So, how much do you really scrape the belly while off road? Lifted.

[361Sean]

That's pretty cool. I'm a welder, I may make one too.

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[Bonanza]

That's pretty cool. I'm a welder, I may make one too.

Please do, Id like to see someone with skill take a go. I have a HF 90 amp and I rushed to be done in time to put the kids to bed. Overall this took me 30 mins from cut, weld, (grind), then I put on JB weld putty for looks, then painted.

Ill likely grind the front to remove that big 90 edge and make it more of a ramp.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Enough. 20k miles, lots of weekends wheeling. Very little rock crawling

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ek-what-do-you-want-to-see.31915/#post-521722

 

[hjdca]

You can run it all the way in to the last hole with no issues.

I Just received my Skidmark. What a Great tip ! Addresses the most common scrape spot and everyone thinks it looks great. I will leave mine on permanently. Thanks again.

 

[hjdca]

I received my 6 Rockhard control arm/shock Skids to go with my 2 Rusty's rear control arm skids. I should have time to install them tomorrow. Black powders coating and welds are really nice. Packaging was excellent.

Here is a pic of the Rusty's rear control arm skids I already installed. 8 total skids when done. I will probably also get the RockHard FAD skid.
For Diffs, I ordered Metalcloak front and back diff covers and skid plates, those will not be here for a few weeks.

I installed the Rockhard front and rear control arm armor and the Metalcloak rear diff slide. I only have the Metalcloak diff covers and Metalcloak front skid left to install. I will have the diff covers powder coated.

I like the armor, seems to be stout and just in the right spots.

Front Rockhard control arm skids

Metalcloak skid, Rusty's rear control arm armor (front part), Rockhard rear control arm armor & shock armor.

 

[hjdca]

The Metalcloak diff covers came in. Here are some pics of the front diff cover and integrated skid system. Pretty cool that the bolts are separate from the diff cover bolts. Hex style so you can get them off with vice grips. I am getting the bare diff covers powder coated before installation.

 

[hjdca]

Metalcloak Diff covers powdercoated, ready for install. 2 Color - grey first, then red. Here you can see the second red coat going on with tape over the grey. I am hoping it will look good with our sting grey JT and the gold skid plates.

MetalCloak rear diff cover and Metalcloak skid installed

 

[361Sean]

I was with a few JLs and JKs . I was the only one who scraped getting out.

 

[12BNNT]

I was with a few JLs and JKs . I was the only one who scraped getting out.

Was that badlands? Looks like where I filled my JK floorboards (doors off) going the other direction a few years back. LOL

Anyway, the stock JTR is the same height as the JLUR but the long belly makes a difference. Went to a Jamboree last month and both of us with JTs just had to pic our lines better. Going over a rise like that, the 2&4 doors were able to ride in the ruts and not scrape (barely). I moved over a hair and kept my tires out of the ruts and didn’t drag. Other JT followed my line and didn’t touch either. Tail end landed on a few ledges but knew it was coming so creeped down until I set the receiver on the rock and used it like a rock slider. Not really damaged at all. Just a couple scrapes to the sliders where the wranglers were able to weave between the big rocks and I had to take a tire over at least one. Again, set the truck softly onto the rock and drug it slowly until the rear went up and over. Just a few scratches underneath but no real carnage. Of course, I crawl the rocks, not “drive it like I stole it”

watching your video, I’d bet if you had went a little left or right and taken a tire over the rock in the middle you probably wouldn’t have scraped. All a matter of picking lines to make up for the long belly

37’s with 3/4” of lift

 

[wanderer]

I have just picked up jtr what is the minimum needed in terms of skid plates. I intend to get Rusty’s control arm skid plates and the skid plate for the trailer hitch also looking for side rails that work with the factory Rubi rails.

I have the steel bumper package do I need the sway bar disconnect skid plates. I don’t see why?

