When I do differentials. I have a huge pipe wrench I can use, or for AMC differentials, I have a tool that is a long handle with an inert that bolts to the pinion yoke and is open in the middle for a socket.
Motive gear- at least on JK’s I was able to use the same shin stack on the three I did (pinion shims)
Edit-- yes I did.Did you remember to lock tight the ring gear bolts?
You don’t necessarily have to pull the carrier to pull the ring gear bolts out one by one and apply.
I'm almost at the 500 mile marker. So far, so good. MPG back down into the 16s now, which is disappointing. So for all intents and purposes, no MPG improvement. I'm not sure why it's taken a slump, as I'm still easy on it as best I can. I'll update again when I change the oil.
After your post I texted my F-I-L who was helping me. He did loctite the ring gear bolts while I was looking for the torque wrench. Whew. We both got annoyed at the XX/lbs feet plus 45 degree thing on the ring gear bolts.You don’t necessarily have to pull the carrier to pull the ring gear bolts out one by one and apply.
The photos I put up were from my JK….
More beer and BSing was commencing upon reassembly than should have been…. Couple thousand miles in felt/found this.
It’s worth the extra time and effort to apply it…. I know a guy
In all fairness, I had a full-blown mechanic helping me, a lift, and a mechanic's shop worth of tools. This is by no means a DIY. I'm a lawyer by trade and gears is far more challenging that grasping any legal concept I've ever learned. I've "done" (watched) gears on my own cars twice now and still would be clueless doing it alone. My role was easy, taking off the steering, brakes, axles, diff covers, carrier botls, track bars, tires, etc, while my FIL did the bench work and measuring. He did a lot of backlash/preload by feel, which takes a lot of experience.
And thus the special bolt-on tool. It can't slip.
Do you wish you tried 5:13s ? I am running 5:13s with 37s, but, I have a stick shift JTR. So, I really wanted that low, low 1st gear with the Rubicon transfer case for Rock Crawling. I have been super happy with the 5:13s. On road and off road. MPG has also been great. For me, there is no comparison to the 4:10s.... but, of course, I had to slip the clutch with the 4:10s instead of letting the torque convertor do the work with the 37s.16.7 before, which is about on par, and 17.6 after 1 normal trip. It’s reading 20 mpg now, but that’s due to the break in driving— about 40 mph top speed.
This isn’t a “don’t regear” thread, but I know a LOT of people are on 4.10s and wondering if it’s worth it to jump to 4.88s. On my old Jeep, the jump from 3.21s to 4.56 was night-day. This, from what I can tell, is not night day. More of dusk-night difference.
In a vacuum, 4.88s are spot on and would be my choice if I ordered my Jeep from a menu. But here I am in the real world, with my own shop, wholesale prices, and someone helping me install. I think part of my apprehension is that my Jeep has 16k miles, and I pulled out parts that were pretty much new. I’d be much happier inside if I knew the seals and bearings were worn.
I will update the post after the breakin period and see how I feel.
Nah. I like the RPMS on the highway with 4.88s. 2k at 70. I live in the flatter desert areas in the SW. I also have the regular X-fer case. 5.13 would be too tall I think, I don't like the idea of skipping gears because they effectively lose usefulness if the ratio is too tall. This rig is also my daily driver so I wanted it to simply be close to stock. I believe my MPG issue is that my tires do best at 35 psi, and its been 115+ daily on the regular.
