Oil Leak

[Tim]

I've got about 93K on my 2020 JTR 3.6. I recently noticed a small oil stain on the driveway under my Jeep. The oil is dripping down between the engine and transmission. I know it is highly unlikely to be a rear main seal as the oil is most likely following the block and seeping down the back of the engine. I already ordered a Dorman aluminum oil cooler replacement and will take care of that myself as I am pretty handy.

As I am nearly at 100k I will for sure replace spark plugs, coils, and flush the coolant. What else should I be doing while I am in there? I read somewhere that the valve covers and/or valve cover gaskets had a TSB at some point. Is that something I should be looking at?

Any insight or advice will be great ly appreciated!

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[oldironsights]

Might be the opportunity to inspect beneath the valve covers, & look for anything loose, damaged or worn.
Those plastic parts & rubber hoses usually only last so many heat cycles.
I am just below 60k on my 23 3.6 with all OK.
That won't last without intervention.

 

[Tim]

You make a valid point, but unless I should be replacing gaskets with upgraded ones I'd rather leave a sleeping dog lie. I do all my own maintenance and I've never seen any indication of metal in my oil. **knock on wood** If the lifters/cams are wearing that will be a project for another time.

Right now I'm more concerned with routine maintenacne items/100k service. I want to take advantage of the intake being off the motor to tackle anything else that's easy to do with everything already diosassembled. I'm going to be into this for a good bit of labor so I don't want to put it all back together just to realize I should have replaced something a few months down the road.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

@StanH just did a whole bunch of stuff having just pulled off his plenum. He did his plugs and coils and I believe his injectors and fuel rail too. There might be a sensor in there too. Let’s ring his door bell and ask what he did and if any regrets he missed something.

 

[Stan H]

I've got about 93K on my 2020 JTR 3.6. I recently noticed a small oil stain on the driveway under my Jeep. The oil is dripping down between the engine and transmission. I know it is highly unlikely to be a rear main seal as the oil is most likely following the block and seeping down the back of the engine. I already ordered a Dorman aluminum oil cooler replacement and will take care of that myself as I am pretty handy.

As I am nearly at 100k I will for sure replace spark plugs, coils, and flush the coolant. What else should I be doing while I am in there? I read somewhere that the valve covers and/or valve cover gaskets had a TSB at some point. Is that something I should be looking at?

Any insight or advice will be great ly appreciated!
[/QUOTE
Replave the PCV valve 100k is when it is due and it literally is an inner rubber seal and then an outter Oring .

 

[Stan H]

@StanH just did a whole bunch of stuff having just pulled off his plenum. He did his plugs and coils and I believe his injectors and fuel rail too. There might be a sensor in there too. Let’s ring his door bell and ask what he did and if any regrets he missed something.

I did plugs , Coil Packs, cam sensors, seals around the high lift solenoid sensors each side . Injectors( they come with new O-rings upper and lower. , seals for plenum , cleaned the EGR, cleaned the plenum,
Previously did cranksensor, map sensor, temp sensor and new thermostat, water pump serpentine accessory belt, PCV valve , O2 sensors ,
If ypu want a few pointers I can help

 

[Lost1wing]

I like the idea of replacing the sparkplugs while doing the oil cooler. Coils on the other hand, seems like just tossing money away. If you are just going to toss money away, I'd then for sure pull the valve covers off to have a look. Not much more work to have peace of mind.

The pcv was updated since the 2020's came out. Someone else mentioned replacing the oil pressure sensor while you are in there.

Save your money on the coils. Worse case, you pull the intake back off.

There is no wrong way here, just what ever makes you comfortable. Cooler, plugs and maybe a look at the cams.

All related seals like Stan has mentioned.

 

[Stan H]

Under t

You make a valid point, but unless I should be replacing gaskets with upgraded ones I'd rather leave a sleeping dog lie. I do all my own maintenance and I've never seen any indication of metal in my oil. **knock on wood** If the lifters/cams are wearing that will be a project for another time.

Right now I'm more concerned with routine maintenacne items/100k service. I want to take advantage of the intake being off the motor to tackle anything else that's easy to do with everything already diosassembled. I'm going to be into this for a good bit of labor so I don't want to put it all back together just to realize I should have replaced something a few months down the road.

