Issue with ride quality on 24x14 wheels paired with 6" lift

[kooltoys]

Awesome answer, thank you. I understand RC is a budget lift, but I don't foresee any major off-roading with this jeep besides deep sand occasionally for fishing/camping in Matagorda Island. However that said, if the wheel size/offset is too much, I have no issues changing out to something a bit more correct.

I will do as you said and start with the tire pressure and go from there. Thank you!

I turned 40k miles with 3" spring and RC lower control arms. Just install Clayton front arms and springs, the RC lower joint are worn out! All highway (only seen on 3 trails) just sharing my personal experience.

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[Lunentucker]

You didn't build it, so don't take this personally at all, but that thing is like someone took a vehicle that's already known for borderline drivability and did everything they could to make it worse.
Everything about it is setup to handle like crap and to prematurely destroy steering, suspension, and driveline parts.

Find a reputable Jeep shop and get the lift removed or replaced, get rid of the spacers and the wagon wheels, and get it back to closer to stock, so that you at least have a baseline of how it can and should drive.

Go to a dealer and test drive the stock version of your truck, just so you know what to expect.

The good news is that there's always someone selling stock wheels and tires for a fraction of their value and the same is true for stock suspension parts.

 

[JT1]

Good idea, I will see what I can find.

If you like the stance the jeep has now, dropping down to a 20x9 and keeping 37s is a viable option.
Metalcloak just came out with 4.5" springs, and there are a ton of quality parts out there. We can help get this sorted out for you.

 

[Lunentucker]

Do your homework, but this one seems highly rated and about an hour from you.

https://goo.gl/maps/EuSocPdXqLCDMJy68

 

[XCAJUNX]

From my AI counterpart....


Hello,

While it's true that Jeeps can have a different driving experience compared to sports cars, the level of instability you're describing seems excessive. Here's a list of things you can consider checking or addressing to improve the ride quality and handling of your Gladiator:

1. Alignment: A proper alignment is critical for the stability and handling of any vehicle. Check if your Gladiator's alignment is within factory specifications, and if not, get it aligned by a shop that has experience with lifted trucks and larger wheel/tire setups.
2. Tire pressure: Ensure that the tire pressure is correct for your setup. Improper tire pressure can negatively affect handling.
3. Steering stabilizer: Consider upgrading to a heavy-duty steering stabilizer. This can help reduce wandering and improve steering feel.
4. Suspension and steering components: Inspect all suspension and steering components for wear, damage, or looseness. This includes control arms, track bars, tie rods, and ball joints. Replace or repair any parts that are worn or damaged.
5. Track bar: A heavy-duty adjustable track bar can help ensure proper axle alignment and reduce wandering.
6. Control arms: Adjustable control arms can help achieve the proper caster angle, which is critical for stability at highway speeds.
7. Balance and rotation: Make sure your wheels and tires are properly balanced and rotated regularly. Unbalanced wheels can cause vibration and instability.
8. Wheel and tire size: As some people have mentioned, the size and offset of your wheels/tires can affect handling. Consider downsizing to a more moderate size and offset if you're unable to resolve the issue otherwise.
9. Lift kit quality: The quality of the lift kit can significantly impact ride quality. Consider upgrading to a higher-quality lift kit if the current one is causing issues.

It's essential to go through this list and ensure all components are in good working condition. However, if you still experience instability after addressing these items, consult with an experienced off-road or Jeep specialist for further guidance. They may be able to identify other potential issues specific to your Gladiator's setup.

I hope this helps you address the issues you're facing with your Gladiator. Safe driving!

 

[dcmdon]

I don't know what you want to do, but that configuration is so functionally full of fail, it's almost unfixable.

You have low profile tires on huge rims. Which because of the short sidewall makes them unusable off road. You have enormous and heavy rims that work against you on-road.

Finally, despite the fact that you have tires that are useless off road, you have a ridiculously tall lift that makes it damn near impossible to get it to drive well on road with any reasonable modifications.

My suggestion to you is to decide what you want to do with this truck.

1) if you want it to be a street truck and ride and drive great, then put some 19s or 20s on it with whatever streee tires Chevy or Ford OEMs for their street oriented trucks. (large wheels, low profie tires). Then lower it back to stock ride height. You should be able to find High Altitude take off suspension components super cheap.

