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Sport S vs Rubicon

Matt84

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Thank you everyone for the input

I was focusing more on max tow for the dana 44 I was under the assumption the stock sport s are dana 30/35 and I figured if I go 37 I can just beef up the 44 and still be good. am I wrong?

resale value down here most are sports aswell

someone mentioned the drive do the sports drives worse the rubi? I was not to worried about this since I'm replacing the gears suspension and shocks but am I wrong?
All Gladiators have Dana 44, the Rubicon and Max Tow package axles are 1.5 inches longer overall.
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Tarantularock

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someone mentioned the drive do the sports drives worse the rubi? I was not to worried about this since I'm replacing the gears suspension and shocks but am I wrong?
I drove both models back to back to me the sport with stock springs and suv tire 31s felt more floating cushion then the rubicon… after adding the Mopar lift and 35 bfg the ride felt much improved. I was worried about the gearing / but all was good until I decided to go up to 37.
 
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Aonarch

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Sport S Max Tow FTW.

The cooling, bigger brakes, wider axles, alternator, etc are totally worth every single penny.

And for me since my usage is 99% on-road the new Dana Trac-Lok LSD is a great feature over a locker.

The new Trac-Lok is beefy and doesn't have clutches like the old generation.
 

Jglad15

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It’s so funny reading people’s opinions and them trying to justify why you shouldn’t spend the extra money on the Rubicon or why you should get the sport s, you can save so much money and do x amount of things to it and it’s better than the rubicon. I used to have a tj and I basically turned it into a rubicon at the time whether it was a clone or better than a rubi as some users would say. I always said next time I get a jeep I’m just forking out the money from the get go and just getting the rubi. Time is money and I spent a lot of time and money doing stuff to it that I wanted to do, but I could save time and just have it right off the bat. The only thing I didn’t have was the front locker but I was planning on putting one in anyways. It was my daily driver as well. So if I wasn’t doing the work myself or if it was in the shop I was still down a vehicle. And now bein an adult and having kids it’s a lot harder to sit down and do the work or have it done since we are always running around depending on schedules. Now I can just buy it right off the bat and go out and wheel and enjoy it, unless of course I were to break something. And I’m not saying sports aren’t capable either. In the end just get what you want to get. I don’t need to be justified cost savings or 90% of the people don’t use what’s in it. I don’t care, that’s what they wanted. People will say the overland drives so much better or the rubi rides so much rougher. It’s a jeep if I wanted comfort I prob wouldn’t have bought it. I know what can of worms I’m getting into. So op just get what you want and enjoy the hell out of it. That being said I’m most likely just buying the Rubicon when the 22’s come out. Just sold my f150 this week while used car prices are high! Time to get back to the Jeep family!
 

Matt84

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The new Trac-Lok is beefy and doesn't have clutches like the old generation.
Trac-Lok 100% still has clutches. If they had torsen (Truetrac) it would be a different story. Truetrac is a helical gear style LSD, they never wear out and should be the only kind of LSD used IMO. Trac-lok is a clutch style LSD, the clutches WILL wear out, just a matter of when depending on use. If they are babied and the gear oil is changed regularly they may last 100k miles. If used off-road regularly and abused you’ll be lucky to get 30k out of it before a rebuild is necessary.
 

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anavrinIV

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I did a fun exercise this morning and spec'd out a new max tow as close as I could to my current Rubicon to see what the price difference would be, and wouldn't you know it....there wasn't any. I bought a rubicon because I wanted the stock 4.10s and a manual transmission, and that was the only way to get it (Mojave was not out at the time). Otherwise it has a premium soft top and tow package, no other options.

A max tow (comparing MSRP, actual prices obviously vary) with the same options was a few hundred bucks cheaper than the MSRP on my current JT when I bought it, and more than I paid for mine. The only addition is the auto trans which is what I did not want in the first place. And it was Nacho instead of gray. But on mine I got stock 33s, lockers, sway disconnect, and badges that let everyone know how cool I am.

So what it really comes down to is how you would otherwise spec your JT. Adding the auto trans to mine would make it $2k more than a max tow but I would still have the rubi bits (which I do not plan to change). Worth it? That's up to you.
 

aprez27

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I've gone from 2 Rubicons, and JKUR, and a JLUR. The only thing I miss is the manual in my JLUR, and the electronic disconnects. Makes beach driving a lot smoother.
 

