Magnuson TVS1900 Kit Available Now

[desertfox73]

I'm not sure where this difficulty driving, or coming on like a "light switch" is coming from.
My wife drives my Gladiator all the time and has zero issues(other than getting in which can be fun watching). I've had several friends with Jeeps drive it and absolutely love it.
Yes the throttle sensitivity feels slightly more responsive in first gear than stock, but it only makes me wish every other gear felt the same. You get used to that change after driving it for a day(like any new vehicle.)

If you really want it to come on like a light switch take out the restrictor in the bypass valve and go for a spin . I don't advise leaving it like that, but it sure does make power instantaneous in every gear.

My one and only complaint about the tune(and this may be for longevity) is that on the highway the Jeep tends to downshift when lightly pressing the gas rather than building a bit of boost down low. It just makes it sound like the Jeep is trying too hard when it really doesn't need to. This could be attributed to all the extra weight(tires/axles etc), but on the quick spin I took with the restrictor out it felt like the Jeep required much less effort on the highway.

Just a thought - have you reached out to Petty's Garage who does the tuning? They might be able to make some adjustment for your specific needs. They tuned mine in person and were able to dial it in to my situation (RTT, lift, wheels, etc.). Great guys.

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[itsdapk]

do you have a dyno chart of your kit?

 

[itsdapk]

I would like to see an overlay of a Hamburger chart over a Magnuson TVS chart.

I'd love to let someone be able to drive both and do a comparison.

 

[LeftCoast32]

 

[LeftCoast32]

You can clearly see the difference here. Look at the starting RPM for both dyno graphs. Start at 4250 rpm on the Magnuson dyno and compare that with Hamburgs. Magnusons dyno starts at 2600 rpm and Hamburgs starts at 4250 rpm. The hybrid roots design creates more power everywhere. The numbers dont lie.

 

[TTEChris]

Just a thought - have you reached out to Petty's Garage who does the tuning? They might be able to make some adjustment for your specific needs. They tuned mine in person and were able to dial it in to my situation (RTT, lift, wheels, etc.). Great guys.

I have not yet. What I'm describing is very minor and doesn't take away from the joy of driving.
I planned on calling them once/if Magnuson releases the +2psi high altitude pulley for the JL. In Houston we really need that for those mountain passes.

Power is addicting. I thought I left that behind in my sports car days

 

[old motorhead]

I have not yet. What I'm describing is very minor and doesn't take away from the joy of driving.
I planned on calling them once/if Magnuson releases the +2psi high altitude pulley for the JL. In Houston we really need that for those mountain passes.

Power is addicting. I thought I left that behind in my sports car days

I would think that the 610 bridge over the ship channel would require a couple more pounds of boost....just sayin'.

 

[itsdapk]

That "coming on like a light switch" couldn't be further from the truth. I've had multiple Magnuson TVS blowers on trucks and Vettes. You could accelerate all of them rather briskly without even getting into boost. The most recent one was a Heartbeat TVS2300 blown C6 Vette with manual transmission and 660+rwhp. My wife drove it just fine. It drove totally stock with light throttle inputs. Mash a little harder and you get mild boost. If you want full boost, at any rpm over idle, floor it and all of the boost you paid for is right there. No waiting for rpm to build. You control the boost, or lack there of, with your right foot. Makes your vehicle feel 1000#'s lighter.

Yes, under light throttle and no boost conditions, all supercharger kits will drive like they have no supercharger attached as the pressurized air does not enter the combustion chamber. The Magnuson blowers all use vacuum actuated bypass valves, which means that as vacuum goes away, the bypass valve closes, and the supercharger no longer bypasses any air and is "on". Since the boost curve is relatively flat on a positive displacement supercharger, meaning that at any rpm, the boost is about the same. You will get 6 lbs of boost at 2000 rpm and you will get 6 pounds of boost at 4500 rpm. The "switching point" where the bypass valve closes is approximately 5 to 10 kpa below atmospheric pressure and with this type of valve there is no way to have the supercharger only deliver "partial boost" to the engine. This results in a manifold pressure spike when the bypass closes and it's an "all or none" type of system.

 

[itsdapk]

You can clearly see the difference here. Look at the starting RPM for both dyno graphs. Start at 4250 rpm on the Magnuson dyno and compare that with Hamburgs. Magnusons dyno starts at 2600 rpm and Hamburgs starts at 4250 rpm. The hybrid roots design creates more power everywhere. The numbers dont lie.

