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Oil cooler problems 2022 and newer 3.6L pentastar

Lost1wing

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I just use my hands, but I’m messy.
I did my second oil change on my Tahoe 6.2l this morning.

Remove drain plug - wash hands.

Remove filter - wash hands.

Install new filter with a finger lubed seal- wash hands.

Add oil and check the stick - wash hands.

Drain the oil catch pan and put tools away - wash hands.

I never used to clean up so much.
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WILDHOBO

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I did my second oil change on my Tahoe 6.2l this morning.

Remove drain plug - wash hands.

Remove filter - wash hands.

Install new filter with a finger lubed seal- wash hands.

Add oil and check the stick - wash hands.

Drain the oil catch pan and puy tools away - wash hands.

I never used to clean up so much.
Sounds exactly like me. I put fast orange in the utility sink soap dispenser.
 

ChrisNLA

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Sounds exactly like me. I put fast orange in the utility sink soap dispenser.
I don't have an outside sink and the ole lady probably doesn't want me using the brand new kitchen sink like that often 😂

Though, I do now have a complete retired kitchen sink.

So that's probably an upcoming project. Outside washup sink. Build a lil treated wood frame to perch it on.
 

Red Mojave

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I do my own oil changes since discovering that my dealer service department torqued the oil pan drain plug so tight that I had to use a bolt extractor to remove it and replace the now destroyed plug with new. They also way over tightened the filter cap to a point that I’m surprised they didn’t crack the plastic on the housing. Inexcusable work for a Jeep dealer service department.
I hear you, Remy_Dog. The dealer probably tightened my oil plug down with an impact wrench. I tried to change the oil later and I rounded off the plug edges. It took me an hour to get it off with vise grips. I had to buy a new plug of course. I never had my oil changed at the dealer again.
As for the the the oil filter house, I agree with some of the comments…forget about the torque on the oil cooler housing. I use a 1/4” ratchet, adapter to a 24mm socket and just lightly snug it down. You can feel it when it’s snug. The o’ring does the sealing, not the cap.
Good luck
 

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Lost1wing

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I don't have an outside sink and the ole lady probably doesn't want me using the brand new kitchen sink like that often 😂

Though, I do now have a complete retired kitchen sink.

So that's probably an upcoming project. Outside washup sink. Build a lil treated wood frame to perch it on.
I had nice, indoor plumbing in my old shop. Now that my wife decide to relocate, I need to start over with the conveniences of running water. I have an outdoor water spigot at the moment. No hvac yet and I still need to install my lift, so much to do yet.
 

oldironsights

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I used to keep a bar of lava & a bucket of water on my service/rescue truck.
Never had trouble cleaning up after some dirty work.
Bar of lava was cheap, bucket & water was free.

I have not observed any oil leaks @ 62k on my 23 Sport S.
My neighbor has no issues on his 24 Rubi @ 55k miles.
I have observed two of the Dorman replacement oil coolers on failed engines that show galvanic corrosion within the "O" ring bosses on the block.
Given enough time & vibration, the sealing surfaces may grow pits where fluids can pass.
I will be using the factory polymer oil filter/cooler assembly with warranty from a Jeep dealer when mine shows failure.
 
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WILDHOBO

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I don't have an outside sink and the ole lady probably doesn't want me using the brand new kitchen sink like that often 😂

Though, I do now have a complete retired kitchen sink.

So that's probably an upcoming project. Outside washup sink. Build a lil treated wood frame to perch it on.
Now you’re talking
 

Gizmo

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Plastic or aluminum? How did it go? It’s on my proactive list.
The dorman blew out the next day .In all fairness a friend bought the dorman for his JK but was totaled before it was installed so he gave it to me on a Saturday. Being he had it for a while it only came with one O ring for the tube. Jk takes a different size O ring than mine. That may of been the issue with the dorman fail. I ordered a new plastic MOPAR OFA which was identical to my OE. I also chipped off a piece of cast that that may of been part of the original issue. From the research I did i could not find any one who actually first hand seen one actually crack. Mine originally leaked from the base of the OFA. I could not find an O ring that looked bad. Something was odd for it to let go at 18,000 miles. I also went back to the OE style because if it let go it was going to go back to the dealer and play dumb. So far its only got a couple thousand miles since all that BS took place. Im usually to scared to rev it to 3g when the oil pressure goes to 75 psi. Second time changing it is much quicker than the first but I dont like to do things that dont improve something
 

WILDHOBO

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The dorman blew out the next day .In all fairness a friend bought the dorman for his JK but was totaled before it was installed so he gave it to me on a Saturday. Being he had it for a while it only came with one O ring for the tube. Jk takes a different size O ring than mine. That may of been the issue with the dorman fail. I ordered a new plastic MOPAR OFA which was identical to my OE. I also chipped off a piece of cast that that may of been part of the original issue. From the research I did i could not find any one who actually first hand seen one actually crack. Mine originally leaked from the base of the OFA. I could not find an O ring that looked bad. Something was odd for it to let go at 18,000 miles. I also went back to the OE style because if it let go it was going to go back to the dealer and play dumb. So far its only got a couple thousand miles since all that BS took place. Im usually to scared to rev it to 3g when the oil pressure goes to 75 psi. Second time changing it is much quicker than the first but I dont like to do things that dont improve something
Don’t worry about the rpms. Mine loves 5k. I agree. That’s weird that it went that quickly. Thanks for the info. I’ll do some research before automatically going with the Dorman.
 

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Capt.

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I would not unless I was going that deep for another issue or maintenance. The best advice I would give is to not torque ( over torque) the oil filter cap.

I have a few VW TDI engines that have hundreds of thousands of miles with the original plastic cap and o-ring. Yet on the VW forums you hear people complaining of cracked plastic caps and bitch about them being plastic. In reality, someone is using an ungodly amount of torque to lock it down. It is only to be hand tight. The o-ring seals it. Tightening does nothing but break plastic. This is the same concept on the Gladiator 3.6l oil filter cap. The o-ring seals it. It does back off. The o-ring and the threads do a good job of holding it.
Thanks, good point. CaptMitch
 

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I’m hoping to not have to deal with it on the Jeep, but had to replace one on our old Town and Country mini van at a little over 100k miles. It wasn’t too bad…
 

Jrgunn5150

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Dang, I've done 7 oil changes thus far on my 2023 and I'm at 33,000 miles.
Up them numbers. Change it every day. Whats your peace of mind worth? Cheap insurance. DON'T YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR THINGS?!?!
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