Testing the turbo this week

[FC1]

Headed to the Smokey Mountains in the morning. Pulling the Nucamp 400. Back of Jeep is loaded pretty good.
Hopefully no codes are turbo failure.
Wish us luck.
My wife starts chemo in 3 weeks. Will be our last trip for a while

Sponsored

 

[Rusty PW]

Best of luck with your wife. Hope everything goes well. My first wifey went through 3.5 yrs of chemo. You have to be a cheerleader for your wife.

 

[Gee Man]

We will pray for her recovery.
You have a new normal as she has a tough road ahead.

 

[RougeShot12er]

You got this!

 

[FC1]

Thanks guys
We made 500 miles today. First hard grade, the jeep throwed a code. Let it rest for may5 minutes. Started it up and no problem since. That 400 miles in grades and didn’t throw another code.

 

[FC1]

Pulled through the Smokey’s all day with the camper today
No Codes today

 

[RudeJeepin]

Thanks guys
We made 500 miles today. First hard grade, the jeep throwed a code. Let it rest for may5 minutes. Started it up and no problem since. That 400 miles in grades and didn’t throw another code.

Do you know what code?

And best wishes for your wife.

 

[FC1]

POOAF
Thanks

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Chances are you threw the first code because the actuator was heat soaked from higher speed highway driving getting to the smokies, and once you were in the mountains you were traveling slower with alternating speeds so everything was staying cooler.

According to the diesel tech I talked to, theres been no solid diagnosis as to whats happening when the actuator gets hot outside of voltage readings getting off a little and the PCM detects the wastegate isn't where it expects it to be. It could be just voltage fluctuations from hot wiring, it could be the worm gears getting soft, it could be expansion/contraction of the housing or actuator arms. This leads me to believe that theres no real risk to the turbo itself, and probably minimal risk to anything else when it happens. Only real risk I see is if the actuator itself goes out, which I haven't heard of happening.

 

[FC1]

Update, 600 mile plus tow home. Outside temp, 95 tops. Oil temp 150 temp. A lot of long grads at 70 plus mph.
No codes
Just don’t understand

 

[FC1]

Sorry
Oil temperature high was 250
My bad

 

[rubicon4wheeler]

Chances are you threw the first code because the actuator was heat soaked from higher speed highway driving getting to the smokies, and once you were in the mountains you were traveling slower with alternating speeds so everything was staying cooler.

According to the diesel tech I talked to, theres been no solid diagnosis as to whats happening when the actuator gets hot outside of voltage readings getting off a little and the PCM detects the wastegate isn't where it expects it to be. It could be just voltage fluctuations from hot wiring, it could be the worm gears getting soft, it could be expansion/contraction of the housing or actuator arms. This leads me to believe that theres no real risk to the turbo itself, and probably minimal risk to anything else when it happens. Only real risk I see is if the actuator itself goes out, which I haven't heard of happening.

This was my thinking too, so I swapped out my OEM actuator for the Alibaba actuator, and for normal daily driving it's been perfect for weeks. Then I heat-soaked it driving across the state last weekend, and once I got to a long steady mountain grade holding 65mph it threw the P00AF code again, lit up the EVIC like a Christmas tree, and sent me limping to the side of the road to power cycle the engine and resume driving. Oil was only around 240°, EGT was roughly 1250°. I wasn't towing, I just had my motorcycle on the hitch rack so I wasn't "overloading" the Jeep. I wasn't lugging it in 8th gear, it was in 7th at around 2000rpm.

So that's the exact same problem with 2 different actuators: the "smart" OEM one and the "dumbed-down" Alibaba one. Perhaps it's not the actuator, but something else that's overheating? I've gone as far as putting 3 layers of aluminum heat shielding between the exhaust and the firewall wiring harness that we all know was routed too close to the exhaust, but that hasn't eliminated my P00AF either so I doubt that's where the heat soak issue is originating. It has to be somewhere else.

When I had the actuator off, I moved the rod by hand to actuate the turbo vanes. It moved perfectly smoothly, so I doubt there's anything physically wrong with the turbo itself. That's why I am so hesitant to have my turbo replaced - the problem doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo or the actuator.

 

[Vtur]

I've had my oil temp up to 269f and no derated. Most derated happen from a breif stop. I think one of the reason for derating is intake manifold air temp due to heat soaked. Once warmed up, it switched over to use the LP EGR 90% of the time, but that combine with the hot charge air from the turbo can still melt the manifold if the intercooler can't keeps up. Maybe the computer derated to prevent a fire. Someone can monitor and note down their IAT B1S2 sensor reading when derated and let us know.

 

[Rusty PW]

On my iDash. I monitor the inlet air before the turbo, and inlet manifold air temps. The air before the turbo is around 95 after warm up, and stays there for the most part unless I sit at a red light. The manifold temps are in the 300 range for the most part.

One test that I've been doing lately. Up hill for about 1.5 miles. Pedal to the metal from about 60 mph up to where it won't go any faster which is 97 mph. Watch my boost climb to 29.6. Then start to pull back around 25 once I hit 97 mph. EGT climbs to 1,500+. then starts to lower with boost reduction. Air temp to turbo stays around 100. Inlet manifold temps into the high 300's. The outside air temps have been in the low 90's with high humidity. I've done this testing since I found my boost leak and wanted to know if it was still leaking. It doesn't take long to hit 97 mph. Without the speed limiter. I believe 120 mph could be done easy. MT tires really are singing at those speeds. LOL

 

[FC1]

I’m starting to consider it’s somewhere else than the turbo. I didn’t clear the code this time. Coming home I ran the jeep pretty hard. The check engine light went away by its self.
So, has anyone with a delete had this problem?

Sponsored