2) if you want to off road it, drop WAAAYYY down in wheel size and see how it does. Then with 37s probably drop to a 2 or 4" lift.

3) if you like it how it is but are willing to spend money to make it drive better on the street. I have no idea.

 

[dcmdon]

I have 2 buddies with 37x13.50 20” both of theirs rode like crap, road wandered and grabbed every groove in the pavement, you could feel every bump and you definitely can’t let go of the wheel. Another friend of mine has 37x13.50 17” drives perfect, no wobble no wandering, I run 37x12.5 17” and mine has no wobble or wandering, can let go of the wheel at 70 and it tracks true.

Agree 100%

When a transient force in introduced to the tread, if the tire is laterally stiff it will transmit that force to the suspension and the steering. (big rims, low profile tires)

If the tire is laterally soft, it will soak up a portion of it and dampen the rest that it passes to the suspension. (small rims, high profile tires, 17s are small these days)

If the suspension and steering have a certain amount of flex built into the bushings to work well with high profile tires, then ideally you would stiffen up the entire suspension to run low profile tires.

Either way, those abortions on it will never drive right unless you spend big money. And they will always be inferior to something smaller. IMHO, the truck is quite literally useless as it is. No good off road, no good on road, no good for hauling or towing.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

The lift kit is more than likely not your problem, I'd put my money in the wheel and tire setup. Now if the lift kit wasn't installed properly then that could be issue but who made it and if it's the Rough Country 6" kit I'm thinking of it's a complete kit that even comes with the driveshaft replacement. It's also a good kit that other jeep gladiator owners and wrangler owners I know are running with out any issues but they are running a normal size wheel/tire setup. I'd look at some 17x8 or 17x9 wheels and go to a 37 12.5 17 setup in a tire. I really don't know, other than show, why anyone would run that tire/wheel combo on anything. It's asking for trouble.

For reference any jeep or truck I've ever driven or ride in with anything over 20's on it rode and drove like crap. Sure it may make your rig look sharp if that's what your into but for function and being practical it's not good at all.

 

[Sailscall]

From the 40k foot view, you broke the first rule of buying anything, you fell in love with an inanimate object and lost all objectivity. I'd take it back to the dealer and tell him you want your $ back. The JT is undriveable at normal speeds. I bet you spent too much on a bro'd out truck that drives like hell. Now you're stuck spending more $ undoing the previous owner's sins.

Buy another JT and upgrade to your hearts content. Everyone gave you great suggestions on how to build one out correctly.

 

[Sailscall]

Here's an interesting read from the JL forum if you like big tires. He's running 18 x 12 wheels.

(4) 36x15.5” Wide Tires - They Look & Drive Amazing | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com

 

[theCATALYST]

Wanted to send a thank you to everyone responding to this thread with their opinions and ideas. Instead of responding to each individually, I will make a blanket response to all. It wasn't a love at first sight purchase for me, I loved the Supra I traded in, but the Gladiator is a hell of a lot more practical for my needs at the moment. I actually feel like I got a great trade value and purchase price despite the obvious flaws in the set up on this rig, but decided to purchase and keep my fingers crossed that I could easily work them out.

Yes, I do like the look, but I also understand that setup is utterly useless on and off road and just assumed I would need to be changing it out to get things corrected. I see a lot of useful ideas here and will begin going through this step by step. As of right now, I will check air pressure and alignment as well as all suspension/steering components. Once good, if the problem persists, I will purchase a new set of wheels/tires. I do plan to stay with 37s, but will downgrade the wheels to 17"-20" pending look/price/availability and also get rid of the ridiculous amount of negative offset in the process. I am confident that in doing these steps I can get this thing to have some manners on the highway as well as be more useful offroad. At this time I don't think there is an issue with the lift and will probably stay with the 6" RC, but will have a professional inspect all lift components as well to be sure.

Thank you everyone. I have already reached out to a few dealers for quotes on a new tire/wheel set up and am excited to get moving on this.

