S&B cold air intake test and dyno

[gentlejax]

not me or related to me . guy tested the S&B cold air intake and dyno. I was thinking about getting one but not after this. very interesting.

I know its been said " keep your money they dont do anything" which is apparently true if you take the results on the video. I think it would do better with some tuning.

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[Wheelin98TJ]

Needs a throttle body spacer too.

 

[gentlejax]

Needs a throttle body spacer too.

done mods on near 60 cars ive owned but throttle spacer never used one of those .

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

done mods on near 60 cars ive owned but throttle spacer never used one of those .

Throttle body spacer is a dumb gimmick. Can do something minor for a carb, but does nothing for fuel injection.

 

[Guns_N_Rosaries]

I have a theory that cold air intakes are the gateway drug into DIY mods. It's easy enough that pretty much anyone can install one, but requires enough work that it makes you think "Hey, if I can do this I do that"

And like fancy air filters, I don't think they actually do anything other than make you think you feel some extra horsepower.

 

[gentlejax]

I have a theory that cold air intakes are the gateway drug into DIY mods. It's easy enough that pretty much anyone can install one, but requires enough work that it makes you think "Hey, if I can do this I do that"

And like fancy air filters, I don't think they actually do anything other than make you think you feel some extra horsepower.

it depends. Dodge has them from factory on the 392 and Hellcat. not all cars and manufacturers are same. most of the time if its actually capable ofdoing something the car has to be adjusted to take advantage of it otherwise you are not going to see a difference. when it says " No tune required" that really means its not doing enough to throw off an engine code.

to say none of them work is questionable. they can work with supporting mods and tuning. they are not magic. some cars in the older days had restrictive air intakes and these types of things did work. its not turning a 3.6 Pentastar into a Hemi though. I was surprised it lost power. I expected torque curve to change or move. not drop.

 

[gentlejax]

I have a theory that cold air intakes are the gateway drug into DIY mods. It's easy enough that pretty much anyone can install one, but requires enough work that it makes you think "Hey, if I can do this I do that"

And like fancy air filters, I don't think they actually do anything other than make you think you feel some extra horsepower.

I guess you could be right if applied to all those people that install open air intakes in their Hondas and such.

 

[MeanGreen]

I think people get an itch to do something to their vehicle and a CIA is the easiest thing to do. You get some added noise and a little better throttle response and feel happy about it. Maybe a couple extra HP gain that you can't truly feel. It's the most expensive HP you can buy if you think dollars per HP. It's $75 (and up) per HP gained with a CIA. Not to mention a high flow filter = less filtration.

 

[caryt]

All ya need to make HP

 

[Bananaman]

I think most OEM engineers of modern vehicles design the intakes to be pretty efficient.
I watched a similar video from KC Turbos, I think, where they test OEM, 6637 open filter, and S&B on a 7.3 Powerstroke. The S&B actually did give more flow and horsepower, dispelling the old thought that the 6637 mod is the only way to go on those old Powerstroke's.

 

[gentlejax]

I think most OEM engineers of modern vehicles design the intakes to be pretty efficient.
I watched a similar video from KC Turbos, I think, where they test OEM, 6637 open filter, and S&B on a 7.3 Powerstroke. The S&B actually did give more flow and horsepower, dispelling the old thought that the 6637 mod is the only way to go on those old Powerstroke's.

the S&B made more power on that because it was a bigger motor running forced induction. the 3.6 Pent apparently doesnt benefit from having more air without tuning. imo

 

[Sandman 4x4]

While the tests show the S&B cools the intake a few degrees, plus looks better under the hood, that’s not the CAI you want for the $$$, to add power and efficiency. On other numerous YouTube videos the K&N raisss HP & TQ at least 8-5% that’s more than any other. The other option owners talk about are exhaust systems from the aftermarket. That in the daze was a better option because the good aftermarket used a method called mandrel bending. The older cars did not, that without mandrel, at every bend the diameter would close in due to a kink left behind. But the mandrel left a consistent diameter and no kink to cause undue back pressure. Today’s Jeeps use Mandrel in the manufacturing of their exhaust pipes. The only reason there’s any resistance to flow will be from the huge heavy muffler used to quiet the sounds made in EPA tests. If you want to gain any power from the exhaust? Replace the big muffler with an easy flow turbo flow muffler, but keep the resonator in the tailpipe. But the pipes are as good as can be considering the design of the cast in exhaust manifolds and catalyst used. Just notice the pipes coming down from the engine to the Y pipe, then notice on the passenger side there’s a corkscrew designed in, that’s to make sure the pipes on both sides are the exact same length, that’s good for exhaust tuning.

