Oil Pan Gasket?

[Lost1wing]

I'd look deeper using a flush with these VVT engines. I wouldn't just go dumping stuff in. I had only mentioned it cause of the way your pan looked. I have only used a flush once. The reason for that was because I switched from s conventional oil to synthetic. I assumed our Jeeps came with synthetic so I just continued with the brand I use, without doing a flush.

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[Charles 236]

I'd look deeper using a flush with these VVT engines. I wouldn't just go dumping stuff in. I had only mentioned it cause of the way your pan looked. I have only used a flush once. The reason for that was because I switched from s conventional oil to synthetic. I assumed our Jeeps came with synthetic so I just continued with the brand I use, without doing a flush.

The 3.6 used in the Gladiator is factory filled with synthetic oil. I have seen the inside of more Pentastar engines (both original and Pentastar Upgrade engines) than I can count, and it is rare to see sludge building up in them. I have never tried to flush the oiling system in one of these engines, but many years ago I occasionally flushed old engines using ATF or even kerosene in severely sludged engines while hot and idling. This was always a "last ditch, if this doesn't help then it has to come apart" type thing. Seeing the inside of some of those old engines is one of the reasons I switched to synthetic oils and more frequent service intervals. Of course, vehicle usage plays a part in how frequent maintenance needs to be performed.

 

[Lost1wing]

I have used this before. The direction are similar to the oem sealer. Get it torqued within an hour.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Don't do a flush, do what Lake does - change the oil, drive it a little bit, then change it again.
Mixing oils can actually REDUCE wear protection and kill some detergents.
He, and another SAE engineer, agree, mixing can be bad. And when we say mix, we mean not only using whatever is on the shelf, 3 of 1 and 2 of another, or 4 quarts of 0w20 and 1 quart of 5w30 for example - bad. Even if it's the same BRAND, it's different chemistries.
He and another guy, as well as oil companies, say do not not mix.
And if you decide to change to a different oil, do a double change.
Change to your new oil, with new filter, run a bit, then change oil and filter AGAIN.
That's Lake's "flushing". And it works - his lab results show differences..

Mixing viscosities, mixing brands, mixing anything, can literally result in less wear protection and possible defeating of the detergents.
Do people get by? Of course they do! One well-known and popular person here uses whatever he has or what's on sale, or whatever, and he mixes - even in the same change.
But - it's a risk, and it's been proven that it's a risk to engine protection.

If you don't keep it 100,000 miles, you won't care.
If you plan on keeping it, you might.
But chemistry and Lake's dyno and lab testing, as well as another engineer I won't mention all say - don't do it - don't mix, and, do a double change if you change your mind on the oil you are going to use.

 

[Stan H]

Don't do a flush, do what Lake does - change the oil, drive it a little bit, then change it again.
Mixing oils can actually REDUCE wear protection and kill some detergents.
He, and another SAE engineer, agree, mixing can be bad. And when we say mix, we mean not only using whatever is on the shelf, 3 of 1 and 2 of another, or 4 quarts of 0w20 and 1 quart of 5w30 for example - bad. Even if it's the same BRAND, it's different chemistries.
He and another guy, as well as oil companies, say do not not mix.
And if you decide to change to a different oil, do a double change.
Change to your new oil, with new filter, run a bit, then change oil and filter AGAIN.
That's Lake's "flushing". And it works - his lab results show differences..

Mixing viscosities, mixing brands, mixing anything, can literally result in less wear protection and possible defeating of the detergents.
Do people get by? Of course they do! One well-known and popular person here uses whatever he has or what's on sale, or whatever, and he mixes - even in the same change.
But - it's a risk, and it's been proven that it's a risk to engine protection.

If you don't keep it 100,000 miles, you won't care.
If you plan on keeping it, you might.
But chemistry and Lake's dyno and lab testing, as well as another engineer I won't mention all say - don't do it - don't mix, and, do a double change if you change your mind on the oil you are going to use.

