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Manual Transmission Club

Westcoastflea

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Awesome, that’s what I was hoping to hear, I've heard horror stories of 10-12mpg with lift and oversized tires (37”-40”). My commute is 3 miles each way and I have 3 other cars so that won’t matter to me. It’s really the long cross country trips where the range anxiety would creep in, but at 15mpg that’s not bad at all.

guess I’m getting 37” - Patagonia m/t or wildpeak m/t , we’ll see what deals I can find.
 

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Awesome, that’s what I was hoping to hear, I've heard horror stories of 10-12mpg with lift and oversized tires (37”-40”). My commute is 3 miles each way and I have 3 other cars so that won’t matter to me. It’s really the long cross country trips where the range anxiety would creep in, but at 15mpg that’s not bad at all.

guess I’m getting 37” - Patagonia m/t or wildpeak m/t , we’ll see what deals I can find.
The Patagonia’s are all the rage for price vs capability, but I haven’t really seen/heard how their long term durability is because they are so new.. the Glad rubi’s come optional stock with the wildpeak M/T’s and ill say they are an attractive off-road tire, but how do they hold up? Are they worth the 37” upgrade?
 

hawkijon

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Thought about it this morning and was curious. Say the battery is dead in a manual Jeep JL/JT, are you still able to old school pop the clutch in a low gear to get the engine going again? Figured the push button start would present an issue in the process..
 

Mightytalldude

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Thought about it this morning and was curious. Say the battery is dead in a manual Jeep JL/JT, are you still able to old school pop the clutch in a low gear to get the engine going again? Figured the push button start would present an issue in the process..
I had the same thought a few pages back, and don't seem to have an answer if it's possible.
 

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Gatorized

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Dead battery should still have enough juice to turn on the electronics, just not spin the starter.
 

giskard

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I think I remember this coming up on a thread a couple of months ago. If I remember correctly there is a procedure to do this that involves holding the key fob up against the starter button. I don't have a Gladiator yet so I don't have an owners manual to refer to to be sure.
 

Gatorized

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procedure involves holding the key fob up against the starter button. .
This is for a dead battery in the key fob. Hold fob next to start button, then start.
 

jalbrecht55

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Also, your comments about "shifting by wire", I assume you are talking about the disconnected feel of the shifter in a front wheel drive vehicle that uses cables going from the shifter to the transmission. That is not the case with the Gladiator's 6 speed, which is a "top-loader" transmission, meaning the shifter bolts directly to the transmission and controls the shift rails and forks inside through direct contact.
I could be wrong but I’m fairly sure the JL and JT manual trans actually is cable shifted.

This install video on the link below shows the cables:

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/2018-19_jeep_wrangler_jl_-_b_m_sportshifter_transfer_case_handle/
 

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Elwenil

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I could be wrong but I’m fairly sure the JL and JT manual trans actually is cable shifted.

This install video on the link below shows the cables:

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/2018-19_jeep_wrangler_jl_-_b_m_sportshifter_transfer_case_handle/
It seems you are correct. I looked at the transmission assembly in the catalog and not the shifter and it seemed to be a toploader, similar to the JK. But no, it seems the AL6 transmission in the JL and JT does use shifter cables, I assume to move the shifter forward towards the dash. That's an odd choice in my opinion, it's not that difficult to move the shifter on the transmission and many manual transmissions have multiple shifter locations on the case. I thank you for bringing this to my attention as it may change my mind about buying a Gladiator as I despise shifter cables and their typically mushy bushings and just the whole "disconnected" feel. I've dealt with that enough with FWD vehicles in my life and do not want that in a Jeep that I would be taking off road. Perhaps someone will make some stiffer polyurethane bushings that will improve the feel but the cables are still another thing to wear out and break and leave you stranded on the trail.
 

jrf

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They're 17s. AEV Pintler JLs. 112 lbs per wheel/tire.
Noticed you are in PA. Does that tire wheel combo pass inspection? I'm wanting the AEV wheels but need to make sure they will keep the 12.5s under the flares. I'm in Erie.
 

chrcal14

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Noticed you are in PA. Does that tire wheel combo pass inspection? I'm wanting the AEV wheels but need to make sure they will keep the 12.5s under the flares. I'm in Erie.
I don't think I'll have a problem. They're out less than the JK I've been getting inspected for years.

If you look at it dead straight down, it's the sidewall gnarly bits that stick out, not the flat tread cleats. If they're out, it's barely.

I chose them specifically for that, I'm not a big fan of tires out past the fenders anyways as it's just that much more sin flying up the side of the Jeep.

Even with it, I have quite a bit just from driving around at work.

Jeep Gladiator Manual Transmission Club 20190922_134732-
 

hawkijon

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I don't think I'll have a problem. They're out less than the JK I've been getting inspected for years.

If you look at it dead straight down, it's the sidewall gnarly bits that stick out, not the flat tread cleats. If they're out, it's barely.

I chose them specifically for that, I'm not a big fan of tires out past the fenders anyways as it's just that much more sin flying up the side of the Jeep.

Even with it, I have quite a bit just from driving around at work.

20190922_134732-jpg.jpg
This is unrelated to your topic, but could you send a photo of your trail cam view. Curious how much the bull bar interferes with the view..
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