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Trac-Lok 100% still has clutches. If they had torsen (Truetrac) it would be a different story. Truetrac is a helical gear style LSD, they never wear out and should be the only kind of LSD used IMO. Trac-lok is a clutch style LSD, the clutches WILL wear out, just a matter of when depending on use. If they are babied and the gear oil is changed regularly they may last 100k miles. If used off-road regularly and abused you’ll be lucky to get 30k out of it before a rebuild is necessary.
2021 MY has the new version.
Jeep Gladiator Sport S vs Rubicon trailerbodybuilders_11680_spicer_traclok_lo
 

Tufelhundin

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2021 MY has the new version.
trailerbodybuilders_11680_spicer_traclok_lo.png

If only the aftermarket would have these available. I check the tranny/gear thread almost every day hoping something has come out for a LSD.
 

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Matt84

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Jeep Gladiator Sport S vs Rubicon 5DB40197-61A8-459C-BB00-EFE1966C6AC4

So I found this, I can guarantee your gladiator doesn’t have a commercial truck differential.
 

bastage

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I did a fun exercise this morning and spec'd out a new max tow as close as I could to my current Rubicon to see what the price difference would be, and wouldn't you know it....there wasn't any. I bought a rubicon because I wanted the stock 4.10s and a manual transmission, and that was the only way to get it (Mojave was not out at the time). Otherwise it has a premium soft top and tow package, no other options.

A max tow (comparing MSRP, actual prices obviously vary) with the same options was a few hundred bucks cheaper than the MSRP on my current JT when I bought it, and more than I paid for mine. The only addition is the auto trans which is what I did not want in the first place. And it was Nacho instead of gray. But on mine I got stock 33s, lockers, sway disconnect, and badges that let everyone know how cool I am.

So what it really comes down to is how you would otherwise spec your JT. Adding the auto trans to mine would make it $2k more than a max tow but I would still have the rubi bits (which I do not plan to change). Worth it? That's up to you.
There was almost 4k diferance when I just spec'd a Max Tow Sport S vs a Rubicon just now. Spec'd as close as I could (adding nothing but black hard top on both, Max Tow & Auto trans). In practice though Rubicon's tend to be MUCH more when sitting on the lot. The cheapest Rubicon local to me was 16k more then my Max Tow when I bought last april. Now I did get a HELL of a good price, but 16k is a big ass chunk of change for upgrades.
 

Pow_wagon

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There was almost 4k diferance when I just spec'd a Max Tow Sport S vs a Rubicon just now. Spec'd as close as I could (adding nothing but black hard top on both, Max Tow & Auto trans). In practice though Rubicon's tend to be MUCH more when sitting on the lot. The cheapest Rubicon local to me was 16k more then my Max Tow when I bought last april. Now I did get a HELL of a good price, but 16k is a big ass chunk of change for upgrades.
That was my experience as well, picked up my max tow for significantly less than what they were asking for on the rubis (Colorado market)

No regrats, not even a single letter.
 

Jglad15

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There was almost 4k diferance when I just spec'd a Max Tow Sport S vs a Rubicon just now. Spec'd as close as I could (adding nothing but black hard top on both, Max Tow & Auto trans). In practice though Rubicon's tend to be MUCH more when sitting on the lot. The cheapest Rubicon local to me was 16k more then my Max Tow when I bought last april. Now I did get a HELL of a good price, but 16k is a big ass chunk of change for upgrades.
Prob b/c dealers tend to order em loaded. Same thing for me where I live. If I had to buy near me I would prob get the sport s. But I’m willing to travel the distance and will be ordering from Gupton. This way I’ll get exactly what I want. I will not give a dealership near me a dime. They rip off way to many ppl and people are willing to pay it so they will keep doing it. I was talking to a guy with a gladiator pumping gas the other day next to me and I said where did you get your gladiator? He then told me, and I said were you able to haggle at all or negotiate a good price? He laughed in my face and said yeah what the sticker was. I then informed him about Jeep gladiator forum and some of the dealers on there, tread lightly etc. and his jaw just dropped. Had no idea.
 

bastage

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Prob b/c dealers tend to order em loaded. Same thing for me where I live. If I had to buy near me I would prob get the sport s. But I’m willing to travel the distance and will be ordering from Gupton. This way I’ll get exactly what I want. I will not give a dealership near me a dime. They rip off way to many ppl and people are willing to pay it so they will keep doing it. I was talking to a guy with a gladiator pumping gas the other day next to me and I said where did you get your gladiator? He then told me, and I said were you able to haggle at all or negotiate a good price? He laughed in my face and said yeah what the sticker was. I then informed him about Jeep gladiator forum and some of the dealers on there, tread lightly etc. and his jaw just dropped. Had no idea.
Peterson’s that most people on here rave about is actually local to me. They did nothing to try to earn my business. Wouldn’t come off the window sticker price at all. Next town over (15 min drive) I got a comparable max tow for 7k less.

Looked at or called every dealership within an 8 hour drive of me. The rubicon markup was real and that includes ones that weren’t equipped as well as what I bought.
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