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Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)?

MGladiator83

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Just curious why everyone decided on their trim level?

I was initially going to go all out and get a LE gladiator and then decided I could get a decently decked out max tow AND a new 2019 Honda Accord sport for about the same price. I ran the numbers and it made sense to me.

I definitely dig the Mojave’s, rubicons and LEs out there, but every time I see both my rides I don’t think twice about the decision. For the summer, I leave the gladiator garaged with doors/top removed etc, drive on the super nice days or when I need to use it as a truck, or just want to have fun driving it. Those days when it’s rainy or super super hot, or cold, I drive the accord. I’m doing about a 70/30 split miles wise accord/gladiator ratio. I do about 100 miles a day in commute so it just makes sense to me spreading the miles over both. To this day I get excited jumping in Both!

Anyone else go with a sport + another car vs higher end trim gladiator?

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Rubicon, for the Dana 44’s, Transfercase, and lockers are the primary reasons. Secondary the Rubicon holds its value and is the most desired. My last two Rubicons Driven hard held up and I got amazing trade ins when upgrading to new model years. All my rigs where heavily modified so I know I will never get the money back, but dealers don’t take those mods into consideration only factory trim level, mileage and condition. So why not buy a rig that will hold its value and give you the most back.
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Jack'D

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I got the Sport S.. I went with what I thought was a good deal for the options I wanted with out getting to many options that I didn't care about. I get a Supplier discount, but I didn't order my truck, I just watched what was rolling off the line and had my dealer ship it up from Toledo.
My search criteria was the cold weather package, the Alpine radio, and a soft top. After those items I didn't care much. My last wrangler was an 06' Rubicon, and frankly, here in S.E. Michigan, there ain't much need for all that hardware to justify an extra $10k or more.. IMHO
 
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J.Noack

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Rubicon, for the Dana 44’s, Transfercase, and lockers are the primary reasons. Secondary the Rubicon holds its value and is the most desired. My last two Rubicons Driven hard held up and I got amazing trade ins when upgrading to new model years. All my rigs where heavily modified so I know I will never get the money back, but dealers don’t take those mods into consideration only factory trim level, mileage and condition. So why not buy a rig that will hold its value and give you the most back.
Ditto, perfectly said.
 

Delhux

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Fully loaded Overland.

I liked the leather interior, hated the idea of 4.10 gears, and would never use lockers/disconnecting sway bars. I also liked the Overland rims better.

Difference in price between a loaded Overland and loaded Rubicon was negligible, but the Overland gave me everything I wanted and allowed me to avoid the stuff I definitely didn’t want.
 
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Hmmmm....... I wonder why I chose the color and wheel color I did... :angel: ;)

This is my trademark paint color and black wheels. Has been since 2005...Well, that color didn't quite exist back then, but close...

Traded this...

Jeep Gladiator Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)? IMG_9118


For this...

Jeep Gladiator Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)? IMG_0743


And immediately turned it into this... In a span of 1 month. :devil:

Jeep Gladiator Why did everyone decide their trim level (sport vs rubicon etc)? JTR
 

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Barth Vader

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Rubicon.

I told my accountant that I wanted a Gladiator. He then told me about the $25,000 179 deduction for a truck with a GVWR > 6,000lbs. The Overland was 5,800lbs. The Rubicon was 6,250.

I love my accountant.
 

PyrPatriot

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Rubicon.

I told my accountant that I wanted a Gladiator. He then told me about the $25,000 179 deduction for a truck with a GVWR > 6,000lbs. The Overland was 5,800lbs. The Rubicon was 6,250.

I love my accountant.
Sport S Max Tow is also a GVWR of 6250
 

eaglerugby04

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I ended up going Rubicon after playing way to much with the customization tool. When I ordered though 8.4 inch display wasn't available on the max tow, overland wasn't an option due to the lower tow rating.

After pricing many times back and forth and counting in the cost of replacing the terrible stock wheels and tires the cost for the rubicon I wanted became within such a small gap that getting lockers, sway bar, the fenders, hood and that 8.4 inch screen I wanted just made a ton of sense to me.

I also did an odd custom build where I have one of the lowest cost rubicons around. Only upgrades were the radio, cargo managment, and aux switches. Soft top only as well.

Works well for me since Like the OP I leave the top and doors off all the time. I kept my paid off prius as well to have something to drive in the cold weather and rain when I can't take the stripped down JT out. Though the Covid situation has me questioning that a little. 3 months and maybe 500 total miles on all my cars, lol.
 

TrainMan

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Sport S mostly for price. Hardtop because I like the looks, and probably won't be removing the top very often. Max tow for the 4:10 gears because they'll help with larger tires. Alpine because I love my music and spend alot of money to get the best sound possible.
 

on_order

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Since I wanted to tweak a lot, I also went with Sport S w/ max tow. I did an inventory search based on those and the local inventory was sparse. I ended up with a black with a sprayed in liner and the winter package which i am sure i will not be hating...

too many irons in the fire but i already want to look into tonneau covers next...
 

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Bunchahoopla

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basic sport....Had all the features I wanted from factory: 6 speed manual, spray in liner, hard top, and tow hitch with larger alternator. Out the door for 32k with the February rebates and can build it how I want. Already have phase one done for cosmetics and functionality. Black rhino arsenals on 35s, Rubi suspension, Teraflex front with daystar rear spacer, Rubi rock rails, led tail lights, mopar 3 piece bumper, Oracle head lights, fox stabilizer, tazer and insane audio 9” radio....scored some Rubi high clearance fenders as well but they have trail rash and I need to work on them. Happy with the purchase and glad I went with the sport. I will eventually add dynatrac axles with arb lockers so hopefully I can hang with the rubicons

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TJDave

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I wanted the towing capacity, wider D44 axles, and 4.10 gears. Max Tows are hard to find in my area.
So, Rubicon it is.
 

Jdyowa

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I went with the Overland. There are no mountains in Florida and I drive 40 miles each way to work. The Overland was loaded and to get the options I wanted on a Rubicon, it was going to be even more $.
My last JKU was a Ruby and the lockers are kind of overkill, most of the time.
That said, if I ever regear, I will add them.
Get the cheapest with the essential options and do the big stuff on the side. You will save money, get better gear, and have a great story to tell.
 

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I have had around 7 Jeeps. Once the Sport "S" became a thing, I pretty much stuck with that level and added some features (add Max Tow, 4.10, etc).

I found it to be a pretty solid resale price point (depending on how many things I added after). A lot of the features you can add later (at less cost). But not all of course.

You can find a lot of parts taken off other Jeeps (New). Tires, Wheels, Shocks, running boards, etc.
 
 



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