Actally number can and do lie. You can dyno at 5 different places and get 5 different numbers which is why we do engine hp like the factory does. You have load bearing dynos, Different temperatures can lie, Tire size, 1 ton axles or not, gears, etc. 50lb wheels vs 150lb wheels can all lie.
Because it make more power down low does NOT mean it will drive better. lol

I welcome anyone to drive our Gladiator whenever I'm out on the road. I've visited 200+ shops in our JK and Gladiator and most say Hamburger's is the best driving kit out there and the most fun.
Some shops stopped selling superchargers all together due to unhappy customers with other brands.

I've also seen many , many, many, dyno chart vehicles get their butts handed to them by lesser dyno number" vehicles in the 25 years of going to the track and street racing (in Mexico)

 

[DAVECS1]

It would be nice if Magnuson had an electronic bypass valve. But it actually can work super smooth with the vacuum bypass. There is an airflow model used by the controller to govern the throttle body. There are also tables that regulate throttle opening based on rpm, load, and torque. Changes to those tables based on your customization can make the Magnuson kit drive better than stock. My family and friends drive my Gladiator and absolutely love it. Guy at work said it was quicker and smoother than his new Land Rover. It sounds really refined with the Magnuson whine on top when accelerating.

 

[itsdapk]

It would be nice if Magnuson had an electronic bypass valve. But it actually can work super smooth with the vacuum bypass. There is an airflow model used by the controller to govern the throttle body. There are also tables that regulate throttle opening based on rpm, load, and torque. Changes to those tables based on your customization can make the Magnuson kit drive better than stock. My family and friends drive my Gladiator and absolutely love it. Guy at work said it was quicker and smoother than his new Land Rover. It sounds really refined with the Magnuson whine on top when accelerating.

We may or may not have one of those... Can't release the details yet.

 

[LeftCoast32]

Actally number can and do lie. You can dyno at 5 different places and get 5 different numbers which is why we do engine hp like the factory does. You have load bearing dynos, Different temperatures can lie, Tire size, 1 ton axles or not, gears, etc. 50lb wheels vs 150lb wheels can all lie.
Because it make more power down low does NOT mean it will drive better. lol

I welcome anyone to drive our Gladiator whenever I'm out on the road. I've visited 200+ shops in our JK and Gladiator and most say Hamburger's is the best driving kit out there and the most fun.
Some shops stopped selling superchargers all together due to unhappy customers with other brands.

I've also seen many , many, many, dyno chart vehicles get their butts handed to them by lesser dyno number" vehicles in the 25 years of going to the track and street racing (in Mexico)

If we were not on opposite coasts I would be more then happy to put them side by side for a comparison. While a Centri needs to build rpm to make boost a PD is at full boost and gone.

 

[DAVECS1]

We may or may not have one of those... Can't release the details yet.

With most consumer centrifugal superchargers they have decent boost introduction control as the pressure map is usually set up to be positive as the engine gets to its natural torque peak. I think the 3.6L with a roots is a bit unusual. On Big V8s the amount of cylinder vacuum is large due to the displacement and such. So your vacuum signal is pretty defined at low engine speeds. With the 3.6L the reason it is efficient is because it is always working as a high performance engine even down low so there is not a lot of slow moving piston speeds drawing vacuum. It always seems to be on the verge of atmospheric pressure when throttle is applied. As such the bypass becomes way more sensitive and along with that the rpm is high enough your making instant boost off the line with a PD. An electronic bypass would let you introducce boost proportionally similar to a centrifugal, but you would be able to dial up as much as you want, when you want.

 

[old motorhead]

Here's the question. Where, in the RPM band do you want your boost? If you have 8psi to work with, do you want it starting a 2500 rpm (TVS) and hanging in that range to rev limit? Or, do you want absolutely no boost at 2500 RPM (centri) and have it gradually building to 8psi at rev limit? For a street driven Gladiator, it's an easy choice. Do you want your boost in an RPM band that you actually use on the street, or do you want little to no boost until an engine speed that you just rarely use on the street?

Forge the engine, add a big stall converter, big gears, big boost, meth and a centri may make sense. For a mostly heavy, mildly boosted, mostly stock street machine, a centri just doesn't make sense.

I really don't see the need for anything fancy with the by pass valve. It closes seamlessly when going from vacuum to boost. You can use the boost or not. Run a centrifugal up to 4500 rpm in neutral. It's making boost. Even though you're not moving and have no load on the engine. Do the same thing with a TVS. If there's no load, there's no boost. Which do you think is more efficient?

 

[old motorhead]

The "switching point" where the bypass valve closes is approximately 5 to 10 kpa below atmospheric pressure and with this type of valve there is no way to have the supercharger only deliver "partial boost" to the engine. This results in a manifold pressure spike when the bypass closes and it's an "all or none" type of system.

Have you ever driven one or even been around one? I can choose no boost, mild boost, full boost, or anything in between, with just manipulation of the right hand pedal.

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