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Oil Catch Can - is it needed?

ShadowsPapa

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Found this about catch cans (and he's right - if it looks like starbucks, the bulk of the liquid is water and no it will NOT separate out as I've shown before. It's more of an emulsion.)
The starbucks looking stuff he talks about is more water than oil so when you think it's "full of oil" and it looks like a drink and not like the oil in your crankcase, then only a little of it is actually oil.

Here's the guy's quote - and he's a vendor -
----------------------------------


For everyone to understand about catch cans and condensation. Certain companies promote catch cans with all the water or moisture they collect and that gives honest manufacturers a BAD RAP. I will share the fact that most of the condensation / moisture a catch can collects is from the catch can and not the engine. Engines heat up so fast they force the moisture to evaporate and thus do not contribute much to the condensation / moisture in the catch can that gives it that Starbucks look. The catch cans actually introduce more moisture and create a steam or cleaning effect on the engine internals.

Thin wall and welded catch cans will generate a lot more condensation / moisture as the thicker walled sturdier construction catch cans will not suffer from the same extreme temperature sweeps. Thicker catch cans will hold temperature better while driving as the thinner units will cool quickly allowing them to continually produce condensation / moisture while driving and this will fill the can quicker requiring additional maintenance for no reason and create a lot of wasted time.

The design is critical to how much oil will be separated before getting into the intake tract and combustion chamber. I have been watching many re-sellers make claims that create fear or post millions of DI pictures of engine failures and giant bottles of Starbucks looking fluids collected. The proper design of a catch can is to be able to keep the catch can hot enough to evaporate the condensation / moisture and still stop all the oil.

Most catch can manufacturers run the coolest location possible to hide the lack of efficiency and this is why so many catch can manufacturers show all these pictures of the Starbuck's looking Mixture.

The fuel that gets by the rings or gets collected in the catch can is harmless and can be burned in the combustion chamber without any negative effects.

The biggest thing we see with all the late model engines is how much stronger the PCV system function is and how much more oil they introduce and scavenge through the PCV to be ingested into the intake tract and combustion chamber.

Please keep in mind that a catch can is an oil separator. Larger catch cans collect 2x to 3x more condensation / moisture being mounted in cooler locations and that feeds the sales pitch and bad rap for catch cans that are mounted and function properly in hotter locations than others. I have worked hard watching many so called experts regurgitating things like send it to Blackstone and wait till you see how much they collect in the winter etc. LOL, these guys are selling something that has nothing to do with the normal PCV function. A PCV system mainly introduces oil and fuel into the intake tract and combustion chambers.

Either way, this is just to inform the readers about the reality of a Catch Can / Oil Separator's function and I'm not here to get into a he said she said and would just like to state the facts. 50yrs of racing experience and engine building with the very best in the industry has allowed us to test and see these things and it was the reason we have been able to continually discover many variables about the PCV that many still haven't figured out. We're not just some aftermarket street car guys that sell products and never talk down to anyone or want them to be uneducated about our products or a products true function. We sell our Catch Cans based on the true value and function and deliver the very best hoses, fitting and components across the board.

I'm not pushing any product here and just sharing the information about how critical the oil separation is and the rest of the things that get thrown in to try and sell and promote these products is nonsense.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and feel free to PM any questions as I'm always happy to help you make the ( best-educated decisions )

Joe / UPRproducts
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Jeepin' John

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This is after 500 miles with the mishimoto catch can. Not a ton, but some for sure. Mine came out looking like regular used oil. The catch can isn't catching 100% of it though. There is some making it through, as seen in the second pic of a paper towel stuck into the intake manifold connection end of the clean side tube from the catch can. But it looks like the can sure is cutting down on how much oil the pentastar has to eat.

63A3D892-82DD-4711-843E-DC2697CFD5A8.jpeg


441107F7-C747-49A8-A92D-F9FF430E8D1E.jpeg
 

ShadowsPapa

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This is after 500 miles with the mishimoto catch can. Not a ton, but some for sure. Mine came out looking like regular used oil. The catch can isn't catching 100% of it though. There is some making it through, as seen in the second pic of a paper towel stuck into the intake manifold connection end of the clean side tube from the catch can. But it looks like the can sure is cutting down on how much oil the pentastar has to eat.

