Vtur
Well-Known Member
It's an AGM battery. The right size/dimensions too.It works great on the bikes, as that is what it's designed for. It's the same capacity as the ESS battery, but it is not a AGM battery.
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It's an AGM battery. The right size/dimensions too.It works great on the bikes, as that is what it's designed for. It's the same capacity as the ESS battery, but it is not a AGM battery.
I have the warning at 46k and 2 years, but my 3rd brake light isn't working either so I think they might be related. I'll do a system reset with the Tazer later.The batteries are covered under the 3/36 warranty. There have been many reports of the ESS batteries failing sooner. The batteries can last longer, but expect to replace them every three years. I have over three years on my original set of batteries. The at rest voltage is slowing dropping, so I anticipate having to change them in the near future.
The link provided doesn't specifically state that it is an AGM battery. I would expect the dimensions to be similar, since it is the same capacity. The connectors are not correct, which will require some effort to install it. How much cheaper is it, and what type of warranty does it carry? The correct battery is available from AutoZone for $99.It's an AGM battery. The right size/dimensions too.
The connection can be hookup either to the side or top of the terminals. It's not cheaper. I have good experience with Yuasa, it has a high quality acid glass mats. One must fill the included acid and charge it before use. I'm just throwing another options out there that's all.The link provided doesn't specifically state that it is an AGM battery. I would expect the dimensions to be similar, since it is the same capacity. The connectors are not correct, which will require some effort to install it. How much cheaper is it, and what type of warranty does it carry? The correct battery is available from AutoZone for $99.
Autozone has the AUX14 for $100, and the YTX14-BS is available for ~$85.How much cheaper is it, and what type of warranty does it carry? The correct battery is available from AutoZone for $99.
Beware of stealerships' incompetency. Look up couple of threads here about gladiators burn down after battery replacement from stealershipsAppreciate the responses, now got to figure out my best options. The top battery is a no brainer but that ess battery replacement is what I'm not sure about doing myself.
Hell no. I rather do from the top.I went through the passenger wheel well, way easier.
I trust my dealership, not all are the same. Been dealing with the same dude at mine around 18yrs and he's never done me wrong. Hendricks has top notch service and is a top notch dealership. I will admit some suck but I've never had a bad experience at the Concord NC Hendricks dealerships or any of their Charlotte locations. I've bought 4 BMWs and 5 jeeps from them over the past 20yrs and they have done most of my service work on all my vehicles in those 20yrs and i can't say enough good things about themBeware of stealerships' incompetency. Look up couple of threads here about gladiators burn down after battery replacement from stealerships
I agree. Having done top down and watching that video of going through the fender well, it is way less hassle going top down.Hell no. I rather do from the top.
My big battery was tested at Auto zone who said that it tested good. I'm still having the error after driving for a short time. Rebooting the system via Tazer didn't work.That's pretty much what my guy said, people misdiagnosis the problem all the time thinking it's the smaller battery but just replacing the bigger one will normally fix it and he also said it will start working again if you replace the smaller battery but it will fail again much quicker because the bigger battery is normally the issue. Seems pretty much like that's problem what's happening, not saying that's everyone's deal but who knows. It's working now.
Did you have to remove the fuse box to get to the smaller battery lead?Here is an image of my AUX lead to the main battery .... the lead does stack onto another lead that needs to be flipped over as it is tabbed. I added additional shrink wrap and cloth tape to insulate.
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They said mine tested good as well, that's why I thought it was the smaller battery. Almost bought one but decided I didn't want to mess with it. Glad I didn't know, the jeep seems to be performing better now that it has in a few months and the ESS system is definitely back in point and doing what's it's supposed to do.My big battery was tested at Auto zone who said that it tested good. I'm still having the error after driving for a short time. Rebooting the system via Tazer didn't work.
Did you have to remove the fuse box to get to the smaller battery lead?
I had issues with these batteries dying and then the vehicle won't start & the batteries no longer will take a charge. Especially when I don't drive a lot with working from home. The second time my batteries died I didn't bother going back to jeep, instead I replaced my batteries with a Genesis Dual Battery system and thus far the problem seems to be solved.Went out and tried to turn it over and nothing it clicked a few times then started flashing all kind of messages saying the jeep was in drive and some other stuff. It got stuck in the run position on the stop/start button and I had to unhook the battery to get everything to reset. The auto start/stop feature hadn't worked in about 3 or 4 weeks now, I think maybe that battery is dead and that's the issue. Seems like everything else is getting good power except the starting system. 57,000 miles on it and almost 3yrs of ownership and this is my first major issue.
You guys think that's the issue and if so should I let the dealership deal with it or is it pretty easy to replace that second battery. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I'm headed back to the house now to try to jump it off and see what happens.
Looks good but I had the big replaced and all is good now. The system seems nice but I'll just stick to what's stock. I feel like a lot of these battery issues are misdiagnosed from the feedback I've been getting and things I've been reading. As with a lot of vehicles, if they sit for awhile they won't start because of a dead battery. Although I feel like the big battery should of lasted longer than it though.I had issues with these batteries dying and then the vehicle won't start & the batteries no longer will take a charge. Especially when I don't drive a lot with working from home. The second time my batteries died I didn't bother going back to jeep, instead I replaced my batteries with a Genesis Dual Battery system and thus far the problem seems to be solved.
The stock location for the start / stop battery is buried under the fuse box near the wheel well & is a pain to replace. With the Genesis it replaces those batteries with two full sized group 25 AGM batteries which you purchase separately and are fully accessible. I ordered the full throttle AGM batteries with the system from Genesis. It has an isolator that won't let your crank battery get drained down too far that it can't start the vehicle. It will automatically switch over to the accessory battery if the cranking voltage gets too low. You can also use the secondary battery to jump the main battery. It's a project to install but nothing too difficult & can be done in an afternoon if you're motivated. I did mine over a weekend.
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That has always been the problem of DC parallel circuits using uneven amp hour rated sources. It would be less problematic had they used two batteries of equal value.Although I feel like the big battery should of lasted longer than it though.