 

[Lunentucker]

Wanted to send a thank you to everyone responding to this thread with their opinions and ideas. Instead of responding to each individually, I will make a blanket response to all. It wasn't a love at first sight purchase for me, I loved the Supra I traded in, but the Gladiator is a hell of a lot more practical for my needs at the moment. I actually feel like I got a great trade value and purchase price despite the obvious flaws in the set up on this rig, but decided to purchase and keep my fingers crossed that I could easily work them out.

Yes, I do like the look, but I also understand that setup is utterly useless on and off road and just assumed I would need to be changing it out to get things corrected. I see a lot of useful ideas here and will begin going through this step by step. As of right now, I will check air pressure and alignment as well as all suspension/steering components. Once good, if the problem persists, I will purchase a new set of wheels/tires. I do plan to stay with 37s, but will downgrade the wheels to 17"-20" pending look/price/availability and also get rid of the ridiculous amount of negative offset in the process. I am confident that in doing these steps I can get this thing to have some manners on the highway as well as be more useful offroad. At this time I don't think there is an issue with the lift and will probably stay with the 6" RC, but will have a professional inspect all lift components as well to be sure.

Thank you everyone. I have already reached out to a few dealers for quotes on a new tire/wheel set up and am excited to get moving on this.

On top of so much else, your caster angle is likely crap. A good off-road shop, even though you don't off-road, should be your next step. Otherwise you could easily dump thousands on the wrong things.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

On top of so much else, your caster angle is likely crap. A good off-road shop, even though you don't off-road, should be your next step. Otherwise you could easily dump thousands on the wrong things.

I agree, that lift kit had everything you need to get everything adjusted so your riding right including the driveshaft replacement. That's all if it was installed properly as well. I'd definitely hit up a reputable off road shop and get everything checked by them.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Agree 100%

When a transient force in introduced to the tread, if the tire is laterally stiff it will transmit that force to the suspension and the steering. (big rims, low profile tires)

If the tire is laterally soft, it will soak up a portion of it and dampen the rest that it passes to the suspension. (small rims, high profile tires, 17s are small these days)

If the suspension and steering have a certain amount of flex built into the bushings to work well with high profile tires, then ideally you would stiffen up the entire suspension to run low profile tires.

Either way, those abortions on it will never drive right unless you spend big money. And they will always be inferior to something smaller. IMHO, the truck is quite literally useless as it is. No good off road, no good on road, no good for hauling or towing.

37s on 20" wheels are not what I'd consider low profile tires. There is roughly 8.5" of sidewall.

OP has 37" tires on 24" wheels. Roughly 6.5" of sidewall.

A stock Gladiator with 255 70 18 tires has about 7" of sidewall.

I don't think tire sidewall height is a problem for OP.

 

[JT1]

Wanted to send a thank you to everyone responding to this thread with their opinions and ideas. Instead of responding to each individually, I will make a blanket response to all. It wasn't a love at first sight purchase for me, I loved the Supra I traded in, but the Gladiator is a hell of a lot more practical for my needs at the moment. I actually feel like I got a great trade value and purchase price despite the obvious flaws in the set up on this rig, but decided to purchase and keep my fingers crossed that I could easily work them out.

Yes, I do like the look, but I also understand that setup is utterly useless on and off road and just assumed I would need to be changing it out to get things corrected. I see a lot of useful ideas here and will begin going through this step by step. As of right now, I will check air pressure and alignment as well as all suspension/steering components. Once good, if the problem persists, I will purchase a new set of wheels/tires. I do plan to stay with 37s, but will downgrade the wheels to 17"-20" pending look/price/availability and also get rid of the ridiculous amount of negative offset in the process. I am confident that in doing these steps I can get this thing to have some manners on the highway as well as be more useful offroad. At this time I don't think there is an issue with the lift and will probably stay with the 6" RC, but will have a professional inspect all lift components as well to be sure.

Thank you everyone. I have already reached out to a few dealers for quotes on a new tire/wheel set up and am excited to get moving on this.

Great plan. Try to stick with something 9" wide or less. Shoot for about 100 pounds per corner, if it's 110, so be it.

Easier to achieve that number with a 17, but there are a ton of options with 20s too.

One other thing to consider, metalcloak and a couple other companies have alignment jigs you can use on your own to set toe. The metalcloak ones are $70. If you want to try it yourself, it's a pretty simple process.

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