Pitman arm nut seized!

[WILDHOBO]

Late to the party, but slicing nearly all the way through and then tapping the gap with a chisel would've been the least risky and least costly move here. A new nut is way less $$$ than all the tools that have been bought and destroyed here.

I agree. Depending on the cutting tools the op has. Edit. A hack saw works. Just time and muscle.

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[rharr]

I am still perplexed why this has turned into a thesis on over solving the problem. Cutting nuts, cutting pitman arms, buying induction heaters, buying 1700ftlb impact guns, ect..

The issue at hand is the nut is being stubborn because of red loctite that has hardened, and won't release without heat.

Using a big socket, a breaker bar, a pipe and a blow torch is all that is needed. You will need to hit the nut with heat a few times cause it will cool as you unscrew and the loctite will reset but it's not that hard.

It took me longer to source a big socket in town then to get the damn nut loose.

 

[Lunentucker]

For future thread surfers....

1-11/16" works too

 

[NC_Overland]

Mine was loose from the factory. 18 inch 1/2 inch wrench and a 42mm socket took it off with out even having to resort to cussing.

Mine was loose after they replaced my steering gear. Almost hand tight. I drove from Raleigh to Atlanta shortly after and my steering was getting really loose. I pulled in my dad’s garage to check it and I was shocked at how loose it was. I was so mad.

 

[rharr]

Mine was loose after they replaced my steering gear. Almost hand tight. I drove from Raleigh to Atlanta shortly after and my steering was getting really loose. I pulled in my dad’s garage to check it and I was shocked at how loose it was. I was so mad.

Yeap need to reapply red loctite when you reinstall. Some think a few extra ugah dugahs from the gun will do....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

May nick the threads on the steering gear shaft but they are coarse enough it should not matter

It won't matter - you should see the instructions for pitman arm replacement in 1980s TSMs - use a PUNCH to ding the threads so the nut can't back off the shaft.


It won't matter a lick because of the number of threads and how the force is spread.

Bar directly in the socket will be best. I've got a 3' pipe I put over the end of my 3/4" breaker bar.

No impact on things with gears - it would hammer them together. This is also a case of slow, steady pressure being better.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Mine was loose after they replaced my steering gear. Almost hand tight. I drove from Raleigh to Atlanta shortly after and my steering was getting really loose. I pulled in my dad’s garage to check it and I was shocked at how loose it was. I was so mad.

The 3rd or 4th iteration of the TSB finally said that they must use a new nut in the process and included it in the parts list. Techs were using that one-time-use nut over and over. So STAR had to spell it out - USE A NEW NUT (which has locking compound in the threads)
Several people ran into that issue of them not following directions and re-using that nut.

 

[DanJT]

Y

You are loosing a lot of energy using such a long extension. Something that long will twist like a spring. Just use the breaker bar and socket directly and put a pipe on the breaker bar to get more leverage.

Wasn't much past the suspension, I have a shorter one but it's hitting drag link.

 

[DanJT]

I am still perplexed why this has turned into a thesis on over solving the problem. Cutting nuts, cutting pitman arms, buying induction heaters, buying 1700ftlb impact guns, ect..

The issue at hand is the nut is being stubborn because of red loctite that has hardened, and won't release without heat.

Using a big socket, a breaker bar, a pipe and a blow torch is all that is needed. You will need to hit the nut with heat a few times cause it will cool as you unscrew and the loctite will reset but it's not that hard.

It took me longer to source a big socket in town then to get the damn nut loose.

I have used all of the above. My induction heater was delivered this morning, but the thing didn't work . Time to cut that b#@ch!

 

[ecidiego]

Almost hand tight.

Mine was hand tight off the dealer lot. Noticed a clunk for a few months when backing down my driveway, took awhile to figure it out. Finally inspected it, it wasn't even flush with the arm. I grabbed it with my hand and it spun. Stock. Freaking nuts...

 

[NC_Overland]

Mine was hand tight off the dealer lot. Noticed a clunk for a few months when backing down my driveway, took awhile to figure it out. Finally inspected it, it wasn't even flush with the arm. I grabbed it with my hand and it spun. Stock. Freaking nuts...

Pun intended?

 

[DanJT]

Ok here's an update, skimmed the threads on but barely. Thanks for all the tips and jokes!

 

[Sweetums]

You can clean up those threads with the right die, or just use a small file (harbor freight sells sets for cheap) and carefully de-burr the threads if you have trouble getting the new nut on.

I'm happy for anyone who manages to get their nut off.

 

[ttn333]

Late to the party, but slicing nearly all the way through and then tapping the gap with a chisel would've been the least risky and least costly move here. A new nut is way less $$$ than all the tools that have been bought and destroyed here.

Then we wouldn't have 5 pages of comments. What the hell am I supposed to do at the office?

 

[DanJT]

You can clean up those threads with the right die, or just use a small file (harbor freight sells sets for cheap) and carefully de-burr the threads if you have trouble getting the new nut on.

I'm happy for anyone who manages to get their nut off.

I beat it enough, be a damn shame
If I didn't get it off!!

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