Mopar Trailer Brake Controller for Jeep Gladiator Officially Released (Part # 82215652AB)

[Mkcagle]

Observation, I have been towing travel trailers and boats for over 30 years and 100,000 miles plus. Never once in all that time have I activated the manual brake lever while underway. I guess there might be a reason to use but I have yet to see it. To me the only difference between the Mopar unit and the Redarc is the cost and no one has reported any issues with the Redarc that I am aware of. I know and appreciate that any sort of operational issue is important.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Observation, I have been towing travel trailers and boats for over 30 years and 100,000 miles plus. Never once in all that time have I activated the manual brake lever while underway. I guess there might be a reason to use but I have yet to see it. To me the only difference between the Mopar unit and the Redarc is the cost and no one has reported any issues with the Redarc that I am aware of. I know and appreciate that any sort of operational issue is important.

No one has reported issues with the Redarc IF they use the RAM harness with a diode.
Otherwise, yes, there's an issue and it was reported here more than once. It was pointed out at least as far back as 2019 that Redarc would do the same thing without the proper harness provisions.

I have used the manual button. Only a couple of times, years ago, nothing in the last 15 years, but it's not something I'll give up assuming "heck, I'll never use that thing anyway".
Recalling my experiences hauling a heavy car on a heavy trailer in the mountains to and from Reading, PA, there's no way I'd be without a perfectly working controller. Especially with a truck as small and light as the JT is.

 

[Harold0819]

I haven't installed mine yet. But as for the manual button. I never use it while driving but the way I was taught was to use it to set the brake gain with your trailer and weight. Start rolling slow, turn it up to where you think you need it. Hit button, adjust accordingly if too much drag or too little. Once set for your trailer and cargo weight then it is easy to adjust accordingly to add/subtract braking if needed according to your roads.
Am I correct or was I shown incorrectly? With what I was taught...I need the manual button.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I haven't installed mine yet. But as for the manual button. I never use it while driving but the way I was taught was to use it to set the brake gain with your trailer and weight. Start rolling slow, turn it up to where you think you need it. Hit button, adjust accordingly if too much drag or too little. Once set for your trailer and cargo weight then it is easy to adjust accordingly to add/subtract braking if needed according to your roads.
Am I correct or was I shown incorrectly? With what I was taught...I need the manual button.

That's how I've always been told, tested - depending on the load on my trailer, set the gain and test it with the manual button. If it's too abrupt of the brakes lock, back it off, if it doesn't slow you down enough, go higher.
I use it to tell me how it's going to brake. I've also in the past, years ago, used it to keep the brakes working more on the trailer when going down a steep grade to keep things straight, and on less than good roads.

 

[Harold0819]

okay...started my install. No problem getting the dash apart but how are you guys getting the power outlet out? Maybe I'm just being to gentle cause it feels like I'll break it. I don't have the tool they show and the plastic feels like it is gonna snap if I try to push screwdrivers in there. Any suggestions from those who have done it?

 

[Pitch]

okay...started my install. No problem getting the dash apart but how are you guys getting the power outlet out? Maybe I'm just being to gentle cause it feels like I'll break it. I don't have the tool they show and the plastic feels like it is gonna snap if I try to push screwdrivers in there. Any suggestions from those who have done it?

I used two very small flat head screwdrivers. It took some finesse but the plastic held up fine.

 

[Jaxmax]

Patience is your friend, the tool is not that great, I thought It was going to break the whole dash panel when working it out, I would do the two screwdrivers instead of the tool if I do it again......Jack

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Patience is your friend, the tool is not that great, I thought It was going to break the whole dash panel when working it out, I would do the two screwdrivers instead of the tool if I do it again......Jack

Boy does that sound familiar!

Ditto on the patience is your friend.
These panels and plastic parts aren't something you hurry with.
No troubles at all unless you get in a hurry or frustrated. If the latter - I suggest folks walk away for a while and come back fresh.
It's not a race.

 

[olecarguy]

Boy does that sound familiar!

Ditto on the patience is your friend.
These panels and plastic parts aren't something you hurry with.
No troubles at all unless you get in a hurry or frustrated. If the latter - I suggest folks walk away for a while and come back fresh.
It's not a race.

Hi All,

As others have recently suggested, given the mixed results, I would highly recommend once you get the switch installed into the dash panel and that panel reinstalled, clamp the controller to the frame somehow, connect the wires, and test the system. If it fails at this point, avoid the frustration of trying to mount the module.

I used to very small screwdrivers inserted between the clear plastic and metal frame, directly over the latches to remove the power port.

My biggest frustration was a) identifying what the F*(^! the instructions was trying to indicate as far as where to mount the module, then b) being able to bend in there to get to it, while laying upside down.

a) I've included PICs of the frame assemble where it mounts. Included is also the unit mounted. Note as ShadowPaPa says, wiring as instructed is very tight. So, I mounted the unit and let it tilt towards outside of Jeep, then connected wires after routing them as chosen, then carefully tightened the nuts while ensuring the wires did not pinch or abraid on the frame. Note that the lower screw mounts in the hole highest on the corner and the other requires that you remove the existing tie wrap holding the existing wiring harness to the frame. The hole where the tie wrap plus into is the upper mounting hole for the module.

b) I moved the driver seat backward agains the rear seat by removing the 4 seat to floor mounting bolts. Doing so made it a whole lot easier.