 

[MeanGreen]

A CAI showing a few degrees cooler while driving on the highway means nothing really. I guarantee that in normal stop and go traffic most if not all aftermarket CAI's will run hotter than the stock one. I've witnessed it on other vehicles of mine. K&N, Roush, Mopar, JLT. At stop lights the inlet temps would skyrocket. It's really hard to beat the factory piece on a daily driving.

No way a K&N CAI (or any other band) adds 14-22hp. Only way that happens is on a dyno with the hood up, a big fan in the front and a few hits are done before it gets hot. As soon as you close the hood and drive around town those benefits go with it. The only reasons to buy an aftermarket CAI is you like the way it looks and sounds. Which there's nothing wrong with that.

 

[gentlejax]

A CAI showing a few degrees cooler while driving on the highway means nothing really. I guarantee that in normal stop and go traffic most if not all aftermarket CAI's will run hotter than the stock one. I've witnessed it on other vehicles of mine. K&N, Roush, Mopar, JLT. At stop lights the inlet temps would skyrocket. It's really hard to beat the factory piece on a daily driving.

No way a K&N CAI (or any other band) adds 14-22hp. Only way that happens is on a dyno with the hood up, a big fan in the front and a few hits are done before it gets hot. As soon as you close the hood and drive around town those benefits go with it. The only reasons to buy an aftermarket CAI is you like the way it looks and sounds. Which there's nothing wrong with that.

you "guarantee" do you! ... lol....

funny. I traded in my 392 scat pack that had the "SHAKER" package which included the snorkel that pulled in outside air. I also had the intake hose from front headlight to the air box. so I had 2 hoses running outside air into my airbox. the airbox was normally open top. I didnt like that so I bought a cover with a see thru window. it did not seal 100% but in driving stop/go and interstate the cover kept majority of hot air out and the Inlet Air Temps with cover on stayed within 10 degrees. with cover off it would get as much as 20 degrees higher. yes it would eventually cool down with movement but the cover kept it much lower ..within 10. the factory intake which is what was on the car was very similar to aftermarket.

the only intakes that were aftermarket that got hotter than the OEM were open air intakes not sealed . do you have a link to show that ? unless you are talking about those cheap metal hose intakes that would certainlly get heat soak. id like to see that info that a sealed intake made out of the black plastic blow molded tubing got hotter than factory intake .

 

[MeanGreen]

you "guarantee" do you! ... lol....

funny. I traded in my 392 scat pack that had the "SHAKER" package which included the snorkel that pulled in outside air. I also had the intake hose from front headlight to the air box. so I had 2 hoses running outside air into my airbox. the airbox was normally open top. I didnt like that so I bought a cover with a see thru window. it did not seal 100% but in driving stop/go and interstate the cover kept majority of hot air out and the Inlet Air Temps with cover on stayed within 10 degrees. with cover off it would get as much as 20 degrees higher. yes it would eventually cool down with movement but the cover kept it much lower ..within 10. the factory intake which is what was on the car was very similar to aftermarket.

the only intakes that were aftermarket that got hotter than the OEM were open air intakes not sealed . do you have a link to show that ? unless you are talking about those cheap metal hose intakes that would certainlly get heat soak. id like to see that info that a sealed intake made out of the black plastic blow molded tubing got hotter than factory intake .

Not the same thing...

You talking about something that was developed for that car by the manufacture. Was there a HP rating difference between the shaker hood model and the model without? If not, what's the benefit other than a nostalgic trim? Most of the vehicles that CAI's are put on aren't pulling fresh air from the outside like that anyways.

My Roush CAI was a closed intake and got hotter when sitting than the stock one.

Links to what??? I'm talking about personal experience on 5.0 Mustangs, 392 Chargers and R/T Chargers. Look, I'm not saying no one should get an aftermarket CAI. I'm just saying there's zero performance benefit in a daily driven car unless a couple HP (at best) is life changing to you.

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