Jeep Gladiator Oil Catch Can - is it needed? 441107F7-C747-49A8-A92D-F9FF430E8D1E


Jeep Gladiator Oil Catch Can - is it needed? 441107F7-C747-49A8-A92D-F9FF430E8D1E
Now THAT is pure oil, the volume is not increased with any water. No starbucks look, pure crankcase look.
Which catch can are you using?

500 miles - highway, town, mix? Towing, not towing? On-road, off-road?
Just curious.
If that is basic on-road driving at 500 miles, take that times 6 for 3,000 miles, the oil should be low on the stick.
 

be77solo

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Now THAT is pure oil, the volume is not increased with any water. No starbucks look, pure crankcase look.
Which catch can are you using?

500 miles - highway, town, mix? Towing, not towing? On-road, off-road?
Just curious.
If that is basic on-road driving at 500 miles, take that times 6 for 3,000 miles, the oil should be low on the stick.
He said "This is after 500 miles with the mishimoto catch can".

Watching this thread, still no idea what to think haha
 

ShadowsPapa

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He said "This is after 500 miles with the mishimoto catch can".

Watching this thread, still no idea what to think haha
Missed that word, not capitalized and it didn't stick out as a "name"
Chromebooks can be tricky - no way to set contrast, etc.
 

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be77solo

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Missed that word, not capitalized and it didn't stick out as a "name"
Chromebooks can be tricky - no way to set contrast, etc.
Ha, all good, I wasn't calling you out, just passing along further info. I'm still confused if these things hurt or help with our 3.6 based on this thread ?!?
 

ShadowsPapa

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Ha, all good, I wasn't calling you out, just passing along further info. I'm still confused if these things hurt or help with our 3.6 based on this thread ?!?
I tried to take it as "he said the brand" - I must be careful - my ADHD makes me jump at times.

My take is - it can't hurt. But I've learned there are huge differences and some make it LOOK like they are working great while others actually do catch oil. This appears to be a "cheap isn't good" thing.

Frankly, I'm still torn on the issue because of all of my vehicles, I've never used one and never had any problems. HOWEVER, I see Chevrolet has a patent out for one that self-cleans, so - what's Chevy seeing?

I can't see harm, in any case - unless you use a cheap one and the thing fills up and you think oh, cool look at all of that - and it's actually 3/4 water emulsion and not all oil. (and frankly with the quantities some believe their beloved system is catching - they'd soon be emptying the pan if it was REALLY oil)
Like the VENDOR, seller of one more expensive catch can says - if it's tan - like a $5 Starbucks drink - it ain't oil. It's only all oil if it looks EXACTLY like what's in the pan.
 

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For me personally, it's just about trying to help the pentastar out a bit. Between the catch can and running 89 octane, she behaves quite a bit better at lower rpm. A $200 catch can and another $0.30 per gallon (fuel is a business expense luckily) isn't too bad. I know the jeep engineers say it's designed to run on 87 and ingest blow-by and crank case oil, but i want to be a bit easier on it. I'd like to put 200,000 trouble-free miles on this JT if i can
 
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ShadowsPapa

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For me personally, it's just about trying to help the pentastar out a bit. Between the catch can and running 89 octane, she behaves quite a bit better at lower rpm. A $200 catch can and another $0.30 per gallon (fuel is a business expense luckily) isn't too bad. I know the jeep engineers say it's designed to run on 87 and ingest blow-by and crank case oil, but i want to be a bit easier on it. I'd like to put 200,000 trouble-free miles on this JT if i can
And a lot of people do just that with no mods at all - so............ yours should last 300,000 miles.

I've had NO ISSUES AT ALL with 87, not ping or rattle or anything like that. I runs fine with 87 as does my wife's WK2 but I've done some experimenting and getting interesting results.
 

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Does it still smoke?

I've seen this before and it was oil building up in the top of the cylinder head. There are holes in the head to drain back into the crankcase and at some angles a lot of oil can get caught without a way to drain out. The PCV then sucks up the oil that's trapped.

It seems like it could still pool up and get sucked in and overwhelm a small catch can.

Just curious.
I haven’t wheeled it on anything really steep since the install. I agree, it could still pool up but I will check the can every few weeks.
 

