RSI Smartcap

Shane P.

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Could someone please measure from the bed surface to the bottom of the door opening? I'm trying to design a drawer system and cant seem to find that measurement anywhere.





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Jaxmax

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Huh?
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Is this what you want, tape measure is on the lowest point of floor not on the raised rib?....jack
 

Jaxmax

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I’m not so sure a 60” drawer glide will fit I ordered a 48” full extension.....Jack
 

tjbrown23

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Just installed the Smartcap over the Decked drawers. Happy customer.

Winch and LED cannons inbound for the bumper.

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How much room do you have from the top of the decked drawers to the top of the rsi cap? I have the decked system installed just waiting on the cap.
 

WemoVealot

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How much room do you have from the top of the decked drawers to the top of the rsi cap? I have the decked system installed just waiting on the cap.
Just over 25 inches. I’m waiting to receive and install the slide out table before getting a fridge ... apparently it takes 8” from the top to slide the table out (ouch).
Hope this helps :)
 

tjbrown23

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Just over 25 inches. I’m waiting to receive and install the slide out table before getting a fridge ... apparently it takes 8” from the top to slide the table out (ouch).
Hope this helps :)
Thanks that helps! Dang that still isn't much room, the decked system is nice but it takes up almost the whole bed. I just wish the bed was a bit deeper.

How hard is it to remove the RSI smartcap if I needed to haul something large, is it manageable with one person?
 

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Thanks that helps! Dang that still isn't much room, the decked system is nice but it takes up almost the whole bed. I just wish the bed was a bit deeper.

How hard is it to remove the RSI smartcap if I needed to haul something large, is it manageable with one person?
The cap weighs about 180 pounds. RSI recommends four people for lifting it onto the truck. With the appropriate hoist setup, one person should be able to handle it. Using the Trail Rail clamps, it should be easy to remove.
 

NORDNDED

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Well it showed up, damaged of course. Whoever thought the way it is packaged would suffice for transportation halfway around the world should be fired.. There is zero protection for the roof panels box corners both inside and out and the whole box was banded to the side of the main box allowing it to drag the floor. If they had put half the effort into packaging that they did in the social media hype then this would be a non-issue.

I’m most likely sending it back since @RSI North America Inc did not answer my question on availability of new panels, I don’t want a repaired roof. We’ll see what ORA comes up with in terms of replacement but damn, how disappointing this is after being on board since the springtime..
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Well I ended up keeping it and repairing it myself. After reforming the corner and tig welding it back together I touched up and blended the paint with Summit Racing satin chassis black. Altogether about 8 hours of work and $50 in materials. I did not fix the dent shown in the first pic, it’ll be there forever.
After putting it together and installing it I can say for certain that I’m glad I did not send it back. I absolutely love this cap and cannot wait to get my Alu Cab tent up there later this week.
For anyone else who receives a damaged roof panel, I’d say that as long as it does not require welding like mine did, that I would keep it. The way they are assembled ends up pulling and aligning the panels together. When I test fit mine to see what needed to be done to repair it, it almost completely realigned the bend you see in the pics above by itself because of the tight tolerances these things are made to. And minor paint chips could probably be fixed with black hard top paint with little notice if at all since its on the roof. Mine required a bit more than a dab of touch up paint since I put heat to it with the welder.
@RSI North America Inc , keep at it, its an awesome product that will be incomparable once these minor issues are worked out.
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RSI North America Inc

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So it happened to both gullwing doors when they were in direct sunlight on two different occasions. Probably 60F outside. Then it got cold and I decided to clean them. Pretty sticky stuff!!! Hasn't really warmed up enough to happen again and or gotten any direct sunlight, and haven't noticed any leaking since last week.

I did take it through a touchless carwash. No leaks from the gullwings but it will sure as hell come through that roof top vent! My local carwash is crazy strong and that might just be specific to that one.

