Stop Vehicle Now - Updates Alternator ?

[ShadowsPapa]

Wish there was a way to test the alternator in the vehicle.

There is. You can read the IBS using JSCAN or AlfaOBD and see what's going in or coming out of a battery.
And - you can use a scope on the output line...........that can check the alternator.

Most likely it was a blown N3 fuse and the N4 fuse can usually be used as a substitute by moving the N3 cable to the N4 terminal. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/ess-dual-battery-system-operation.44028/post-709139

Both are 150 but if there's a fair load already on the PDC accessories, then you might overload that one (it would take a lot)
If N7 goes, you lose the alternator charging for both batteries. (300 amps)

I don't trust parts store to trust anything - be it batteries or alternators. I always test my own.


Checking output on a 1970 alternator.............

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[NULL POINTER]

My

Thanks. I’m going to order one to have in the glove box. Thanks for sharing your frustrating time so we can learn.

My 2019 Z06 vette has a similar fuse array with a 350amp fuse as part of it. That blew the first day I picked up the vehicle new from the dealer, vehicle electronics spaszed out, couldn't start it, and nobody could figure out why it blew. The array was replaced under warranty, and I bought an extra one to carry around just in case. Never had a problem since. When I learned that my JLUR had a similar type fuse array on the PDC, I bought one for around $60 from a MOPAR supplier parts site to carry around in the JLUR and now JT console. I also have a spare green canbus connector that goes behind the glove box in my shop. These can also cause the dash to go crazy and numerous other electronic gremlins when they go bad. When these types of scenarios occur, my order of checking is batteries first, if issues persist then fuse array, if issues still exist, green canbus behind glove box. Final alternator output check before turning over to dealer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I also have a spare green canbus connector that goes behind the glove box in my shop. These can also cause the dash to go crazy and numerous other electronic gremlins when they go bad.

They typically don't actually go bad - disconnecting and reconnecting things firmly almost always resolve issues in that area. Did with mine when i got weird bus error messages, missing communications messages and so on. It was just a matter of making sure connections were clean and tight.
Likely many replace them and say "yeah, that fixed it" when what really fixed it was just the act of disconnecting and reconnecting.

The high current fuse can have problems due to a loose battery connection. That's been the cause of many issues with Jeeps - "yeah, it's tight" but if you grab and try to twist the cable end on the battery post, it will move, and if it moves, oxides can form between the clamp and the post - resistance.

There is always a reason for a fuse to blow - but sometimes it's a one-time event so isn't found when later checking things over.

AMC had problems with blown alternator components in the early 1970s. They were paying for alternators to be replaced left and right.
Their investigation found it was techs improperly connecting and disconnecting test equipment at the battery. The fix was a capacitor on the output side of the alternator to absorb spikes. Everyone thought - oh, that's obviously for radio noise suppression issues and that's the common "lore" out there - but I have the bulletins for the issue......... nope, it was being caused by the technicians themselves. They even sent a bulletin out to the techs basically saying "stop doing this".

 

[sarguy1941]

So my guess is I need to get my security module cable to get those screens on JSCAN ? With just the BT adapter I only see these -

So as reference took everything apart again this morning. Charged both main battery and aux battery. After both were charged (separately) I reassembled everything. Hooked up my BT adapter on the OBD port and fired it up. voltage went to 14.6 from 13.2 on screen. Drove to DQ (25 miles each way) with headlights on and heater fan and it stayed at 14.4-6 the entire trip.

I'll have the wife drive it again tomorrow but keep to main roads where she can get help if needed. I also changed screen back to MPG so we don't get frantic over it. Need to dig more into JSCAN next week after I get my cable back from a friend.

 

[sarguy1941]

You need to go into the modules section, scroll down to powertrain control, then the yellow dot and select what you would like to view. There is seriously a ton of things to weed through in each module… ? so I think it helps if people post screen shots of what they are reviewing…. Some of these settings/views are algorithms and some are live feeds of sensors- so keep that in mind.

