DLAW
Well-Known Member
I always air down to around 16 PSI. 4-Hi and Offroad+ so it turns off traction control. Works great on Delaware beaches.
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The quote was from a Mojave owner discussing Mojave transfer case, not the Rubicon one.He's talking about the 4 to 1 ratio for low range of the Rubicon transfer case. Not the 4.10 to 1 gears in the axles.
The other transfer cases have a 2.72 to 1 ratio low range.
I've gone 10-12 on stock rims and Falkon tires.Absolutely. I have rub takeoff falken MTs, and always put them down to 18-20 off road or especially the sand. I'm no expert on beadlocks, but I think people really want them for going way low, like 6-12 psi range. Wider wheels impact this as well
Ya I see that now, brain must of been addled from being up to early and no coffee yet.The quote was from a Mojave owner discussing Mojave transfer case, not the Rubicon one.
So true, my fiberglassed bodied 79 CJ5 with an AMC360 would go just about anywhere I pointed it in the sand. Hardly ever aired down or used 4wd. But then again I usually ran 20ish psi. Fun times, but the newer stuff is so much more comfortable on the HWY.As far as the nanny talk goes, my old 68 CJ5 would go anywhere in sand in 2WD unless I was climbing a hill. I miss the days when your transfer case lever was actually connected to the transfer case. It was all up to the driver. But they don’t make them like that anymore and the Gladiator does much better on the road vs the CJ.
It is my understanding that the Rubicon RockTrac 4:1 transfer case has the same gears in 4H than the transfer case in the other JT's. The difference is a stronger case and lower gears in 4L.The Rubicon T-case is not a concern, it just means you might be in a higher gear or higher RPM's than a non Rubi T-case.
These are still cable actuated transfer cases for the non-select trac as far as I know.As far as the nanny talk goes, my old 68 CJ5 would go anywhere in sand in 2WD unless I was climbing a hill. I miss the days when your transfer case lever was actually connected to the transfer case. It was all up to the driver. But they don’t make them like that anymore and the Gladiator does much better on the road vs the CJ.
Wouldn't that be dangerous if sideways on a hill?1. Sway bar disconnected
Do not go sideways on a sand hill. Only go straight up and down. Going sideways on a hill even with the sway bar connected is dangerous. If for some reason you loose traction and pitch a little sideways, put it into reverse and back down straight. Oh, and I forgot one of the most important details:Wouldn't that be dangerous if sideways on a hill?
We usually do not disconnect at Silver Lake. Not the type of wheeling where it's helpful to have the sway bar disconnected.Wouldn't that be dangerous if sideways on a hill?
Sand can be bumpy when you are running hard, and the ride is so much smoother in general with the sway bar disconnected. I like my sway bar disconnected, and my shocks set stiffer than normal 4wheeling to avoid hitting the bump stops.We usually do not disconnect at Silver Lake. Not the type of wheeling where it's helpful to have the sway bar disconnected.
I’ve never had adjustable shocks. It would be nice to have that option.Sand can be bumpy when you are running hard, and the ride is so much smoother in general with the sway bar disconnected. I like my sway bar disconnected, and my shocks set stiffer than normal 4wheeling to avoid hitting the bump stops.