is 0W-20 really the right oil ?

[jwolfejt]

I know thats what the oil cap calls for - and it sure does make it a bit easier to pour in - however I still do not feel comfortable with this oil weight - was there something done to the pentastars (tighter bearing clearances) that demand this thin oil ? I've heard from many folks who run hemi's that they run at-least a 5w30 weight oil and change regularly (I do 3k oil changes myself). It just does not seem like the oil is upto task for anything other than super cold arctic climates. For the record i've been using pennzoil platinum full synthetic 0w-20 and only mopar oil filters. Anyone running a heavier weight oil with success ?

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[jac04]

There are many discussions about oil weight on this forum as well as virtually every other automotive forum. You can literally spend days reading through what people think is the "right" oil weight. Head on over to Bob Is The Oil Guy forum for lots of oil related discussions.

Here is one discussion on this forum:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ht-and-brand-do-others-use.56671/#post-928825

 

[FitfulGoat]

Most modern engines have moved to these lighter synthetic oils due in part to the advancements in manufacturing and tighter tolerances.

I wouldn’t question it personally as the manufacture has likely done a battery of tests and calculations to determine optimal oil viscosity across the range of operating temperatures. A 20 and 30 weight oil at operating temperature are not vastly different.

 

[jwolfejt]

Thanks guys - i'll stick with this oil weight - i am thinking of switching to amsoil though on my next oil change. no funny sounds or anything coming from my engine *knock on wood*- but figured since its preventive maintenance i'd ask if anyone else has had better success with a different oil weight.

 

[Holes]

I’m always worried about something...

This truck is an excellent truck. I haven’t had any issues...other than the leaking rear window... and after a year and three months I have managed to accumulate just over 25K. ?
I’ve had the oil changed every 5K and this most recent oil change was done away from the dealer at a newer local shop that is actually striving to make a good name for themselves. Fifty bucks for a full synthetic oil change using Mobil 1.
I’m getting tired of worrying about oil. I used to do ALL of my own maintenance, but I don’t want to anymore. I’m just going to take it somewhere I trust. And if I ever have problems with my Jeep I keep an empty credit card for whatever repair I need.
Because we all know that the dealer is going to fuq with you if you have done ANYTHING without their approval...
And God forbid they find out you have a Tazer...?

To summarize, just run what the cap says. Like the earlier poster said, you can guarantee that FCA has done testing like crazy on the engines and lubricants in them.

 

[texanjeeper]

Why would anybody question the weight of the oil? I would think that Mopar knows more about this engine than just about anybody around, and if that's what they say to use, then that's what I'm using.

 

[Holes]

Why would anybody question the weight of the oil? I would think that Mopar knows more about this engine than just about anybody around, and if that's what they say to use, then that's what I'm using.

Indeed.
Many people are stuck in the old “10w30 for summer and 5w30 for winter” mindset.
We’ve come past that with the “0w“ oils.
I don’t know what they even do anymore...?‍
But I’m not a molecular scientist or engineering major. So I just use what is on the cap. ??

 

[dcmdon]

Auto makers have compromised the function and cost efficiency of their vehicles in the name of scraping out another tenth of a mpg.

We can see this in our start stop system. There is nothing wrong with an ESS system generally. But in our vehicles and in most FCA vwshicles its implemented in a way that costs us far more than it saves us. If you do the math as far as gas savings in the 1 mpg range and compare it to traditional battery replacement costs ($120 every 5 years) vs what it costs us. ($400 every 3-4 years) you see that this solution isn't meant to provide better value to the customer. Its meant to satisfy overbearing Government nannies.

Which leads to oil. Do our engines use 0 weight oil because its better for the way engines are built? Or is it chosen and required because it helps to gain another .3 mpg.

I don't know. I'd be interested in a discussion on this trade off.

 

[Kevin_D]

Just as an example…
I have a 2006 Ford V10 with over 120k hard miles on it, and it uses 0w-20 oil. With regular changes, it still runs beautifully.

Kevin

 

[Holes]

Hard to say about anything anymore.
Our world and existence as we know it is a mess and we have many opposing views telling us what should be...

Just use common sense and follow the manufacturers service interval or a bit early using specified lubricant.

 

[Boomeribe]

Thanks guys - i'll stick with this oil weight - i am thinking of switching to amsoil though on my next oil change. no funny sounds or anything coming from my engine *knock on wood*- but figured since its preventive maintenance i'd ask if anyone else has had better success with a different oil weight.

I have used Amsoil for years in everything I own. Currently in the engine, front and rear diffs, plus the transfer case. No problems.

 

[Holes]

??

 

[rr11]

This topic is as old as motor vehicles. I have a 03 F250 with the 6.8 V10. The manual callers for 5W20. All the Ford truck boards debated 5W20 verses 5W30. My take on it is my F250 now has 280K on the motor and the 5W20 has not caused me a problem. I will take Jeep's advice and use the 0W20.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Why would anybody question the weight of the oil? I would think that Mopar knows more about this engine than just about anybody around, and if that's what they say to use, then that's what I'm using.

You are questioning the wisdom of all of those people on the internet, sitting back and tossing out opinions based on what some cousin bubba told them or they read somewhere - so it must be true?

We can see this in our start stop system. There is nothing wrong with an ESS system generally. But in our vehicles and in most FCA vwshicles its implemented in a way that costs us far more than it saves us. If you do the math as far as gas savings in the 1 mpg range and compare it to traditional battery replacement costs ($120 every 5 years) vs what it costs us. ($400 every 3-4 years) you see that this solution isn't meant to provide better value to the customer. Its meant to satisfy overbearing Government nannies.

Not THAT again, even after other independent research (Edmunds, for example) have proven you wrong?
You also obviously have not read the tech info I've posted on how the EPA allows credits to auto makers who use ESS but can't otherwise make CAFE or emissions?
So if Jeep did what YOU wanted, they'd have to scrap their bricks and stick with Grand Cherokee and Renegade.
(BTW - Edmunds and others have proven that the 7-10% is correct - of course depending on how and where you drive)
But haters hate, and those who don't understand - hate what they don't understand. (and refuse to dig further because once a mind is made up, it's not likely to change)

As far as oil "weights" or viscosity - there's a ton more to it than "the weight" or those numbers. |
As long as you use an oil proven and tested to handle high pressures (psi ratings) and high thermal break-down, not what people say is best because of a name or reputation, but what's tested and proven best, or at least very high in the test outcomes, and change no later than the manufacturer recommends, it'll be fine. If it's not, it's more likely some other issue - as they say "sh!~ happens" and sometimes the cards aren't in your hand, the house wins.

Oil, spark plugs, religion, politics......... things that have equal importance on the internet. So if you like arguing religion or politics, bring up how your oil is the best.

Approaching 200,000 on my car....... the original engine went over 160,000 miles then the previous owners crappy lack of maintenance and abuse, finally wore out the bearings. So I rebuilt a Jeep engine and stuck in it.
It's my 5th vehicle to go over 100,000 miles. One went over 200,000 miles. I listened to my HS auto instructor, my boss in the shops I've worked in, and my college instructors who taught engine design and repair.
Sorry, but I tend to smile, even chuckle, at some of the oil stuff out there.

 

[@californiajeeping]

The hot oil viscocity is all about the same. That said theoretically a 5-30W is a little thicker but its close to 0-20 and should NOT make a huge difference.

If you found your oil was degrading quickly or not lubricating when hot you could move to a 5-40w.

I ran 5-30w in my 2020 gladiator 3.6l because it had a tick at idle and rattle on cold start. It helped quiet it down a tiny bit until I traded for a smoother running diesel.

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