Lets talk Differential Covers!

[Josh00333]

Doing gears some time in the next few weeks, soon as the parts show up.

So lets talk Diff covers!

Basically since I'm (or the shop) will be there want to do everything related to the work at the same time.

Re-gearing, and going to add an E-Locker up front.

I do tow a bit and run a lot of power to the ground over stock (super charger). I've been wondering abought better covers for cooling/capacity. I saw these, and yes they are godly expensive (can find them cheaper). They have +50% fluid capacity which on it's face sounds perfect, but.... they are aluminum, and some controversy if the added fluid capacity is even meaningful?

https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-71190b-pro-series-rear-differential-cover-black-w-machined-fins

Other options?

AEV, ARB? They look cool, seem better made but what do they actually do aside from that?

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jl-differential-covers/

I was thinking the AFE Power with a rear diff skid plat would be good?

Or just go stock and don't over think it?

Or add the skid plate to stock?

What are folks feed back?

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[Rusty PW]

If you 4 wheel. Stay away from aluminum. I've seen them fail. Banks did a video series on diff covers. A lot of good info on what goes in to designing them.

 

[MattK]

I've seen the AEV ones take a beating and keep on like nothing happened. They are nodular iron, so they are tough. I run AEV wheels and suspension and if I ever regear, I'm going to use their product. I'm sure there are plenty other good ones out there but there is something to be said about seeing their performance firsthand.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you 4 wheel. Stay away from aluminum. I've seen them fail. Banks did a video series on diff covers. A lot of good info on what goes in to designing them.

Depending on the design of the differential housing, fluid flows and so on - the cover can make a big difference in that flow and thus cooling and lubrication.
Don't need to watch the vids to know what he's going to say.
For cars, light trucks, light loads, not as big a deal but if a person believes they need different covers, then do it right. There's a big reason there are the shapes to factory covers that there are.
It was taught clear back in HS. And yet people still argue about the fluid levels must be this or that and if not up to the axle tubes you'll destroy bearings and so on.
You need that curve, and hopefully more like a channel to guide the lube.
My bet, he's probably proving exactly that like he always does with other stuff.

Too many fancy after-market covers are a step backwards from stock.

 

[Rusty PW]

I've seen the AEV ones take a beating and keep on like nothing happened. They are nodular iron, so they are tough. I run AEV wheels and suspension and if I ever regear, I'm going to use their product. I'm sure there are plenty other good ones out there but there is something to be said about seeing their performance firsthand.

I have the nodular iron Dana covers. They have the same inside shape as the stamped oem covers.

Just about any iron cover is better than the oem cover, off road.

 

[Josh00333]

Appreciate the feed back! Sounds like AEV covers a skid plate for the rear and call it good is the best course.

 

[Jaxmax]

If you don’t wheel hard the ARB , AEV or the Dana are fine if you are going to wheel hard stay stock covers and look at the Next Venture diff skids, protects a lot more and the factory covers would be protected, WildHobo here runs them and swears by them. I don’t wheel hard and really like the Dana diff covers…..Jack

 

[Josh00333]

Daym those are tanks!

 

[Rusty PW]

Front covers with ribs on them. Some of them, the ribs will hit on the track bar from some companies. Depends on the bend in the track bar.

 

[MojaveLawyer]

I have the ARBs in the front and rear, and the front one got rusted up pretty bad. Rear is still holding up great.

Will post some pics in the morning.

 

[ffeggleston]

Motobuilt here. Solid

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I have the nodular iron Dana covers. They have the same inside shape as the stamped oem covers.

Just about any iron cover is better than the oem cover, off road.

This. and it goes in line with the banks videos for fluid dynamics. Nodular iron diff covers are more than stout enough for off-roading and rock crawling. Won’t peel and have yet to see one crack- definitely won’t bend….
skid plates take away clearance, and can add one more thing to get caught up on. My opinion Dana nodular > diff skids.

 

[whiteglad]

Motobilt or CavFab--cheap, strong, effective. Despite claims that the factory shape helps, I found good results with Mag-Hytec on my Rams and it seems that the lube hitting the flat back helps cool it. I saw a reduction in diff temps with them, and raw aluminum was best by about 5 degrees vs, powder coated.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Doing gears some time in the next few weeks, soon as the parts show up.

So lets talk Diff covers!

Basically since I'm (or the shop) will be there want to do everything related to the work at the same time.

Re-gearing, and going to add an E-Locker up front.

I do tow a bit and run a lot of power to the ground over stock (super charger). I've been wondering abought better covers for cooling/capacity. I saw these, and yes they are godly expensive (can find them cheaper). They have +50% fluid capacity which on it's face sounds perfect, but.... they are aluminum, and some controversy if the added fluid capacity is even meaningful?

https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-71190b-pro-series-rear-differential-cover-black-w-machined-fins

Other options?

AEV, ARB? They look cool, seem better made but what do they actually do aside from that?

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jl-differential-covers/

I was thinking the AFE Power with a rear diff skid plat would be good?

Or just go stock and don't over think it?

Or add the skid plate to stock?

What are folks feed back?

I’m in the add skid plate to stock camp. And I’d use nothing but next venture motorsports. My stock diff covers have never even been scratched after doing very serious trails for almost 50k miles since defeating and installing skids. I also did it at the same time. You don’t need to be ready immediately though. They’ll crack the cover again after the break in. My break in was 1000 miles.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Daym those are tanks!

Here’s a picture after removing my rear last week to change the fluid. There isn’t a scratch on the diff housing or cover. The skid is amazing. Dirt after all those miles, yes. But I cleaned it up.

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