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Reaching out to those doing their own shock tuning?

kgc

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Here's a quick clip of what prompted the revalve - the front is tracking okay, but the rear is just bouncing like mad and it's obvious the shocks are way undervalved. When the truck jerks to the right - I think that was a combination of the rear gaining and losing traction as the truck bounced, combined with letting off the throttle and getting some instant oversteer. The jerk and recovery LOOK way worse than it felt in the truck...
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CrazyCooter

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I am running Rock Jock 2.5 springs in the rear, and Synergy 4" springs in the front. (both designed for gas engines) The synergy's are softer than I'd prefer but were the only springs I could find at the time with enough free length for my setup. I have the 4.5-6" shocks, 2" bumpstop spacers, and Fox air bumps up front. In the rear I am running a 1-⅛" bump stop spacer and the factory bumps. I should be getting 12" up front and 14" in the rear, and at rest I get very close to 6" of shock shaft showing front and rear, which means I'm pretty close to 50% uptravel (I know the rear leverage ratio changes with the shock's relative angle, but trig was my worst topic in math.

I don't think the compression stack in the picture is a true double flutter.... The last three shims are .7x.020, .8x.020 and .8x020, I think the .7 would be the base shim and none of them would flex at all - just spacing the stack away from the rate plate, no? I'll PM you more info on the stacks.

The rear of the truck is riding really well. Just a bit of a jolt at initial compression - like when hitting a speed hump at 20-25mph. I'm wondering if the adding the bleed shim back in would make a difference there.

It is so cool that you're on revalve #15 - your rebound stack looks crazy at first glance, but knowing you put in the time to get to that 3x 1.6x.015 setup makes me think that it is right!
Ya, those Synergy springs are the softest of the bunch? I'm right at 50/50 travel as well and it seems to be the magic number. I'm getting the diesel 3/.5 Clayton diesel springs which are 216lb.

I can help you much with with the rear without knowing spring rates and or video which I see in your next post but I only get the audio. Maybe on my tab at home I can see it. Looks like Currie's are double rate and free length is slightly longer than Clayton. Makes me thing the first rate might be lighter and the second rate might be firmer?

True those .700x.020/.800x.020's aren't going to flex so they are more softening up the high speed and keeping the rest of the stack off the plate. Is your initial jolt on the speed bump from not enough high speed damping? Does the chassis rise at all when hitting it?

I came to this rebound stack after installing a 1.6 x .020 and loved it for street driving, but it packed a bit on speed bumps at 60mph. Then I went to the (3) .012's to split the difference between .015 and .020 which I hated on the street for aggressive driving from not enough rebound. I then decided I needed to bring more rebound in but add the flutter. I figured the flutter would reduce whatever was at the bottom of the stack some, so I decided to stack (3) .015's act like a .022" shim and put the flutter in. Then it was again too soft rebound. I then moved the flutter up one and it feels OK on the street but have yet to retest on that same hit I posted up in the video. This could be a product of my Clayton triple rate springs and wouldn't do you any good?

If you want to figure out a multiple shim stack thickness........Say you want to mimic a .020 with .010's

.020/.010 = 2......Now cube it 2x2x2=8. it would take (8) .010's to equal a single .020 shim. I do think it's better to use multiple thinner shims than it is to use a single thick for longevity too. I figure a single thick shim will break after fewer cycles than many thins?

I did my first tuning without the bleed shims being active because I found out later than I was clocking them incorrectly and I had it pretty good this way! I then decided to order bleed shim to cut the bleed in half and at the time I was installing them, I figured out that I had 0 bleed. Adding in bleed required that I revalve everything stiffer since bleed was re-introduced. So note my settings are with a different bleed than the shock came with. This way I can control body roll and light slow movements with the bleed and then be more agressive with the low speed valving to control head bobble and body roll when the tent or motorcycle is on the truck or I'm towing.
 
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Rusty PW

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I was expecting the General Lee. At least 6 ft off the ground. Kind of disappointed. LOL
 
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CrazyCooter

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Don't get me wrong.......I usually jump and wheelie everything I own at some time of another, but I have too much time and money in this truck to trash it.
 

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Don't get me wrong.......I usually jump and wheelie everything I own at some time of another, but I have too much time and money in this truck to trash it.
Sarcasm. 4 tires on the ground.
 

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New video today after moving the flutter. Id say she is done for now!
Glad you have it to a point where you are happy with it! A ton of effort, and a ton of trial an error on your part, and very helpful that you are sharing this info!

Now that you've hit a point where you are satisfied with the results, what would be really great is if you could share a summary of the before and after configurations, and a summary of the issues you were addressing and the mods that fixed it for you. Doesn't have to be a blow-by-blow of the 15 tunes (wow!), but more of a before/after summary.

Thanks again for all you've shared, and congrats!
 
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CrazyCooter

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Glad you have it to a point where you are happy with it! A ton of effort, and a ton of trial an error on your part, and very helpful that you are sharing this info!

Now that you've hit a point where you are satisfied with the results, what would be really great is if you could share a summary of the before and after configurations, and a summary of the issues you were addressing and the mods that fixed it for you. Doesn't have to be a blow-by-blow of the 15 tunes (wow!), but more of a before/after summary.

Thanks again for all you've shared, and congrats!
I could show all of that, but honestly it really wouldn't matter to anyone unless they were running the exact same springs and weights as me.

Every time I've had it good, I went and changed something and it all went out the window! 2-3 times to get it right afterward.

