and disconnecting the battery would disable ESS. I did ask if I had to leave the Tazer (per context of the post, I'm in possession of a Tazer) plugged in after disabling ESS, which you and Mr. Bill kindly answered. I thank you both for that.

I have had 2 friends with JL's and JT's who disabled ESS and each saw no measurable loss in MPG. Therefore, I don't see the draw back in eliminating something that in my opinion decreases the enjoyment of driving while providing no measurable benefit, increasing repair costs, and increasing the risk of being stranded as countless others have reported.

I agree I should get the main battery checked once everything else is taken care of. I also agree the low mileage of a vehicle this age probably decreases battery life. I will go through with updating firmware, reinstalling the Tazer, disabling ESS and aux battery, having the main battery tested, and I will report back. I appreciate all the help here.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have had 2 friends with JL's and JT's who disabled ESS and each saw no measurable loss in MPG.

And there is proof it's no good or benefit for anyone.

My wife and have both found gains, as has Edmunds, who did an independent study.
We've used it since our first GC with it - back in about 2016.

Sorry, I just really have to laugh when I see "it does no good" and "it causes problems" types of things. Those who were "stranded", well.......... I won't comment on that directly.
Remember, forums are where people gather to talk about troubles, making things look a lot different from reality.

Carry on, carry forward. Your Jeep, your choice on what to use or not use, enable or disable.

 

[phasty20]

Agreed. The evidence I have seen indicates those who disabled it suffered no negative effects. For me, even if there were a slight or unmeasurable disadvantage in MPG, I would still give up the minimal MPG gain over increased reliability and decreased cost of ownership and environmental impact of having a second unnecessary battery onboard. But then again, we drive Jeeps, so it seems MPG isn't too much of a concern for either of us.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Studies have shown that ESS use does conserve fuel. It is best suited for those who have long stoplight waits in a moderate climate. The vehicles are designed to withstand the increased wear on the affected components.

I just replace the batteries as needed. The extra $120 every three years isn't worth the hassle of whatever pulling the battery is attempting to accomplish. It also avoids issues with the dealer if you need any warranty work done.

My concern is personal comfort. I've been driving a Gladiator for over five years. I remote start and let it run as long as possible before each trip. I press the ESS button on the dash at every startup. I track the MPG, but it is not a driving force in what I do.

 

[phasty20]

Studies have shown that ESS use does conserve fuel. It is best suited for those who have long stoplight waits in a moderate climate. The vehicles are designed to withstand the increased wear on the affected components.

I just replace the batteries as needed. The extra $120 every three years isn't worth the hassle of whatever pulling the battery is attempting to accomplish. It also avoids issues with the dealer if you need any warranty work done.

My concern is personal comfort. I've been driving a Gladiator for over five years. I remote start and let it run as long as possible before each trip. I press the ESS button on the dash at every startup. I track the MPG, but it is not a driving force in what I do.

Well, that makes sense. For myself and the 2 friends I referenced, none of us do much stoplight waiting. With hot temperatures which we often have here, the start/stop rarely even activates- I would guess mine has activated less than 10 times in the roughly 14 months I've owned it. We are normally on highway trips. On this type of driving, it appears the additional maintenance and battery costs outweigh any fuel savings. I guess it varies depending I need how you use the vehicle.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ours is mixed driving. Not all that many stop lights, but a few. (when we go to Ankeny or Des Moines, etc.)
We don't get the full 10% of the studies, but it's a definite noticeable change when it isn't working.

There's no additional maintenance - the only real impact is the extra battery cost and weight (and of course, recycling them and so on).

Several companies, including Chevy, BMW and others have used the exact same system.
Other companies use just a single battery.

 

[GI Grandpa]

Hey everyone,
I have a 2021 Gladiator I purchased with 14k miles in June 2023. I assume the battery is original. After driving it a little over a year, I installed a Tazer Lite in order to calibrate my speedometer for larger tires. About 2 weeks later, I went on a short drive, stopped for about 10 minutes, and it failed to start on the first try. Fortunately, it started on the 2nd try and I came straight home. I parked in the garage, turned it off, and immediately tried to start it again and it would not start.

I put a battery charger on it and it started after waiting about 20 minutes. I have started and turned it off and restarted several times now with no problem. Voltage shows about 14.3v while running.

I had left the Tazer hooked up but I have since removed it. I did not unmarry it because I wanted to keep my speedometer settings. In reading up on this issue, it looks like old firmware versions can cause battery depletion. Mine has the 11.3.7 version and it appears the current version is 11.4.6. I'll get this updated soon - I can't right now because I only have a Chromebook, which I don't think is compatible to update the firmware on the device.

There are a few variables here- the Tazer, the Tazer firmware, aux battery, and the age of the main battery. I'm not sure what the issue is yet.

At this point, I see no reason to NOT pull fuse 42 and disconnect the (-) aux battery cable. The ESS system is annoying anyway, has lots of drawbacks, and no benefit whatsoever to anyone. Also, I plan to update the Tazer firmware once I can. My questions are:

- Before updating the firmware, do I have to unmarry the Tazer? And after the firmware is updated, I assume I need to go through the instructions to recalibrate the speedometer the same way I did before?
- If I disable the aux battery, does the Tazer need to remain plugged in? OR can it be removed once I update the firmware, remove fuse 42, disconnect aux (-), and re-flash?

Thanks!

Ii think it is a coincidence. If your batteries are original, the aux battery is bad, and it is now draining the main battery. Replace both or do an aux battery delete and replace the main battery. That is what I had to do on my 21 Mojave a couple of months ago.

 

[GWolgamott]

Off road is only reason I ever turn it off. But I daily drive a long commute everyday (Long highway then through several stoplights in shirt succession.), in summer when running ac it periodic. Rest of year it turns off regularly at stop lights. Out of curiosity I did run a couple months with it disabled vs letting it do its thing. A long term comparison did give me better mileage with it on. Not that it was all that scientific mind you, as I was tracking fuel consumption not the trucks estimated mpg and some weeks I would off road etc.... But just for my own testing and estimates it did save enough to not bother with it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If your batteries are original, the aux battery is bad, and it is now draining the main battery.

However, as shown here over the years, could be the main battery bad as well.

The problem with these vehicles is that too often they aren't driven far enough, long enough, often enough, to keep the batteries up. The parasitic drain isn't horrible, but enough that if you don't keep them charged, they'll go south on you quickly.
Add to that Jeep batteries, and actually, batteries in general, don't last like they used to.
I'll repeat what I've posted here several times - a discussion in a parts store among customers waiting in line was about "I can't get a battery to last 4 years in my cars any more".
Is it the cars and smart charging, or is it driving habits, or is it battery quality, or some combination?
I'd say a combination of all of the above.
Older vehicles charged standard batteries at about 13.8-14.2 no matter what.
Today's AGM batteries require special charging and much higher charging voltages to keep them topped off.

The bit about the aux always going bad and killing the main is internet lore. Not that it can't happen, but odds are that things go bad in other combinations as well, and a bad battery doesn't always take down it's parallel partner. Otherwise, those of us with tractors that used 2 to 4 batteries would always have to replace ALL of them.
It just doesn't work that way.

 

[Mark JT]

“No additional maintenance” with ESS?
yea…no wear on the starter…

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