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M0untainM4n

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I measured the hole to hole distance with a compass (divider), transferred it to a piece of cardboard template, poked holes in the cardboard with a pen, and transferred to the ABS. Then I drilled holes in the ABS.
Perfect! Hitting Amazon now...I'll post some pics when done towards the end of the month or early Feb.
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MrKnowitall

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Every connection adds resistance and you’re talking big current. I melted the case around a battery terminal when I has my win lead under the pinch bolt. Adding another solenoid and connections will lead to more voltage drop at the motor. Consider mounting the whole control pack near the battery and connecting to the winch motor from there. That way the long cables are already switched power. Pulling your control power off ignition switched source is good thinking.
 

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You could also buy the JL Audio fuse mounting bracket or make your own from bent aluminum :)
Jeep Gladiator To Solenoid or Not E819D815-D87C-459D-9047-B07F041A098B


Don’t mind the random wires and disconnected snorkel. Making some brackets myself right now.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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And people wonder why I keep scraps of aluminum strap, old brackets and braces, aluminum angle in various sizes and so on.

In this pic, almost every part of the throttle linkage and some of the transmission throttle linkage (some call it "kick-down" linkage) are from my parts bins. The round rod for the link between the two carbs - from an old bathroom sink drain setup. It's the rod you pushed or pulled to open or close the drain - chrome plated brass. Some of it's aluminum stock I had from other projects.

Jeep Gladiator To Solenoid or Not carb-linkage-full
 
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M0untainM4n

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You could also buy the JL Audio fuse mounting bracket or make your own from bent aluminum :)
Jeep Gladiator To Solenoid or Not carb-linkage-full


Don’t mind the random wires and disconnected snorkel. Making some brackets myself right now.
Yeah I looked at that JL mounting bracket... $80...ouch. I think I will try the $9 ABS piece first and see how that goes. I just hope it doesnt get brittle and crack. An aluminum piece would be a decent way to go as well.
 

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Yeah I looked at that JL mounting bracket... $80...ouch. I think I will try the $9 ABS piece first and see how that goes. I just hope it doesnt get brittle and crack. An aluminum piece would be a decent way to go as well.
I snagged mine on a sale, but I 1000% agree. I’d already had a couple fuse holders crack under my hood, so I bit the bullet on that one. Just check every couple months.

After that experience and seeing how like every custom bracket is about the same price (if not more!), I bought a press brake last year :) Has already paid for itself in new brackets!
 

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Yeah I looked at that JL mounting bracket... $80...ouch. I think I will try the $9 ABS piece first and see how that goes. I just hope it doesnt get brittle and crack. An aluminum piece would be a decent way to go as well.
Go to Menards or Lowe's and but a short piece of aluminum angle stock. You'll find uses for the rest of it later. You can easily cut, file, sand and smooth and paint with a textured paint if you wish.....It will last as long as the rest of the truck.
 

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I used the cutoff switch that came with my winch. It's manual, but someone would have to open the hood to turn it on. So if some fool blows a stop light, I don't have battery power at the bumper/grill.

20201017_135923_HDR.jpg
@M0untainM4n

K.I.S.S. applies here. The manual switches are super simple, relatively cheap, and damn near idiot proof. It's not like you're cycling your winch all the time and you'll need to get out to the front to hook it up either way - popping the hood isn't that much an issue IMO. You can just leave the sPOD out of it unless you want to connect it to the solenoid on the winch for a lockout control.
 

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You could also buy the JL Audio fuse mounting bracket or make your own from bent aluminum :)
Jeep Gladiator To Solenoid or Not carb-linkage-full


Don’t mind the random wires and disconnected snorkel. Making some brackets myself right now.
Not to derail this thread but how is the clearance on that snorkel tube to the battery and fender? I really want one (and it's wife-approved) but my Switch Pros is mounted right there next to the battery and I feel like the tube is going to hit it. I'd really rather not tear out the battery tray again to re-route the control cable...
 
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M0untainM4n

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@M0untainM4n

K.I.S.S. applies here. The manual switches are super simple, relatively cheap, and damn near idiot proof. It's not like you're cycling your winch all the time and you'll need to get out to the front to hook it up either way - popping the hood isn't that much an issue IMO. You can just leave the sPOD out of it unless you want to connect it to the solenoid on the winch for a lockout control.
Yes... the lockout was one of main reasons for using the SPod for the same reason I use it for my ARB Twin Compressor. I can see my son taking the Jeep out offroading and gets himself into a pickle and decides to use the winch w/o the engine running. Then I get a big tow/rescue/jump bill :CWL:
 

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Not to derail this thread but how is the clearance on that snorkel tube to the battery and fender? I really want one (and it's wife-approved) but my Switch Pros is mounted right there next to the battery and I feel like the tube is going to hit it. I'd really rather not tear out the battery tray again to re-route the control cable...
I pulled the steel pipe that comes with it because it could come in contact with the battery terminals and replaced it with a length of silicon tube as a short term fix. That works, but isn’t as clean as I’d like.

As mentioned I’m testing some bracket designs to put the metal pipe back without it interfering with the battery or any of the other electronics I have in there.

I’ll be posting pictures as I play with it.
 

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I pulled the steel pipe that comes with it because it could come in contact with the battery terminals and replaced it with a length of silicon tube as a short term fix. That works, but isn’t as clean as I’d like.

As mentioned I’m testing some bracket designs to put the metal pipe back without it interfering with the battery or any of the other electronics I have in there.

I’ll be posting pictures as I play with it.
Damn... guess I'm going to have to do some re-wiring here then.
 

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That's what I did to mount the solenoid cut off and run it to the aux switches. You can't run the winch off the aux switches due to the high current, but the solenoid works just fine.

Use the forum search feature for my posts and you can find the picture of the install.

Go to Menards or Lowe's and but a short piece of aluminum angle stock. You'll find uses for the rest of it later. You can easily cut, file, sand and smooth and paint with a textured paint if you wish.....It will last as long as the rest of the truck.
 
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M0untainM4n

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That's what I did to mount the solenoid cut off and run it to the aux switches. You can't run the winch off the aux switches due to the high current, but the solenoid works just fine.

Use the forum search feature for my posts and you can find the picture of the install.
Found your post... you used the aluminum angle and did a paint match. It looks very nice.
 

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I went through this quandary myself and decided on some M8x1.25 knurled thumb nuts to connect the winch positive cable to the battery when I needed to use it. Dirt cheap, takes a minute to open the hood to connect/disconnect and no worries about a short in an accident.
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