Agree heavily

 

[Lost1wing]

Don't do a flush, do what Lake does - change the oil, drive it a little bit, then change it again.
Mixing oils can actually REDUCE wear protection and kill some detergents.
He, and another SAE engineer, agree, mixing can be bad. And when we say mix, we mean not only using whatever is on the shelf, 3 of 1 and 2 of another, or 4 quarts of 0w20 and 1 quart of 5w30 for example - bad. Even if it's the same BRAND, it's different chemistries.
He and another guy, as well as oil companies, say do not not mix.
And if you decide to change to a different oil, do a double change.
Change to your new oil, with new filter, run a bit, then change oil and filter AGAIN.
That's Lake's "flushing". And it works - his lab results show differences..

Mixing viscosities, mixing brands, mixing anything, can literally result in less wear protection and possible defeating of the detergents.
Do people get by? Of course they do! One well-known and popular person here uses whatever he has or what's on sale, or whatever, and he mixes - even in the same change.
But - it's a risk, and it's been proven that it's a risk to engine protection.

If you don't keep it 100,000 miles, you won't care.
If you plan on keeping it, you might.
But chemistry and Lake's dyno and lab testing, as well as another engineer I won't mention all say - don't do it - don't mix, and, do a double change if you change your mind on the oil you are going to use.

I'm not an advocate on doing oil system flushes either. Looking at the photo Maximus Gladius posted , I'd be worried about the rest of the internals. Had he never drop the pan, he would have a clue what is going on inside. I can see a benefit doing a flush in his case after the big review.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm not an advocate on doing oil system flushes either. Looking at the photo Maximus Gladius posted , I'd be worried about the rest of the internals. Had he never drop the pan, he would have a clue what is going on inside. I can see a benefit doing a flush in his case after the big review.

I wonder what it looks like under valve covers.
Enough of that get loose and into the pan could restrict the screen.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This just reinforces my thoughts that -
I will not move to Canada
And
I will not change my name to "Kevin"

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Took some photos with the bore scope guys! I’ve got the pan on, hand tight, waiting up 45 min to torque so here’s some photos for your advice/comments

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Some more shots:

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Is this evidence of blow by?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This (pic below) bugs me. I know that the spray will cause differences in appearance because of the fact, gee, it's being sprayed with oil, but that sort of varnish on the cylinder wall?
I'd love to see what the top side of a cylinder looks like, piston mostly down stroke.

Perhaps I'm seeing the normal piston skirt tilt against the cylinder wall wiping the varnish off and keeping that area cleaner, but in any case, that's a whole lot of varnish for modern oils and modern fuels in newer engine designs.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is this evidence of blow by?

Makes me wonder if there's something going on, getting past rings and causing that coking of the oil (carbon deposits) and the varnish in a pattern like that. It's a bad look for a modern engine with those miles/kilos.

It reminds me of a 100,000 miles 4.0 where the oil ran out black and thick like it had never been changed.

 

[Vtur]

Once you sealed up the pan, I recommend performs a compression test cold and again warm. Do another hot oil change after a couple hundred miles. Ensure not to overfill. Check PCV valve as well.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Once you sealed up the pan, I recommend performs a compression test cold and again warm. Do another hot oil change after a couple hundred miles. Ensure not to overfill.

Yes - sounds like good advice.

I'd wonder - which cylinders were we looking at, or was it a random assortment left and right bank?
The warm compression check may be tough since it takes a bit to get to the left bank of plugs to remove them - it would be cooled down a bit by then.
Other side, more easily done.

I'm concerned about that engine, especially the coking of the oil/carbon bits, and the amount and patterns of the varnish.
Man, I hate to even think that with the troubles Kevin has had!

LOL - he knows about over-filled engines!
6 quarts does nothing, these will easily handle that with no issues at all, but over that, like he found his once, all bets off.
I have a feeling he's one member rather sensitive to that word "overfill". I can see him out there now verifying the exact amount of oil that comes out of each container and contacting the Canadian bureau of standards for verification.

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