Seems kinda logical that people who don't own a catch can wouldn't be able to give much feedback on them.Curious since the only replies are those that have spent money on a catch can and the ones trying to justify installing one. Has anyone have say over 60000 miles on their gladiator without a catch can and if so are you seeing and negative effects such as crusted intake that has to have been cleaned or similar
If you would have read the post it was not asking People without a catch can about them but instead asking if anyone has had problems resulting from the oil being fed back into the intake as the factory designed and epa approvedSeems kinda logical that people who don't own a catch can wouldn't be able to give much feedback on them.
I have the UPR catch can and it does a great job of catching oil with no water.
I read your post. I've torn apart hundreds of motors when I worked as a technician and seen the effects of oil ingestion through pcv systems, which is why I spent the money to get a catch can. And I'm pretty sure the EPA would give you a pat on the back for capturing and recycling oil in a catch can rather than burning it and releasing the emissions into the atmosphere via the factory setup.If you would have read the post it was not asking People without a catch can about them but instead asking if anyone has had problems resulting from the oil being fed back into the intake as the factory designed and epa approved
Well working as a factory tech I never came across any Iāll effects but this was when 4 cylinder and straight 6 were in play. I was curious if the new design engine has developed any problems. I have to say as a factory tech it was rare to see any engine problem with less than 100000 miles on it. If you think it helps good for you like they say if you build it they will come or buyI read your post. I've torn apart hundreds of motors when I worked as a technician and seen the effects of oil ingestion through pcv systems, which is why I spent the money to get a catch can. And I'm pretty sure the EPA would give you a pat on the back for capturing and recycling oil in a catch can rather than burning it and releasing the emissions into the atmosphere via the factory setup.
Thanks for the feedback one thing though a catch can will not reduce oil useage if oil is being pushed through the pcv the same amount will either be burned or in a catch can. On my last trip due to high temps in the desert and speeds over 70 I couldnāt get an accurate oil reading until after about an hour of sittingI've not installed a catch can, over 60000 miles have had blow by of oil then sucked though intake. On trip from Huntsville, AL. to Eastern KY last summer. during the trip I had to add oil first and only time. On the trip I did experience higher than normal oil temperatures and down shifting a lot. First and only time I burned though over a qt. of oil. that trip did worry me, on oil usage. That was a few oil changes back.
Yeah, that's what I posted several months ago.Take care about generics. Catch cans in bad positions have a tendency to "overproduce" results.
Throw a thin catch can in an area where it's likely to create condensation and you're going to be emptying it very often, except what you empty will look a whole lot more like chocolate milk than engine oil.
Contrary to popular belief, oil and water can mix with enough agitation and can suspend to a point where they no longer separate. That's what the "chocolate milk" in a catch can is. Don't get duped into thinking you're saving your engine from 8 ounces of potential sludge every 2500 miles when most of that sludge is water being pulled out of air that was never in your engine to begin with.
From my limited research, mishimoto is both a very thick can, and located in a proper location to reduce condensation. What comes out of a mishimoto during spring-fall should look exactly like used motor oil, and there shouldn't be much of it. You'll still get some chocolate milk in the wintertime.
The issue is with direct injected engines. These are not. The fuel washes the oil off the valve and seats.Well working as a factory tech I never came across any Iāll effects but this was when 4 cylinder and straight 6 were in play. I was curious if the new design engine has developed any problems. I have to say as a factory tech it was rare to see any engine problem with less than 100000 miles on it. If you think it helps good for you like they say if you build it they will come or buy
Can you imagine if we had the 4.0 and 8hp75... Ugh I'm drooling ..Well working as a factory tech I never came across any Iāll effects but this was when 4 cylinder and straight 6 were in play. I was curious if the new design engine has developed any problems. I have to say as a factory tech it was rare to see any engine problem with less than 100000 miles on it. If you think it helps good for you like they say if you build it they will come or buy
Well said the reason I question if there is a problem on these engines and never concerned about the engines of 20 years ago is due to the tighter clearances in these engines and the materials used for the blocks and intakes. I remember when the molds for the 4.0 liter were so worn that the factory was installing braces on the main bearings to help quite them down and reinforce. Oil going down the combustion chamber was more likely a plus than a negative. I personally donāt believe a catch can is of any use on a non direct inject engine unless the vehicle is doing a lot of off road with very steep inclines. Just wondered if anyone has had to have an intake pulled and cleaned due to excessive oil buildup or going through O2 sensors?Yeah, that's what I posted several months ago.
If it looks like it came from Starbucks, it ain't oil. It's an emulsion and mostly water.
If it's working properly, it will look exactly like you just took it out of the drain pan - the exact same color and consistency of oil in the crankcase.
Tan = water.
The issue is with direct injected engines. These are not. The fuel washes the oil off the valve and seats.
With direct injected engines the oil builds up on the valves and burns on. It never gets washed off.
These do not have that issue.
Think of the 3.6s out there with 100,000 miles - and no issues caused by oil.
I guess I could ask - why would it be a problem for these but not engines of 20 years ago?
If you drove 2,000 miles and the oil was down 1/2 a quart, only a fraction of that is through the PCV - some will be by the rings, for example. So the amount of oil going through the PCV system is not the total of oil being "consumed".
And I'd ask those with a catch can - if you find 8 ounces of oil ever xx miles, there are 32 ounces in a quart. So if you dump 8 ounces of "oil" out of the catch can 4 times, your engine has to be over 1 quart low in that same period. If it's not........... something ain't right with your math LOL because that's not the only way oil is "lost".
I understand that it will not reduce oil consumption, I was just pointing out under high temperatures and oil pressure the effect "I had" during one trip not regularly, a second detail was lack of "burning oil" smoke I did not notice any. So high CAT(s) temperature burning that off too.Thanks for the feedback one thing though a catch can will not reduce oil useage if oil is being pushed through the pcv the same amount will either be burned or in a catch can. On my last trip due to high temps in the desert and speeds over 70 I couldnāt get an accurate oil reading until after about an hour of sitting
If you take an average of 3000 miles with an average fuel economy of 19 miles per gallon to consume roughly 157 gallons of fuel, and an oil collection rate of 4 ounces over than 3000 miles, that comes out to a dilution ratio of 5023:1. Or 0.031 ounces of oil per gallon of fuel burned. Literally less than a drop of oil per gallon.Being port injection, coating of the valves is not a thing, but I do worry about fuel dilution and itās impact on octane rating.