Under the plenum you will find bank 2 cam sensor , high lift valve solenoid ( both of mine the seals was hard as flint and leaking seeping) 3 coil packs, the plugs, and easy access to unplug and 2 bolts take EGR off and clean with non chlorinated brake cleaner ( you won't believe how dirty that is . Also clean the throttle body and Plenum with the non chlorinated brake cleaner also.
When you get it all back together just do a throttle body recalibration. Engine in Run position motor not running push down slow to the floor hold a second or 2 then back up in about 10 seconds . Turn power off then go for a short drive .

 

[Stan H]

You make a valid point, but unless I should be replacing gaskets with upgraded ones I'd rather leave a sleeping dog lie. I do all my own maintenance and I've never seen any indication of metal in my oil. **knock on wood** If the lifters/cams are wearing that will be a project for another time.

Right now I'm more concerned with routine maintenacne items/100k service. I want to take advantage of the intake being off the motor to tackle anything else that's easy to do with everything already diosassembled. I'm going to be into this for a good bit of labor so I don't want to put it all back together just to realize I should have replaced something a few months down the road.

Also once the Darth Vader hood is off .
Right on the back of the top of the plastic plenum it tells ypu what the torque specification is . 9nm. Additionally that can be looked up. This is a job as was told to me by @WILDHOBO to be done with a ¼ inch ratchet . 9nm is like slightly snug . The seals fit in the intake and then the plenum is flat and squeezes against those seals and they are silicone. It is a very small amount . Don't over tighten.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Also once the Darth Vader hood is off .
Right on the back of the top of the plastic plenum it tells ypu what the torque specification is . 9nm. Additionally that can be looked up. This is a job as was told to me by @WILDHOBO to be done with a ¼ inch ratchet . 9nm is like slightly snug . The seals fit in the intake and then the plenum is flat and squeezes against those seals and they are silicone. It is a very small amount . Don't over tighten.

Was there some sort of seal grease applied to hold the in place?

 

[Stan H]

Was there some sort of seal grease applied to hold the in place?

The plenum seals have 4 small ridges on them ,Uncle had O-ring and seal lube. This helps to get them in place and allows you to line up the little ridge in the groove. It just takes a super small amount a meager wiping.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Also once the Darth Vader hood is off .
Right on the back of the top of the plastic plenum it tells ypu what the torque specification is . 9nm. Additionally that can be looked up. This is a job as was told to me by @WILDHOBO to be done with a ¼ inch ratchet . 9nm is like slightly snug . The seals fit in the intake and then the plenum is flat and squeezes against those seals and they are silicone. It is a very small amount . Don't over tighten.

Yep. Common sense snug. I won’t even use a torque wrench on plastic.

 

[Tim]

Under t

Under the plenum you will find bank 2 cam sensor , high lift valve solenoid ( both of mine the seals was hard as flint and leaking seeping) 3 coil packs, the plugs, and easy access to unplug and 2 bolts take EGR off and clean with non chlorinated brake cleaner ( you won't believe how dirty that is . Also clean the throttle body and Plenum with the non chlorinated brake cleaner also.
When you get it all back together just do a throttle body recalibration. Engine in Run position motor not running push down slow to the floor hold a second or 2 then back up in about 10 seconds . Turn power off then go for a short drive .

Sounds good. The valve covers look wet around the cam position sensors so I ordered those seals. I also ordered a PCV valve. I didn't order injectors...

 

[WILDHOBO]

Sounds good. The valve covers look wet around the cam position sensors so I ordered those seals. I also ordered a PCV valve. I didn't order injectors...

Those oil seals are a known problem. They need to redesign them. I’ve replaced both and I’m pretty sure they’re leaking already.

 

[Tim]

I like the idea of replacing the sparkplugs while doing the oil cooler. Coils on the other hand, seems like just tossing money away. If you are just going to toss money away, I'd then for sure pull the valve covers off to have a look. Not much more work to have peace of mind.

The pcv was updated since the 2020's came out. Someone else mentioned replacing the oil pressure sensor while you are in there.

Save your money on the coils. Worse case, you pull the intake back off.

There is no wrong way here, just what ever makes you comfortable. Cooler, plugs and maybe a look at the cams.

All related seals like Stan has mentioned.

Yeah you're right. I don't want to piss money away on stuff that's not needed. There's always the chance that a new part is defective. No need to risk replacing working parts for no reason.

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