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Weight distribution hitch

Scratch

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So what are you guys using for your weight distribution hitches?
I will be towing an Apex nano 191 RBS. It's a single axle trailer about 3, 500lbs empty and about 4, 500lbs full And requires a 2 and 5/16 ball.
There are so many different options at various prices.
Thanks
Scratch
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brianinca

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We use a Husky because it's quiet (no chains) and has anti-sway baked in. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W919F4K/
Ouch the price is $90 higher now than what I paid!

The downside is weight, 100 lbs off the truck payload, but it tows nice and smooth. I haven't got that sense of binding I've heard about with the arm based anti-sway systems.

I'm considering, or was considering, spending the extra $$ on an Anderson system, as that would get me 40-50lbs of payload back. Between not feeling like I need it, yet, and the owner being a convicted jerk vandal of public lands, I haven't changed over.
 

Josh00333

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Anderson’s no other. Lighter, simple great set up.
 
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Scratch

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We use a Husky because it's quiet (no chains) and has anti-sway baked in. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W919F4K/
Ouch the price is $90 higher now than what I paid!

The downside is weight, 100 lbs off the truck payload, but it tows nice and smooth. I haven't got that sense of binding I've heard about with the arm based anti-sway systems.

I'm considering, or was considering, spending the extra $$ on an Anderson system, as that would get me 40-50lbs of payload back. Between not feeling like I need it, yet, and the owner being a convicted jerk vandal of public lands, I haven't changed over.
Do you have any issues backing up with that setup?
I also looked at the Anderson system after reading your post. Seems like those who have tried it love it.
I do like how the Husky doesn't hang down real far. Some systems hang down much more than others.
 

Jaxmax

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I researched a lot and was going Anderson, but couple things I didn’t like. Blue Ox expensive but very good reviews, called customer service about bar weight rating and girl answering the phone knew answer which was, for the sway control to work properly, you have to go above your tongue weight as little as possible, the Winnebago camper ( 1706FB) I’m going to get has a 300-350 tongue weight and I have 550lb. bars. I handled the expensive end by buying a used setup off facebook for $200 with 1500lb. bars and bought 550lb. Take off bars from local dealer for $50. So for $250, I have a heavy ,well designed WDH that looks like new..Jack
 

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Husky Centerline TS.

The way the bars mount to the trunions is better, stronger, and simpler. The friction pads instead of chains gives you sway control. And overall it's just a super high quality unit for a good price.
 

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I have the Blue Ox WD and sway control. Works AWESOMELY!!! Dunno how much I paid for it because it was all bundled into the price of the trailer when I bought it.
 

brianinca

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No issues backing up. Longer trailers seem easier to aim, though.

Jeep Gladiator Weight distribution hitch PXL_20210418_180908696 - Copy


Do you have any issues backing up with that setup?
I also looked at the Anderson system after reading your post. Seems like those who have tried it love it.
I do like how the Husky doesn't hang down real far. Some systems hang down much more than others.
 

TRI-JAB

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I tow an RPod 192 with my JT Rubicon using a Curt Weight Distribution Hitch (6,000 lbs GTW / 600 lbs TW) and I added the Curt Friction Sway Control. Works very well for us.

Jeep Gladiator Weight distribution hitch 3C29A9A7-35F3-44D4-B596-102CFD7B88EF
 
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I use the Fastway e2 with 800 lb trunnion bars. Towing a 2019 Grand Design Imagine XLS 17 MKE (5795 GVWR).
 

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No issues backing up. Longer trailers seem easier to aim, though.

PXL_20210418_180908696 - Copy.jpg
They are (longer easier, etc.) I've backed everything from short campers to boats to long camper and combine head trailers. The longer, the easier to maneuver, IMO. Short tends to react faster and get out of line more quickly.

We use a Husky because it's quiet (no chains) and has anti-sway baked in.
I am curious - I've used both types in the past, one was an extremely heavy-duty setup with chains at the trailer end - why do you say it's quieter without chains? I've never noticed any noise, never heard the hitch. (it was on a huge flatbed that I used to haul tractors, antique engines, etc. - trailer empty likely weighed over 3,000 pounds, bud type wheels)
 

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I have the Recurve R3 with 400lb bars for a GeoPro 3200lbs dry, 4200lbs loaded. Have to grease it every week or so, but easy to use with easy to adjust loading and sway control.

While measured hitch weight is 495lbs, the 400lb bars put on by the RV dealer may not be enough, as even with the loading thumbscrew adjusted out 3/4 of the way (moving the bar ends down), the rear end at the center of the wheel fender goes from 38" with no camper, down to 36" without WDH bars engaged, and up to 36.5" with WDH bars. The front end numbers are 36, 36.3, 35.4. So the front is being torqued down properly with the WDH. But without the trailer rear is 2" higher, vs with trailer and WDH rear is only an inch higher. Doesn't sound bad, but it means I have to adjust the headlights for driving with the camper and live with really low headlights when just in the truck... or if I leave the headlights set correctly for just the truck, then the headlights are WAAAY too high to drive at night pulling the camper. Not sure if switching to 600lb bars would give me closer to the same amount of drop on front and back while towing.

What strength bars vs tongue weight is everybody else running? I see in this thread a lot of folks running 20% or more higher bars than tongue weight, versus I'm at 20% under. Sounds like I should try the 600s for sure?
 
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Scratch

Scratch

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I'm thinking about the Anderson set up. I have two concerns. One is they say you need to turn off the sway control in the truck to use it. Second is their website says a minimum of 350lbs tongue weight for the sway system to work. I estimate mine to be about 450. Will that be enough to work correctly?
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