Rustproofing aftermarket steel

[BGH]

What do y’all use to enhance rust protection on aftermarket steel ad ons? I’m likely to add aftermarket rock rails with removable steps to my Rubicon. I don’t believe they’ll stay rust free without help here in western Washington.

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[22EcoDs]

Fluid film

 

[MrZappo]

Corrosionx, acf50, boesheild

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Whatever you use, once it's scraped off through rocks or brush or where your steps attach to the rails (if you remove and put back on) you'll need to reapply.
It's a process with things that get washed, rubbed, scraped, chipped, etc.
IMO, you'd want something that won't migrate.

 

[mx5red]

Instead of taking my steps to get powder coated I just spray painted them, assuming I’d have to touch them up later on. The first layers were rustoleum primer, then their pro enamel. It looked good but scratched off where my yaktrax stepped.
Now I’ve started spraying them and other skid parts with rustoleum rust reformer. Seems like it keeps the rust away better.

some people like Dirt Lifestyle uses Bedliner spray, but I tried that on something and I wasn’t impressed. Definitely wasn’t as rugged as what you get from line-x or factory.

 

[jac04]

If you are trying to protect the inside surfaces (if you can access the inside), I'd use 3M cavity wax. Just remember that if you use something that stays 'wet' (like ACF50 or Fluid Film) it will continue to creep for many years. It will actually creep out of any access/drain holes and end up on the exterior of the part. This can pose a problem with things like side steps / sliders because you can come into contact them.

For seams & overlapping joints, I really like CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. It is very fluid as it sprays out of the can, so it seeps & wicks into seams really well and you can wipe off excess easily. But, it then dries to a firm wax that is dry, although just slightly tacky.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Now I’ve started spraying them and other skid parts with rustoleum rust reformer. Seems like it keeps the rust away better.

That's a product very similar to Extend, which is a rust converter. It likely, like Extend, has tannin in it and organically converts rust/iron oxide, to an inert substance that you can prime and paint. Don't sand it away as the converted protective layer only goes so deep, but if you prep, meaning clean, sand away anything loose, then spray, let it sit 24 hours, prime and paint, it will last a very long time.
I have used it on several cars I've restored as well as some of the parts I restore for others. Follow the directions and it works great. Extend was used in the windshield pinch weld area of my 1970 back in 2006 or so and the rust had not returned as of 2019 when I sold the car.

If you are trying to protect the inside surfaces (if you can access the inside), I'd use 3M cavity wax. Just remember that if you use something that stays 'wet' (like ACF50 or Fluid Film) it will continue to creep for many years. It will actually creep out of any access/drain holes and end up on the exterior of the part. This can pose a problem with things like side steps / sliders because you can come into contact them.

For seams & overlapping joints, I really like CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. It is very fluid as it sprays out of the can, so it seeps & wicks into seams really well and you can wipe off excess easily. But, it then dries to a firm wax that is dry, although just slightly tacky.

It's time to re-up the protection on my 82. The frame rails are still clean, no rust (so far) since I did the body work and paint on that car, but the frame rails and floor spot weld areas and pinch welds and rockers are prone to rust. Zinc only lasts so long then once it has sacrificed itself in protection of the steel below (as zinc is more active), the protection weakens.
So I've been looking over your posts on protection and seeing if there's something maybe better than what I've done in the past - more modern, better technology, and something that will go deep into those frame rails and enclosed sill and rocker areas.
My goal is to keep that car rust free as long as I am alive. it's likely one of only a very few that could actually be called "rust-free" anywhere. It's not in CA any more so protection is even more critical than ever. And it's older, as well......

 

[jac04]

It's time to re-up the protection on my 82.

For sill, rocker & internal frame rails I'd go with the 3M Cavity Wax or something like the CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor, or even Transtar 4423 Amber Rustproofing.

I used the Transtar 4423 on my 68 Camaro rockers when it came back from the body shop because that is what the body shop told me to use. At that point, with the amount of $ spent on body & paint, I was only going to use exactly what they told me to.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

POR -15

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For sill, rocker & internal frame rails I'd go with the 3M Cavity Wax or something like the CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor, or even Transtar 4423 Amber Rustproofing.

I used the Transtar 4423 on my 68 Camaro rockers when it came back from the body shop because that is what the body shop told me to use. At that point, with the amount of $ spent on body & paint, I was only going to use exactly what they told me to.

I hear ya.
For me, I did all of the work except spraying the body itself with the color and clear. Otherwise all prep and priming and blocking was done by me - over several months. I sprayed the bumpers and accessories and did all of the re-assembly (I did let them put the rare back hatch glass back, it's not available for these from any source). So it's the $$ of the color and clear and the bazillion hours of prep.
Camaro would have similar cavities so you know what I'm talking about.

 

[BGH]

Well that was a bunch of great feedback from folks who known the topic better than me. Thanks, and it’s good to be here with a brand new gladiator.

 

[Rusty PW]

POR -15

I've used this on the inside of motorcycle gas tanks that I restored.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

I've used this on the inside of motorcycle gas tanks that I restored.

yes ,multiple uses and variety of products

 

[staying_tuned]

Two rounds of Krown. Ceramic applied (at home) to exterior once after hitting it with a mild cutting compound and polish. The truck has been through 2 Pocono winters, trip down and back to both FL and Texas, heading out west in June. Undercarriage shots are less than a week old, exterior is today at 25k miles. If you don't have a local Krown to apply it, fluid film is fantastic as well. Krown drills and sprays in all body cavities then plugs it but I've yet to have an untreated vehicle rust from body cavity out so at home with fluid film would be great. Stay away from "permanent" solutions. The stuff claiming rust prevention causes more problems than they are worth unless you can properly access and prep, as mentioned above Por-15 is incredible. Their clear sucks but the trusty standard black is amazing but you'll take a huge penalty down the road if prep isn't spot on.

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