As a separate note, we've had discussions about the elimination of the 12V power port. I'm thinking that it could be relocated into the center consoled. Not my idea, stealing it from my Lincoln Aviator. I found this console storage unit which I believe will permit me to re-mount and reuse the existing 12V port in it's entirety, into the bottom of the top unit. https://salexorganizers.com/jeep-wrangler/ With a little extra wire, the upper tray can still be removed permitting access to the bottom.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had to laugh outloud and loud when I saw the jeepcares response "work with your dealer to resolve....."

And if the DEALERS are clueless?????
(and they ARE)
And if you didn't buy it from the LOCAL dealer, but online?

Jeep needs to provide a SOLUTION.
Jeep has no clue that this doesn't work on some JTs
Jeep thinks that harness is the fix and that in itself is one of the most laughable things I've seen come out of support.
Jeep doesn't even know that vaporware harness that doesn't even exist is to add a place to connect a controller, it is NOT a solution.

Jeep owes us a fix.

Yes, I could hack in a fix, yes I could spend ANOTHER $30 bucks, yes there are solutions, like going back to Redarc - but this is a defective kid from the get-go.

jeepcares says "worth through the dealer" and if the dealer is clueless??
If the people up the chain that the dealer calls is clueless?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hi All,

As others have recently suggested, given the mixed results, I would highly recommend once you get the switch installed into the dash panel and that panel reinstalled, clamp the controller to the frame somehow, connect the wires, and test the system. If it fails at this point, avoid the frustration of trying to mount the module.

I used to very small screwdrivers inserted between the clear plastic and metal frame, directly over the latches to remove the power port.

My biggest frustration was a) identifying what the F*(^! the instructions was trying to indicate as far as where to mount the module, then b) being able to bend in there to get to it, while laying upside down.

a) I've included PICs of the frame assemble where it mounts. Included is also the unit mounted. Note as ShadowPaPa says, wiring as instructed is very tight. So, I mounted the unit and let it tilt towards outside of Jeep, then connected wires after routing them as chosen, then carefully tightened the nuts while ensuring the wires did not pinch or abraid on the frame. Note that the lower screw mounts in the hole highest on the corner and the other requires that you remove the existing tie wrap holding the existing wiring harness to the frame. The hole where the tie wrap plus into is the upper mounting hole for the module.

b) I moved the driver seat backward agains the rear seat by removing the 4 seat to floor mounting bolts. Doing so made it a whole lot easier.

As a separate note, we've had discussions about the elimination of the 12V power port. I'm thinking that it could be relocated into the center consoled. Not my idea, stealing it from my Lincoln Aviator. I found this console storage unit which I believe will permit me to re-mount and reuse the existing 12V port in it's entirety, into the bottom of the top unit. https://salexorganizers.com/jeep-wrangler/ With a little extra wire, the upper tray can still be removed permitting access to the bottom.

EXCELLENT PICTURES!

 

[Harold0819]

Excellent pictures!! Thanks all for the info. I ended up running over to the Jeep dealership about 10 min from my house. The tech there had the tool, took him longer to find tool then it did to remove the outlet. Had alot of running around to do today so I worked on it as I could. The assembly of the switch and center dash sections were easy. As other said, very tight under the dash. As Olecarguy did, I flipped my controller around as the directions showed. Got the unit bolted in and after probably 30 minutes of fighting to get the plugs in realized I needed to loosen the bolts...LOL. Got them inserted, tightened up the module, zipped up my wires, and got everything reassembled. So far, with no trailer hooked up I have no codes or lights. Had jeep running and pressed button. I have to run out again but when I return I'll hook it to my trailer and see what happens.
A little tip...get a few extra M6 nuts and star washers....I dropped 2 behind the kick panel trying to get the top bolt on the bracket. Too dam tight for my big hands...LOL. Ended up having to open my kick panel and retrieve nuts I dropped.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A little tip...get a few extra M6 nuts and star washers....I dropped 2 behind the kick panel trying to get the top bolt on the bracket. Too dam tight for my big hands...LOL. Ended up having to open my kick panel and retrieve nuts I dropped.

That was one of my " big fears" that I'd drop those keps nuts back there and have a rattle LOL - I actually thought about wrapping tape on my dry fingers to help grip.
Man, I did not want to have to pull things apart to get those out because of a rattle. But I was lucky -I had them on and off at least 3 times trying to get wires connected and never dropped either one of them once. . Maybe stick a rag or something up there in that area to keep them from dropping - just in case.

 

[JeepCares]

Hello everyone, thank you for sharing the concerns that you've faced with Part #82215652AB. We have escalated your feedback to the appropriate teams. We apologize for the inconveniences that this may have caused you, thank you for your patience as we look into this further.

Kathryn
JeepCares

 

[Harold0819]

Well here are some pics of my install and a video showing the function. So far mine has functioned without any issue. I have towed my trailer yet but hooked it up at least to test function.
Pictures of module are actually mirror imaged because of the way I held my camera.
Edit. Have to reduce size of my video

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