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Oil Change - What lube, and should I have Jeep do it?

Whitepanther

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The owners manual says sensors monitor the oil and changing indicator depends on vehicle driving conditions. The longest it says to go without a change if the light doesnt come on is 10k miles or 1yr, whichever first
That's what I thought, but when I brought it in they told me I waited too long, and not to go based off of that because we have different conditions than other parts of the country.... Ok....
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PyrPatriot

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That's what I thought, but when I brought it in they told me I waited too long, and not to go based off of that because we have different conditions than other parts of the country.... Ok....
I mean, you get 4 free over 2 years (except California) so that is one ever 5000 miles at least
 

smlobx

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That's what I thought, but when I brought it in they told me I waited too long, and not to go based off of that because we have different conditions than other parts of the country.... Ok....
...and of course the service writer at your dealership has a PhD in molecular engineering and knows more than the engineers at FCA...

That is pure BS. All he’s trying to get you to do is to spend more money at the dealership because you’ve burned through your oil changes quicker.
 

spazzyfry123

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...and of course the service writer at your dealership has a PhD in molecular engineering and knows more than the engineers at FCA...

That is pure BS. All he’s trying to get you to do is to spend more money at the dealership because you’ve burned through your oil changes quicker.
Service is where the dealers are making money!
 

iammacey

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I switched the Fiesta ST to Motul, the GT4 to Motul, and will be switching the Gladiator to Motul today.
 

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I must have gotten lucky with my FCA vehicles. Wife and I have had them all. BMW, MINI, Nissan, Toyota, Ford, Chevrolet, Jeep, Dodge, Ram, etc... Out of all of them, the Chrysler (now FCA) vehicles have hands down been the most reliable and well built.

As far as Mobil 1 goes, it's the bandwagon effect. It's like Nike shoes or Yeti coolers. They cost more but research proves their are better options on the shelf. Everybody buys them on name recognition alone. No, Mobil 1 doesn't meet FCA spec. Guess what? They don't meet the spec for a lot of auto makers. At least they didn't last time I checked.

Mobil is trying to push "extended drain intervals" as a marketing gimmick these days. Ask BMW how long drain intervals for consumer convenience worked out for them. All those replaced engines later... a new oil change requirement hits the owners manuals.

And as far as engineers knowing what's best.. LOL. An engineer does what the bean counters tell them to do. FCA's goal is to achieve maximum fuel economy to avoid EPA penalty and maximize profit. That is not the same goal the consumer has. The consumer wants an engine that will last the maximum amount of miles before requiring overhaul. I've been doing oil analysis on an engine that was originally spec'd with 5W30 and then over the years the spec changed to 5W20 without any changes to the engine. Guess what? No surprise...5W30 shows reduced metal particulate, indicating less wear between changes. The switch to 5W20 was clearly a fuel efficiency move. But it also clearly doesn't protect the internals as well.

The Pentastar V6 was spec'd with 5W30 for years, then magically changed to 0W20 with no changes to the bottom end of the engine? Hmmmm.........

You guys do what you want. I know what I'm going to do.
 

Mr._Bill

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I must have gotten lucky with my FCA vehicles. Wife and I have had them all. BMW, MINI, Nissan, Toyota, Ford, Chevrolet, Jeep, Dodge, Ram, etc... Out of all of them, the Chrysler (now FCA) vehicles have hands down been the most reliable and well built.

As far as Mobil 1 goes, it's the bandwagon effect. It's like Nike shoes or Yeti coolers. They cost more but research proves their are better options on the shelf. Everybody buys them on name recognition alone. No, Mobil 1 doesn't meet FCA spec. Guess what? They don't meet the spec for a lot of auto makers. At least they didn't last time I checked.

Mobil is trying to push "extended drain intervals" as a marketing gimmick these days. Ask BMW how long drain intervals for consumer convenience worked out for them. All those replaced engines later... a new oil change requirement hits the owners manuals.

And as far as engineers knowing what's best.. LOL. An engineer does what the bean counters tell them to do. FCA's goal is to achieve maximum fuel economy to avoid EPA penalty and maximize profit. That is not the same goal the consumer has. The consumer wants an engine that will last the maximum amount of miles before requiring overhaul. I've been doing oil analysis on an engine that was originally spec'd with 5W30 and then over the years the spec changed to 5W20 without any changes to the engine. Guess what? No surprise...5W30 shows reduced metal particulate, indicating less wear between changes. The switch to 5W20 was clearly a fuel efficiency move. But it also clearly doesn't protect the internals as well.

The Pentastar V6 was spec'd with 5W30 for years, then magically changed to 0W20 with no changes to the bottom end of the engine? Hmmmm.........