@RSI North America Inc has not sent a response yet.
One of the differences between a Gladiator cap and the rest of our SmartCap applications is that the latches are installed through the glass. As a part of that process, we use a self-adhesive foam gasket. What you must be experiencing is a bit of excess adhesive dripping from the edge. We do not believe the problem should continue to persist and your solution of using Goo Gone (or some other type of surface safe solvent) is a good one. As the Gladiator is a brand new application and the only instance where this gasket material is used, this is a new learning for us. We’ve already contacted the supplier, shared the images, and they are making a change in adhesives.
 

JBahr

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One of the differences between a Gladiator cap and the rest of our SmartCap applications is that the latches are installed through the glass. As a part of that process, we use a self-adhesive foam gasket. What you must be experiencing is a bit of excess adhesive dripping from the edge. We do not believe the problem should continue to persist and your solution of using Goo Gone (or some other type of surface safe solvent) is a good one. As the Gladiator is a brand new application and the only instance where this gasket material is used, this is a new learning for us. We’ve already contacted the supplier, shared the images, and they are making a change in adhesives.
@RSI North America Inc I appreciate the response. I will keep an eye on it and report back if need be.
 

nortski3

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Bullet has been bit. Let’s see how long it takes to come in... dealer I worked through in Iowa, said 12 weeks but more or less depends on when RSI has a container coming over and their open orders get filled. So the wait begins ....
 

HeyYoSchmitty

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Bullet has been bit. Let’s see how long it takes to come in... dealer I worked through in Iowa, said 12 weeks but more or less depends on when RSI has a container coming over and their open orders get filled. So the wait begins ....
It’s pretty sweet. No disappointment here.
 

giantpeaches

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Long time lurker reading this thread. I don't have gladiator but this thread and forum is the only one with a lot of feedback for smartcap.

Mine arrived the other day(this is for Chevy colorado) think it's probably recent container shipment, all the qc tags were dated December 3rd.

Packaging was nice where it's on a pallet with each corner had small 2x4 to prevent box from moving and roof panel is secured on the side supported as you see in the picture attached then wrapped with the main box( took the photo after I've removed the wrapping)

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bhadfield

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First off, a big thanks to everyone that has posted pictures and their experiences with the Smartcaps along with @RSI North America Inc for passing along a quick fix for the tailgate clearance issues. I wanted to pass along some additional information about my 'fix' as I did not have additional stock pads to use towards the rear of the cap to help with clearance and the tailgate was so tight it would almost not open with the cap clamped down.

I had a couple of spare rubber floor tiles laying around for materials and I wanted to try and create a larger platform to support the cap than the stock 1.5" x 1.5" pads. I did some quick measurements and figured out that I could get a 2" x 2" pad to fit just to the edge of the bed under the cap. I ended up cutting four 2" x 2" squares from the floor tile and super glued them together to make 2 new pads.

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Once they were glued together, they were almost 3/4" thick but the material has some flex in it so it is closer to 5/8" under load.

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I placed these as far back as I could get them under the rail of the Smartcap along the same linear axis as the pads under the clamps (where the bed rail in the Gladiator starts to get wider but before the back of the cap starts to curve around. It's probably 1/2" towards the back of the bed from the seam where the cap side section and back section mate).

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After re-clamping the cap to the recommended spec the cap seals all the way around and the tailgate opens and closes without any restrictions. The back window seals very tight when closed and takes some pressure to open it but I would prefer that so there is a water/dust proof seal.

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I'm sure there are some variations in caps and beds so there isn't a one size fits all solution here but for those that are looking at a fix for this I would suggest going to a 5/8" spacer over the 9/16" spacer unless the material you are using has no give in it whatsoever.

FWIW I'm extremely happy with the cap and the fix was really easy once I had it measured out. For my money there isn't a better solution out there, thanks RSi for a great product and helping to come up with a solution when issues arose. Also, thanks again to everyone on this thread that has posted their experiences as well as successful fixes, it's very helpful to see what others have done so the wheel doesn't need to be re-invented every time.
 

Jaxmax

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Put my Yakima racks on cap tonight, I have some extra nuts that fit the tracks on the RSI cap, need 8-10 let me know I’ll mail them to ya, anyone on this thread, even you Colorado! Ha!......Jack
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