Magnuson TVS1900 Kit Available Now

[JTPatriot]

I am still going to try a couple things with the throttle body. Mine is real close. I think I have cruise figured out. Im also on the fence about a regear I think keeping the RPM over 1900 would help things quite a bit. At this point though another 1k I am still about 18k cheaper than a hemi swap. The refinement I am getting to is pretty surprising.

Whats up with the cruise?

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[DAVECS1]

I could feel the bypass valve toggle every now and then around 68 mph and 7th gear. Not enough to make the gauge needles move, but I could feel it.

 

[old motorhead]

I am still going to try a couple things with the throttle body. Mine is real close. I think I have cruise figured out. Im also on the fence about a regear I think keeping the RPM over 1900 would help things quite a bit. At this point though another 1k I am still about 18k cheaper than a hemi swap. The refinement I am getting to is pretty surprising.

Are you tying to tie boost amount to throttle position? That would be great!

 

[DAVECS1]

So I have been pretty deep into the programming and the throttle body is pretty disconnected from your foot. From the factory of you put it to the floor from a dead stop it may at most open 30% until about 3200 rpm. There are about 5 tables regulating that behavior. You can see were that my be an issue for a supercharger. Petty addressed it to some extent but there are some tables for fine throttle movements, like stuff driving in town or low load like cruise on the interstate, that Petty did not touch, I am convinced that is what gives you the dead pedal feel when you first take off on the SC tune. It is not entirely noticeable and probably a safe calibration for the population, but it feels a bit unnatural. If I can get the throttle to open at a rate where the engine is always pulling vacuum at slow engine speeds I think I can get cruise and take off to be butter smooth. The problem at the moment is, when you feel like you have it making the most power, the throttle is pretty far open and that 3.6 goes to 0 vacuum really damn quick. In fact it runs little to no vacuum at cruise when your around 2000rpm. The vacuum pot for the bypass valve on the supercharger is almost binary so once there is no vacuum it slams shut and full pressure from the blower loads the cylinders and you get a surge. Fun when you want it, but cruising down the interstate it is a little cantankerous. With this electric valve it can progressively regulate the bypass flap and introduce small amounts of positive pressure in low load situation and if your agressive it can dump the whole shooting match. The valve can be tuned for progressive rpm and throttle position

 

[old motorhead]

Damn, Jeep sure complicated things. I've had many Magnuson blowers. Loved them for their simplicity. They don't break and the boost can be totally controlled with you right foot. I'm pulling for you to get this lined out. Mega attaboys to you for the effort!!

 

[CaptainRon]

Vivid Racing in Phoenix. Baseline dyno done: 210rwhp.

I saw Vivid's video of your install and the performance improvements which really amped my enthusiasm. Exciting stuff and I'm very tempted to drive up from Tucson and have them upgrade my JT.


Since it has been a few months can you give us a followup? Do you have any suggestions for those of us considering it and are you happy with the supercharger/service?

 

[DAVECS1]

I have managed to construct a calibration that does not require a smooth boost valve. It actually utilizes the supercharger during a smooth sensible take off, at very low boost levels with controlled throttle opening. Drives pretty awesome, can easily scoot away from boring full size pickups at the light, without looking like I am drag racing

 

[Tonopah01]

DAVECS1: I like the Magnuson a lot. It runs great and has created no problems (except the install issue with the ac condenser that I have mentioned before) with anything. The only "feature" that is a little problematic is the feeling of an "on/off" switch going on in first gear upon initial acceleration. My foot has pretty well learned to compensate for that by now but other drivers immediately notice it. "Twitchy" is the way it might be described.

 

[DAVECS1]

DAVECS1: I like the Magnuson a lot. It runs great and has created no problems (except the install issue with the ac condenser that I have mentioned before) with anything. The only "feature" that is a little problematic is the feeling of an "on/off" switch going on in first gear upon initial acceleration. My foot has pretty well learned to compensate for that by now but other drivers immediately notice it. "Twitchy" is the way it might be described.

Well I believe I have a fix for that, if your interested. I messaged you with the details.

 

[Tonopah01]

I saw your message and I am giving it some thought. Thanks.

 

[Mjolnir]

I've been following this quite closely for a while and it seems most of my concerns have been "debunked" so to speak. However, I do have a few questions for you all that have this installed.

1. Are any of you concerned with the added stress that is placed on the axles? This is a big concern of mine. Although our current version D44's are stronger than previous generations, it still makes me wonder if it would be wise to go to D60's. Any thoughts on this? Or would it just be better to go 35 spline chromoly shafts?

2. I have never had an SC on my vehicles, and I am building my JT to be an overland vehicle. Is it worth it? I do work full time so most of my time driving is on the highway, however, I like to take week long camping trips throughout the year. I do not crawl with the JT, that is what my JK is for.

3. I have a snorkel coming in sometime this month from Mishimoto (like I said this is going to be an overland vehicle with plenty of water crossings). How will this effect performance?

Appreciate any feedback!