After going through this process and what I've seen in the 30 years of being in this industry, I'll never buy an off the shelf shock that I can't tune. Its just that satisfying loving how you vehicle drives......

I let a client drive it on Thursday who is considering buying a JT. He came back with a big smile on his face calling me an asshole for costing him so much money...... :) Thats what I do......show you how good it can be so I can take your money!
 
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CrazyCooter

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Here's a quick clip of what prompted the revalve - the front is tracking okay, but the rear is just bouncing like mad and it's obvious the shocks are way undervalved. When the truck jerks to the right - I think that was a combination of the rear gaining and losing traction as the truck bounced, combined with letting off the throttle and getting some instant oversteer. The jerk and recovery LOOK way worse than it felt in the truck...
Came back to check this out and I cant get the video part to play on any of my computers or tabs?
 

kgc

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Maybe this link will work? https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ddsLPaVwvvHO40ADPb8JC9RA

Here is a still shot of the maximum "buck"
Jeep Gladiator Reaching out to those doing their own shock tuning? F287FECD-B50A-450B-BA4F-9467873268CF


I've been MIA on this thread as well as revalving the front and searching for stiffer front springs. Was busy getting my Moto ready for a trip to Moab - I didn't have much time to Jeep in Moab but I did get a good run in on Poison Spider. Took it much faster than I should have, thanks to the rear suspension being so poised. The truck did tow an enclosed trailer with 4 dirt bikes and gear and handled like a champ. Power was a little weak climbing up the Mountains from Phoenix to Flagstaff and I had a terrible headwind coming back through the Navajo Nation that really killed speed and gas mileage. Overall I'm super impressed that it confidently towed 900 miles, did Poison Spider aggressively and without issue, and towed all the way back home without a problem. What a great truck!
 

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CrazyCooter

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Maybe this link will work? https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ddsLPaVwvvHO40ADPb8JC9RA

Here is a still shot of the maximum "buck"
F287FECD-B50A-450B-BA4F-9467873268CF.jpeg


I've been MIA on this thread as well as revalving the front and searching for stiffer front springs. Was busy getting my Moto ready for a trip to Moab - I didn't have much time to Jeep in Moab but I did get a good run in on Poison Spider. Took it much faster than I should have, thanks to the rear suspension being so poised. The truck did tow an enclosed trailer with 4 dirt bikes and gear and handled like a champ. Power was a little weak climbing up the Mountains from Phoenix to Flagstaff and I had a terrible headwind coming back through the Navajo Nation that really killed speed and gas mileage. Overall I'm super impressed that it confidently towed 900 miles, did Poison Spider aggressively and without issue, and towed all the way back home without a problem. What a great truck!
Thats moving pretty good! Did you almost swap out from the rear hopping up? Looks like it needs more rebound damping?
 
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CrazyCooter

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I swapped out to the front diesel springs last week. I also added rebound/took out low speed comp in the front shocks knowing I would want those changes at the same time with springs being 10% firmer.

Tried another compression shim stack I've never seen done that I envision will improve that slow speed damping when traveling idle to maybe 15mph aired down while still allowing a compliant ride.

Now thinking I can swap out to the lighter front sway bar link springs to reduce the increased firmness when one tire rises from a bump caused by the firmer springs and get a nicer compliant ride on the dirt/desert terrain.

Tore apart the front air bump that was leaking, but it looks like I need another tool to properly bleed the air from under the IFP. Had a look at the valving while I was in there and have a plan for that too.

Harshness while towing is gone! Drove 100 miles round trip fully loaded with my Husky 701 in the bed while towing the 19' GeoPro over combined pavement and 24 miles of gravel forest road at 34psi. Pretty happy with the rear now.

Tired of working on it, but the drive just keeps getting better!
 

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I swapped out to the front diesel springs last week. I also added rebound/took out low speed comp in the front shocks knowing I would want those changes at the same time with springs being 10% firmer.

Tried another compression shim stack I've never seen done that I envision will improve that slow speed damping when traveling idle to maybe 15mph aired down while still allowing a compliant ride.

Now thinking I can swap out to the lighter front sway bar link springs to reduce the increased firmness when one tire rises from a bump caused by the firmer springs and get a nicer compliant ride on the dirt/desert terrain.

Tore apart the front air bump that was leaking, but it looks like I need another tool to properly bleed the air from under the IFP. Had a look at the valving while I was in there and have a plan for that too.

Harshness while towing is gone! Drove 100 miles round trip fully loaded with my Husky 701 in the bed while towing the 19' GeoPro over combined pavement and 24 miles of gravel forest road at 34psi. Pretty happy with the rear now.

Tired of working on it, but the drive just keeps getting better!
Did you go from from Clayton 3.5 gas front springs to 3.5 diesel? How you liking the firmness of the diesel fronts?
 
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CrazyCooter

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Did you go from from Clayton 3.5 gas front springs to 3.5 diesel? How you liking the firmness of the diesel fronts?
Yes, swapped diesel for gas.

It was worth .75" in height and notable firmness. I am now running the lightest springs in the front sway bar links.

Have yet to really test it off road unloaded crawling or at speed. The rear feels borderline soft now.......
 

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Yes, swapped diesel for gas.

...The rear feels borderline soft now.......
You have clayton diesel springs in the rear and still think they are borderline soft? What length? Are they soft for you for general driving, or only when loaded/towing? Thinking of going with the HD when they are released?

I've got the 2.5 clayton diesel and think they are plenty stiff for normal to full-payload loads. Soft when towing, but I think I've got my load distributing hitch putting too much tongue wt. on since I lifted... so need to adjust that first.
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