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Rockslide engineering step slider tooling marks anyone noticed this?

Sargegreen22

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Received my rockslide step sliders and there appears to be lines from the metal brake or whatever is used to form these. Has anybody that owns these noticed this on yours?

Jeep Gladiator Rockslide engineering step slider tooling marks anyone noticed this? CB73C8EC-43F0-48C5-B2C1-0F143B67D298


Jeep Gladiator Rockslide engineering step slider tooling marks anyone noticed this? 4F87A676-FD66-41E9-9F3F-27F84106898A


Jeep Gladiator Rockslide engineering step slider tooling marks anyone noticed this? FA9B8862-97D9-4336-9FD2-61986583DC87
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WILDHOBO

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I’ll have to look.
 

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not on mine
 

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Bottom die of a brake press usually makes those. Unless they use a silicone cover over it. Could be also from using to small of a bottom die as well.
 

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Sargegreen22

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Thanks for the replies. I emailed there warranty dept and of course they said this is normal. Whatever this is from they should prep the metal better before powder coat. Guess I expected more for 2600+bucks. ☹
 

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Thanks for the replies. I emailed there warranty dept and of course they said this is normal. Whatever this is from they should prep the metal better before powder coat. Guess I expected more for 2600+bucks. ☹
The nice thing is you will LOVE these. I can’t believe I went as long as I did before getting them. Game changer with kids. They step on the main body anyway as step one, so mine will end up with boot scratches in no time. I get less mud on the door handles now as well. Not none, but less. :)
 

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Whatever this is from they should prep the metal better before powder coat. Guess I expected more for 2600+bucks.
It has nothing to do with prepping, and all they do before powdercoating is clean. Powder conforms to any little imperfection, more than paint. I only powdercoat certain restorations if the surfaces are perfect. You can't prep away such marks without machine removal of material. Few fillers will handle the temperatures of powdercoating. I do powdercoating myself of small parts ( and some not so small as long as they fit in my oven)

Frankly, even though I'm very OCD and a perfectionist, because it's uniform, neat, straight and consistent, it wouldn't bother me at all. It has no impact on strength or integrity, and frankly, looks like it belongs there, to me. Like it was made in a machine. I also figure, some things like that, since they are perfect, straight, and consistent, are part of the actual design of the product.
I'd complain if they didn't work or were physically damaged or bent in some way.
 

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Frankly, even though I'm very OCD and a perfectionist, because it's uniform, neat, straight and consistent, it wouldn't bother me at all. It has no impact on strength or integrity, and frankly, looks like it belongs there, to me. Like it was made in a machine. I also figure, some things like that, since they are perfect, straight, and consistent, are part of the actual design of the product.
I'd complain if they didn't work or were physically damaged or bent in some way.
Well said, my thoughts exactly!!!
 

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Sargegreen22

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It has nothing to do with prepping, and all they do before powdercoating is clean. Powder conforms to any little imperfection, more than paint. I only powdercoat certain restorations if the surfaces are perfect. You can't prep away such marks without machine removal of material. Few fillers will handle the temperatures of powdercoating. I do powdercoating myself of small parts ( and some not so small as long as they fit in my oven)

Frankly, even though I'm very OCD and a perfectionist, because it's uniform, neat, straight and consistent, it wouldn't bother me at all. It has no impact on strength or integrity, and frankly, looks like it belongs there, to me. Like it was made in a machine. I also figure, some things like that, since they are perfect, straight, and consistent, are part of the actual design of the product.
I'd complain if they didn't work or were physically damaged or bent in some way.

I’m assuming since you commented on this post you own a set of these steps right? Do yours have these perfect symmetrical lines you refer to? I doubt it, lol.
And no these lines aren’t all the same or part of their grand design theme. Some are barley there and some are deep and pronounced. As others have said, theirs do not have these.

So to your point about prep work. If you drop of a part to a powder coating company. They aren’t going to do much other than media blast old parts or phosphate wash new metal. You are correct if there is a blemish in the metal when you drop it off it’s still going to show through the powder or be highlighted even. It’s different however when you are the manufacturer of a part. It’s reasonable to say your going to grind or sand any slag or imperfections out of your product before you coat it right? Even the best plasma cutters, water jets and welders leave imperfections that have to be removed.
 

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lol I'll check later today, but I haven't noticed this on my own. These things are amazing either way.
 

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I’m assuming since you commented on this post you own a set of these steps right? Do yours have these perfect symmetrical lines you refer to? I doubt it, lol.
And no these lines aren’t all the same or part of their grand design theme. Some are barley there and some are deep and pronounced. As others have said, theirs do not have these.

So to your point about prep work. If you drop of a part to a powder coating company. They aren’t going to do much other than media blast old parts or phosphate wash new metal. You are correct if there is a blemish in the metal when you drop it off it’s still going to show through the powder or be highlighted even. It’s different however when you are the manufacturer of a part. It’s reasonable to say your going to grind or sand any slag or imperfections out of your product before you coat it right? Even the best plasma cutters, water jets and welders leave imperfections that have to be removed.
I don't yet own them - I was holding off to see if I end up with a trade, etc. - but my wife and I have talked about them for months and depending on how things swing in the next weeks, those are the ones I'd get. And seeing those pictures doesn't dissuade me from choosing that company and that product.
They aren't going to grind or sand those off.
Slag, yeah, but not perfectly if you look at some of the welds on other Jeep accessories. check out other products, like the receiver skids, etc. Some of those are hardly perfect.
It's one thing to touch up welds and cuts (and even those aren't always perfect) but another to remove tool marks like that.
A person can take a small grinder and in seconds remove cut marks or slag (depending on the location)

I do restorations, people expect things to be perfect (that's why I now have two auto restoration shops sending me things) and I flat out tell them - sometimes it's just not possible, or not feasible, or not economically feasible. Some will say do it anyway and will write me the check and not flinch. I let them know how it is, and generally, they say "do whatever it takes", so I charge them and they happily pay.
But will people pay extra to ensure there's not so much as a blemish of any sort on those parts? Especially when that blemish is a tool mark, not a gouge or dent or scraped off finish?

Gotta ask, other than them preventing such marks to begin with - how would you recommend they remove those marks and not reduce the gauge of the metal or otherwise compromise the integrity of the design for strength?
You are in a sense suggesting they scrap those parts any time there's a tool mark like that.
 

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It’s reasonable to say your going to grind or sand any slag or imperfections out of your product before you coat it right?
No, not really, not in manufacturing. I've toured plants - auto and other, I've watched the work. My father was a UAW member, worked in a factory and became chief inspector for a few years. I know what passes and what doesn't. Take a really close look, even at the welds on your truck. The body pinch welds are robotic and pretty well perfect and perfectly spaced, but frame and other welds, no so much. Some are almost messy. I can likely go out to my shop and find something with machine and tool marks and rough welds, and even imperfect finish because of slag and weld spatter.
 

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I mean it's armor. Armor is intended to be damaged so it's pretty pointless for a company to ensure every piece that comes out of the shop is cosmetically perfect. As was said, slag is simple but removing tooling marks is a labor intensive manual process which would even more cost to the item.
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