 

[Membrain]

I've been following this quite closely for a while and it seems most of my concerns have been "debunked" so to speak. However, I do have a few questions for you all that have this installed.

1. Are any of you concerned with the added stress that is placed on the axles? This is a big concern of mine. Although our current version D44's are stronger than previous generations, it still makes me wonder if it would be wise to go to D60's. Any thoughts on this? Or would it just be better to go 35 spline chromoly shafts?

2. I have never had an SC on my vehicles, and I am building my JT to be an overland vehicle. Is it worth it? I do work full time so most of my time is on the highway, however, I like to take week long camping trips throughout the year. I do not crawl with the JT, that is what my JK is for.

3. I have a snorkel coming in sometime this month from Mishimoto (like I said this is going to be an overland vehicle with plenty of water crossings). How will this effect performance?

Appreciate any feedback!

I also have a query out to Miishimoto regarding the snorkel performance - does it maintain or improve upon OEM air flow CFM?

I have a super charger on my 2014 JKUR and once tried a snorkel but uninstalled the snorkel as it restricted air flow to the super charger. Why install a super charger for increased power requirements if you are going to starve it of air it needs to perform, therby making the engine performance same as stock. Super chargers need airflow.
Granted, with an OEM air flow setup, the power loss with a poorly designed snorkel is probably negligible.


This same concern applies to CAIs - in that the OEM intake tube has boxes on the tube used to tune power in certain RPM bands - these also affect the "sound" as a side effect. Simple research of dyno runs will show you that the different CAIs provide "increased HP", but over an RPM that is different from the OEM tuned tube.

My mods tend to lean towards the functional requirement over the looks cool requirement.

So, this said...
I have a Mishimoto CAI and an S&B CAI with hood scoops onhand and am waiting for clarification on the Mishimoto snorkel performance... right now the only "advertised" benefit for the Mishimoto snorkel is "Increases induction noise."

 

[Mjolnir]

I also have a query out to Miishimoto regarding the snorkel performance - does it maintain or improve upon OEM air flow CFM?

I have a super charger on my 2014 JKUR and once tried a snorkel but uninstalled the snorkel as it restricted air flow to the super charger. Why install a super charger for increased power requirements if you are going to starve it of air it needs to perform, therby making the engine performance same as stock. Super chargers need airflow.
Granted, with an OEM air flow setup, the power loss with a poorly designed snorkel is probably negligible.


This same concern applies to CAIs - in that the OEM intake tube has boxes on the tube used to tune power in certain RPM bands - these also affect the "sound" as a side effect. Simple research of dyno runs will show you that the different CAIs provide "increased HP", but over an RPM that is different from the OEM tuned tube.

My mods tend to lean towards the functional requirement over the looks cool requirement.

So, this said...
I have a Mishimoto CAI and an S&B CAI with hood scoops onhand and am waiting for clarification on the Mishimoto snorkel performance... right now the only "advertised" benefit for the Mishimoto snorkel is "Increases induction noise."

I dont care about induction noise. What I need is the functionality of a snorkel as I have many routes planned with water crossings that my JK has done with confidence due to the snorkel.

If it restricts airflow to actually hurt performance, then an SC is just not for me. I would rather be able to do what I want to do than get up to 70 MPH 4 seconds faster than before.

 

[Membrain]

I dont care about induction noise. What I need is the functionality of a snorkel as I have many routes planned with water crossings that my JK has done with confidence due to the snorkel.

If it restricts airflow to actually hurt performance, then an SC is just not for me. I would rather be able to do what I want to do than get up to 70 MPH 4 seconds faster than before.

The Mishimoto snorkel also provides this notice:
CAUTION
This snorkel alone does not increase the vehicle's water fording limit. Fording water above the stock recommended limit may require modifying other components to avoid water damage.

So good luck with your deep water fording.

And the super charger just is not for getting up to 70 MPH 4 seconds faster than before.

My JKUR is regeared to 5.13 and the super charger ensures I have no power issues when towning my mil-surplus trailer. I am definitely NOT built for speed. The supercharger ensures I have plenty of power when towing on the highway as well as offroad.

 

[Mjolnir]

The Mishimoto snorkel also provides this notice:
CAUTION
This snorkel alone does not increase the vehicle's water fording limit. Fording water above the stock recommended limit may require modifying other components to avoid water damage.

So good luck with your deep water fording.

And the super charger just is not for getting up to 70 MPH 4 seconds faster than before.

My JKUR is regeared to 5.13 and the super charger ensures I have no power issues when towning my mil-surplus trailer. I am definitely NOT built for speed. The supercharger ensures I have plenty of power when towing on the highway as well as offroad.

I understand that a single item will not increase water fording depth. I am not new to this sort of thing lol. It is one of a multitude of items/things I need.

I also understand an SC is not just for speed. However, for my purposes and for my build, I do not normally need major power unless I am hauling my JK to offroad parks like AOAA or Rausch. In those instances I would love it, but my overlanding is my primary focus.

Thanks for the discussion.

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