Leaking (blowing!) diff fluid. Hole in axle housing?

[Stan H]

https://trailforged.com/product/jl-jt-rear-m220-axle-bearing-upgrade-kit/

That's the upgrade .... to me it is more of a retro kit as it is the tapered needle roller bearing style of yesteryear.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Gear-RA28RJLPK-Pinion-Bearing/dp/B07ZHXRR7Z

This is the original

I aint telling anyone to buy either of these kits .
This is simply for converted illustration purposes.
Disclaimer: no animals were harmed during the typing of this post and were under strict watch by peta.

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[Stan H]

From what I’ve seen, it sounds like I should order an inch pound beam wrench, unless you think I’ll get away with an inch pound click style, but that seems awkward.

The yoke torque alone is 150# so what ever ya get make sure it exceeds that amount. May want a 200# capable.

 

[Stan H]

My rear is completely redone, recently. All new bearings, seals, and shims. The one leaking is my front diff pinion. That one had roller bearings already, as far as I’m aware.

Oh okay yeah thats for the rear the front has the older style in it ..

 

[WILDHOBO]

https://trailforged.com/product/jl-jt-rear-m220-axle-bearing-upgrade-kit/

That's the upgrade .... to me it is more of a retro kit as it is the tapered needle roller bearing style of yesteryear.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Gear-RA28RJLPK-Pinion-Bearing/dp/B07ZHXRR7Z

This is the original

I aint telling anyone to buy either of these kits .
This is simply for converted illustration purposes.
Disclaimer: no animals were harmed during the typing of this post and were under strict watch by peta.

I genuinely don’t know if my rears are changed to tapered or not. I paid a shop to do a refresh of bearings, shims, and seals recently. The front likely needs it as well. I haven’t decided if I want to tackle it myself to save a million bucks. They used a revolution master install kit on the rear refresh.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The yoke torque alone is 150# so what ever ya get make sure it exceeds that amount. May want a 200# capable.

My larger one goes from 25 to 250.

 

[Stan H]

I genuinely don’t know if my rears are changed to tapered or not. I paid a shop to do a refresh of bearings, shims, and seals recently. The front likely needs it as well. I haven’t decided if I want to tackle it myself to save a million bucks. They used a revolution master install kit on the rear refresh.

Ahhh a cool Million ... me me me !! Please I will do the front for you for that tidy sum.

Okay kidding aside .. I think I will look to confirm but believe those kits come with that factory looking elongated cone ball bearing style..

Edit : no by golly I think it's the older now an upgrade version 🫡

 

[Stan H]

https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...-jl-and-gladiator-jt-rear-master-install-kit/


This is what they did in yours I figure

 

[Stan H]

https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...jl-and-gladiator-jt-front-master-install-kit/

Here is the front if your going to the point of basic renewal minus the ring gear and pinion gear.

 

[WILDHOBO]

https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...-jl-and-gladiator-jt-rear-master-install-kit/


This is what they did in yours I figure

It is. Gears were on perfect shape. Bearings were worn. After lots of miles, but no broken parts.

 

[WILDHOBO]

https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...jl-and-gladiator-jt-front-master-install-kit/

Here is the front if your going to the point of basic renewal minus the ring gear and pinion gear.

That’s what I’d use. I’ve talked to revolution about it briefly in the recent past. I’m not sure if I want to dive into that after all the other crap I’ve done recently. I may down the road, but probably not now. It’s so close to being back on the road that I might do the seal and sleeve temporarily and save the refresh until winter. Winter starts here in October. I’ve lost a lot of season this year already.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Picked up the seal and sleeve just now. Now to psych myself up.

 

[Hootbro]

https://trailforged.com/product/jl-jt-rear-m220-axle-bearing-upgrade-kit/

That's the upgrade .... to me it is more of a retro kit as it is the tapered needle roller bearing style of yesteryear.

Just a FYI for those out there looking at this, I am pushing on two weeks for an order I placed with Trail Forge for this bearing and have not heard or seen any movement on it. They have not responded to any of my email or text (their claimed preferred method of contact).

So far, not impressed dealing with them.

Edit 6/4/25: Finally got a shipping confirmation email but they never did reply back to any status inquiry I sent. Looking around the internet, seems to be a common complaint that they never get back or one is readily able to get a hold of them. I would be cautious or temper expectations when ordering from them in the future.

 

[Stan H]

Go go go @WILDHOBO you got this !!!!

 

[Pilsner]

Oil, for that matter, other fluids, blow BACK. I see oil ahead of the axle tubes.
The driveshaft looks straight to me, but I see spots on it and the pinion area seems wet in the pictures.
The leaking area will have the least fluid, it will be worse behind the leak.

Agree. Had a transfer case leak that had that pattern. It's not the rear axle.

 

[Pilsner]

I didn't take too many pictures of the last two differentials I did......... mostly carrier bearings and such.
One word of warning - if you do this and use a new crush sleeve - EAT YOUR WHEATIES, work out a few days first. It's CRAZY to get those started.
I usually have to use a tool to hold the pinion yoke from turning while I give it my all with a long breaker bar to get that thing started to crush.
Then watch out as you have to pay attention because once a crush sleeve starts to crush, it gets easier as you go and it's easy to overshoot the runway. I've seen some beginners go through 2 or even 3 crush sleeves because they kept cranking too much.
There are a lot of DIYers who use them over - I don't like to because that's assuming the setup was perfect to begin with, no wear and no possible deviation from specs.
You probably know I just don't trust they easily.
The kicker is - the pinion preload will now also include any preload or load on the carrier bearings. So it's important to follow the process.

This. Still not sure how you got oil so far forward from a rear leak, but I wouldn't replace the sleeve unless I was going to open the diff and check pre-load (which I would probably do to be safe). It is a lot easier on axles with a 3rd member so you can put in on a bench. I have used crush sleeves on the axles I have rebuilt, but I think next time I will use a crush sleeve eliminator. They can be a pain.

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