You guys do what you want. I know what I'm going to do.
What would you suggest for hotter climates, regularly hits 100+ in the summer and only drops below 32 a few days a year? I expected the manual to say 5W30 and was surprised to see 0W20 listed. I still have a couple changes of 15W40 left over from the Silverado Diesel I traded in. The Jeep seems to run hotter than the Diesel did, both engine and transmission.
 

smlobx

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What would you suggest for hotter climates, regularly hits 100+ in the summer and only drops below 32 a few days a year? I expected the manual to say 5W30 and was surprised to see 0W20 listed. I still have a couple changes of 15W40 left over from the Silverado Diesel I traded in. The Jeep seems to run hotter than the Diesel did, both engine and transmission.
i just reviewed the owners manual and as you stated it only recommends 0W-20 regardless of where you live. Having said that there have been reports of people who get better performance out of their engines when using a quality 5w-30 synthetic oil in hotter climates. Many believe that the 0w-20 oil is reccomended in an effort to maximize mileage regardless of the long term effects on the engine.
I would not use a 15w-40 oil in these engines as I believe the oil is too thick and not synthetic.
Just my $0.02...
 

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Hello, I live in California. I just changed the oil myself at 2000 miles. I will do it again at 5000 miles. Then every 4000 miles after that. This is my routine and has served me well over the years. I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 like is specified. The Gladiator Rubicon is the easiest car I have ever had to change the oil. So easy... No jacking required... The oil pan and drain screw is completely un-obscured and the oil will fall easily into a pan when you remove the bolt. The oil filter comes off from on top of the engine and there is no mess. It takes 15 min. max. and is almost impossible to screw up. Watch the videos on oil change for the Penstar motor -- so easy... Thank-you FCA !

PS. Of course you can increase oil weight, but, now it is winter and the motors are still new, so, I plan to run the specified Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20. If you are concerned that this light weight oil does not offer enough protection, then, change the oil more often like I do ---- this will insure that your oil is up to spec. and has not broken down from too many miles.
 
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AggieJim

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There is an opinion that 0W-20W is for fuel economy. However I am looking for objective science on this for Jeeps.

I will keep researching this,

Otherwise, I will use 0W-20W in my Gladiator.
 

smlobx

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Hello, I live in California. I just changed the oil myself at 2000 miles. I will do it again at 5000 miles. Then every 4000 miles after that. This is my routine and has served me well over the years. I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 like is specified. The Gladiator Rubicon is the easiest car I have ever had to change the oil. So easy... No jacking required... The oil pan and drain screw is completely un-obscured and the oil will fall easily into a pan when you remove the bolt. The oil filter comes off from on top of the engine and there is no mess. It takes 15 min. max. and is almost impossible to screw up. Watch the videos on oil change for the Penstar motor -- so easy... Thank-you FCA !

PS. Of course you can increase oil weight, but, now it is winter and the motors are still new, so, I plan to run the specified Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20. If you are concerned that this light weight oil does not offer enough protection, then, change the oil more often like I do ---- this will insure that your oil is up to spec. and has not broken down from too many miles.
I agree although I will probability go longer on my OCI once the engine breaks in.
You might be interested in my OCA done at 2200 miles here.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/first-oil-change-analysis.24475/
 

mazeppa

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<SNIP>

The Pentastar V6 was spec'd with 5W30 for years, then magically changed to 0W20 with no changes to the bottom end of the engine? Hmmmm.........

<SNIP>
From my experience with mine and family 3.6 Penstar V6 Wranglers, the Jeep recommended oil specs progressed (regressed?) from 5w30, 5w20, to now 0w20. Somehow, the 2018 3.6 JL and after magically change from 6 qt. to only 5 qt. fill level. I like the 5 qt. fill for convenience of oil purchase, always an economic dilemma how to handle the extra qt. needed after purchasing a 5 qt. jug of oil.

Note: there are more oil choices available that meet the Chrysler MS-6395 specs with 5w20 and more with 5w30 oils, Valvoline and Pennzoil are the only two I know of for now the meet the Chrysler specs in 0w20.

Lastly: What the heck am I doing reading and posting in an oil thread, 1000 pages easily without a definitive solution and/or agreement!
 

Mr._Bill

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This is from the V2 PDF owners manual. I noticed that they used the word 'recommended' and not 'required' when listing the oil weight to use, and the reason for 0W20 is 'low temperature starting and fuel economy'. But then they say you should not use anything but what is recommended. I also find the synthetic oil section interesting, since my brief search shows that available 0W20 oils are all synthetic

Due to my hot environment, I might switch to a 5W30 Synthetic after I use up all my Jeep Wave oil changes.


Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) — 3.6L Engine

Mopar SAE 0W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy.

The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on engine oil filler cap location, refer to the “Engine Compartment” in this section.

Lubricants which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

Synthetic Engine Oils

You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed.

Synthetic engine oils which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

Materials Added To Engine Oil

The manufacturer strongly recommends against the addition of any additives (other than leak detection dyes) to the engine oil. Engine oil is an engineered product and its performance may be impaired by supplemental additives.
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