And a dumb question when you get skid plates for the diffs when you loosen the bolts do you loose diff fluid? The front end seems pretty well protected what do you need there? I would really like to it have to deal with repacking diff fluids as I am not set up for that.
My skills are such that I can do a winch install basic wiring bolt on stuff. But no welding. Looking for a front bolt on diff skid plate too

 

[hjdca]

I have just picked up jtr what is the minimum needed in terms of skid plates. I intend to get Rusty’s control arm skid plates and the skid plate for the trailer hitch also looking for side rails that work with the factory Rubi rails.

I have the steel bumper package do I need the sway bar disconnect skid plates. I don’t see why?

And a dumb question when you get skid plates for the diffs when you loosen the bolts do you loose diff fluid? The front end seems pretty well protected what do you need there? I would really like to it have to deal with repacking diff fluids as I am not set up for that.
My skills are such that I can do a winch install basic wiring bolt on stuff. But no welding. Looking for a front bolt on diff skid plate too

It depends on what you are going to do. With a Rubicon and Mild/Mid level 4wheeling, you do not need anything. I have been doing that for 10K miles so far with no scraping. If you go sideways, and pick a good line, you will not scrape... I want to do some harder trails, so, in my opinion, based on what I have seen so far, I wanted to focus on the control arms and axles, this was my priority:

1. Skidmark rear hitch skid -- rear hitch gets the most hits.
2. Rusty's rear control arm skids - you already mentioned that one.
3. Rear diff skid plate -- I like the Metalcloak
4. Rear shock skids for the axle
5. Rear control arm skids for the axle
6. Front diff Skid -- I like the Metalcloak
7. Strong Front Diff Cover
8. Front Control arm Skids
9. Strong Rear Diff Cover.

The higher you get the axles off the ground, the more clearance you will have. Going to 37" tires will help a lot and may alleviate some need for 1-9 above.

I figured I would do all this first while I decide on my lift and wear out my tires..... , since, I am still wheeling 3 or 4 times a week in the forest with this COVID nightmare going on. Relatively, pretty inexpensive upgrades for the peace of mind you get...
It looks easy to install, but, I did have to widen a few holes on Rusty's and one on Rockhard to get the bolts to align perfectly. This was the most work --- easily tripled the time to install. Note: it's not easy to widen the holes on 1/4" steel plate.

Note: the most important thing is to be on completely level ground with no incline so the control arms will line up perfectly again when you try to put on the skids. You also need an impact driver with a 24 mm swivel to tighten to over 100 ft lbs. and a 24 mm wrench and 21 mm wrench. The skids have to squeeze the control arm tabs, which in turn have to squeeze tight the control arms. No way I could do it right with out an air compressor and an impact dialed in to the correct ft lbs. The front rockhard control arm skids (with the tabs) especially bend while cinching to the frame tabs, so, a good impact with a swivel to get in there is required.

 

[Bonanza]

Gas tank skid with a slight scratch. I will say this obstacle proved how important lockers are, and it’s driving me crazy that nothing besides ARB is on the market.

 

[hjdca]

Gas tank skid with a slight scratch. I will say this obstacle proved how important lockers are, and it’s driving me crazy that nothing besides ARB is on the market.

Great Pic ! Nice truck ! Yea... get that passenger front tire off the ground and one of the rear tires in the air and your done. Try feathering the brake with the accelerator depressed and traction control on, and turn the wheel. That will usually get all the wheels turning again for a few moments.

 

[Bonanza]

Great Pic ! Nice truck ! Yea... get that passenger front tire off the ground and one of the rear tires in the air and your done. Try feathering the brake with the accelerator depressed and traction control on, and turn the wheel. That will usually get all the wheels turning again for a few moments.

Great Pic ! Nice truck ! Yea... get that passenger front tire off the ground and one of the rear tires in the air and your done. Try feathering the brake with the accelerator depressed and traction control on, and turn the wheel. That will usually get all the wheels turning again for a few moments.

I still am getting used to wheeling in an auto. I just figured out the 2 footed technique to not roll backwards from a stop. Been wheeling in a stick my whole life ha!

 

[bastage]

and it’s driving me crazy that nothing besides ARB is on the market.

Ain't this the damn truth.. Eaton needs to get there asses in gear & give us some options.

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