As seen in last post my app definitely doesn't look like yours. I think you use IOS. I'm android so not sure.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As seen in last post my app definitely doesn't look like yours. I think you use IOS. I'm android so not sure.

Those were shots I grabbed from another fellow looking at his Jeep - I've not been in my shop or garage to do much lately with my headache/dizzy/balance issues as of late.
The IBS reports to the BCM as I recall, so it would be there.
Will have to dig if it warms up and the throbbing stops.

 

[sarguy1941]

No problem. Thanks for the follow up. I'm going to try to get the app on my wife's iPhone also this week. We have multiple jeeps and other dodge vehicles so its valuable to have it in multiple places. I may look into the Apha OBD for my PC also. I had it on an old PC but got lazy and didn't install on the new PC.

 

[ecidiego]

68368853AA if you have standard alternator.
IIRC it’s 68368854AA with the tow package with larger alt.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/fits/...sories/68368853aa-mopar-oem-z-case-fuse-array

I purchased mine through Northridge.

No one has seen the 60a Z5 on any Gladiator yet. I didnt have tow or aux and had 54AA factory. 100a Z5.

I don't believe 53AA is on any Gladiator. 180a JLs yes. Check what you have. The one linked has a 60a Z5.

Z5 is the only difference and is the fan fuse. Z7 is the alt fuse and is 300a on both parts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

No one has seen the 60a Z5 on any Gladiator yet. I didnt have tow or aux and had 54AA factory. 100a Z5.

I don't believe 53AA is on any Gladiator. 180a JLs yes. Check what you have. The one linked has a 60a Z5.

Looks to be different 2020 vs. later.
The fuse cover legend clearly indicates N5 is 60/100 and someone who had a 2020 did find the smaller N5 60 amp in theirs - now, to recall who that was. They found different part numbers.
Looks like they used the 100 as the default in years after 2020.

(you confused me with the Z5 - what the heck is fuse Z5?? Then I realized - N5....... ok.

My 2020 pdc legend -

 

[ecidiego]

Looks to be different 2020 vs. later.
The fuse cover legend clearly indicates N5 is 60/100 and someone who had a 2020 did find the smaller N5 60 amp in theirs - now, to recall who that was. They found different part numbers.
Looks like they used the 100 as the default in years after 2020.

(you confused me with the Z5 - what the heck is fuse Z5?? Then I realized - N5....... ok.

My 2020 pdc legend -

2020s a bastard child once again!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

2020s a bastard child once again!

I just checked my 2022 - has the same exact legend! odd......... and yet I'm sure someone found a difference. Maybe it wasn't cost effective to redesign a piece of paper no one ever looked at anyway?

 

[ecidiego]

I just checked my 2022 - has the same exact legend! odd......... and yet I'm sure someone found a difference. Maybe it wasn't cost effective to redesign a piece of paper no one ever looked at anyway?

Definitely proves you should always check it with your own eyes

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

As seen in last post my app definitely doesn't look like yours. I think you use IOS. I'm android so not sure.

I can’t help with the android deal- though the video I just watched on android jscan looks the same as it does on iOS…. ??‍

app looks like this right:

has “demo” mode too so you can use with it when away from the house, in order to better use it when sitting in the cab.

 

[sarguy1941]

Well went all thru the app today and don't see anywhere that it checks or talks to alternator.

I decided to work from home so wife doesn't get stranded. Left home to get parts for a work project.

Jeep and JSCAN showed 13.4 when we left. Drive hour south. Jeep is at 12.7. it drops to 12.3 when auto start shuts engine off. It's 55 outside so temp shouldn't affect it. We decided to stop and grab dinner. I'll see if auto start works when we leave. Hopefully we make it home with headlights but just seems like it would hold voltage while running and not continuously loose voltage.

 

[sarguy1941]

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