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A little over 3k miles summer miles, about 5 ounce, stuff in the winter has lighter color probably from condensation being mixed in.

28F634C9-E415-4B6F-85D8-2B1D115CF41F.jpeg
 

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For anyone interested in a catch can, JLT makes a very nice product and it’s a simple install. Had one on my SRT 392 Durango, definitely works as described.
Contemplating one for the JT.
 

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Just ordered a catch can from JLT. They e-mailed me the invoice to verify for accuracy.
I am impressed with that professionalism.
 

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The JLT can looks really small, will probably have to empty every 2k miles or so. I have a generic one which holds around 8 ounces and I empty it around 3k-4K miles and it is almost full, wish it was larger and could go 5k miles which is when I change the oil.
 

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The cheaper ones need a bigger can because, well, they are cheap and end up with a lot of condensation in the oil, filling the can quicker. The better ones end up with only oil and have a smaller "can".
HUGE differences in design and efficiency.
If it looks like a starbucks drink, it's a cheap can and most of what's in there is water.
the pic from March is mostly water, condensation, very little oil.
A good catch can contents will look like oil straight out of the pan - exact same color as what is in the engine.

Below is a message from a guy who sells such accessories (I also have the information about how much WATER oil will really hold - no, it doesn't necessarily separate in the catch can)
Basically he's explaining why the cheaper version typically have a larger can (and then brag about how much they caught as a marketing ploy)
--------------------------------------

For everyone to understand about catch cans and condensation. Certain companies promote catch cans with all the water or moisture they collect and that gives honest manufacturers a BAD RAP. I will share the fact that most of the condensation / moisture a catch can collects is from the catch can and not the engine. Engines heat up so fast they force the moisture to evaporate and thus do not contribute much to the condensation / moisture in the catch can that gives it that Starbucks look. The catch cans actually introduce more moisture and create a steam or cleaning effect on the engine internals.

Thin wall and welded catch cans will generate a lot more condensation / moisture as the thicker walled sturdier construction catch cans will not suffer from the same extreme temperature sweeps. Thicker catch cans will hold temperature better while driving as the thinner units will cool quickly allowing them to continually produce condensation / moisture while driving and this will fill the can quicker requiring additional maintenance for no reason and create a lot of wasted time.

The design is critical to how much oil will be separated before getting into the intake tract and combustion chamber. I have been watching many re-sellers make claims that create fear or post millions of DI pictures of engine failures and giant bottles of Starbucks looking fluids collected. The proper design of a catch can is to be able to keep the catch can hot enough to evaporate the condensation / moisture and still stop all the oil.

Most catch can manufacturers run the coolest location possible to hide the lack of efficiency and this is why so many catch can manufacturers show all these pictures of the Starbuck's looking Mixture.

The fuel that gets by the rings or gets collected in the catch can is harmless and can be burned in the combustion chamber without any negative effects.

The biggest thing we see with all the late model engines is how much stronger the PCV system function is and how much more oil they introduce and scavenge through the PCV to be ingested into the intake tract and combustion chamber.

Please keep in mind that a catch can is an oil separator. Larger catch cans collect 2x to 3x more condensation / moisture being mounted in cooler locations and that feeds the sales pitch and bad rap for catch cans that are mounted and function properly in hotter locations than others. I have worked hard watching many so called experts regurgitating things like send it to Blackstone and wait till you see how much they collect in the winter etc. LOL, these guys are selling something that has nothing to do with the normal PCV function. A PCV system mainly introduces oil and fuel into the intake tract and combustion chambers.

Either way, this is just to inform the readers about the reality of a Catch Can / Oil Separator's function and I'm not here to get into a he said she said and would just like to state the facts. 50yrs of racing experience and engine building with the very best in the industry has allowed us to test and see these things and it was the reason we have been able to continually discover many variables about the PCV that many still haven't figured out. We're not just some aftermarket street car guys that sell products and never talk down to anyone or want them to be uneducated about our products or a products true function. We sell our Catch Cans based on the true value and function and deliver the very best hoses, fitting and components across the board.

I'm not pushing any product here and just sharing the information about how critical the oil separation is and the rest of the things that get thrown in to try and sell and promote these products is nonsense.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and feel free to PM any questions as I'm always happy to help you make the ( best-educated decisions )

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