Looking more at it, I think this is the internal winch solenoid found inside the control box of the winch itself. The other wiring diagram doesn't even match the labels I posted above.
Doesn't look like "standard" relay to me. Relays have a coil + and - and the switch contacts.
Yes, otherwise you'd not break the negative. This is the control box that swaps + and - around to reverse the winch motor. Nothing standard about it as far as being a relay. It reverses connections.
i meant to say solenoid. It can be wired to engage and act as a on/off solenoid.
Why?
This solenoid is designed to operate the in and out of a winch motor. That is not how I am planning to use it. It is able to isolate both the positive and negative feed from the battery. This is why I chose this route. When you switch either in or out, two posts are positive and two posts are negative. So, as long as you know which posts to connect for in(or out) and you only ever switch on that direction, you will provide both positive and negative directly to the winch. This will only provide a feed connection and not control the winch.Why?
Yes, it would act like a "solenoid" if you ignored the other two big posts.
IMO, it's a waste of space and not as tidy, but if that's the choice - it can be done.
You'll want to insulate those extra posts, it will be bulky.
I'd never recommend it to anyone to use as a winch cut-off solenoid because the other posts may be hot depending on the mode it's in.
I bet people grab it not knowing what it really is, or sellers out there sell to unsuspecting folks hawking it as a winch cutoff solenoid.
One in, one out, and a simple low-current coil. It's sold for winches and fits almost anywhere.
F53 wireless speaker is the fuse I replaced with the piggyback. My piggyback fuse came with my s-tech Aux switch kit. The instructions gave me the location of the fuse to swap it with.
I don't have a bluetooth speaker so idk if the fuse is there but I'm guessing any fuse will work? Or at least one that engine has to be on to work.F53 wireless speaker is the fuse I replaced with the piggyback. My piggyback fuse came with my s-tech Aux switch kit. The instructions gave me the location of the fuse to swap it with.
You can piggy back it to the 12v outlet fuse. That way it will only work with ign on or engine running.
Yeah, I know exactly what it is and how it works - already "got the point" as to what it was and how it worked (electric is my thing) - I was just wondering why such a complex device when all you need to do is break the hot cable to the winch up front.This solenoid is designed to operate the in and out of a winch motor. That is not how I am planning to use it. It is able to isolate both the positive and negative feed from the battery. This is why I chose this route. When you switch either in or out, two posts are positive and two posts are negative. So, as long as you know which posts to connect for in(or out) and you only ever switch on that direction, you will provide both positive and negative directly to the winch. This will only provide a feed connection and not control the winch.
By connecting only one side to a switch, it will only engage a single polarity connection.
I know what it is, and I know why I chose it.
I am attaching a couple of illustrations. Basically, they show which posts are shorted when either in or out is activated. Based on that, only ever activating one switch input will result in one SET of positive and one SET of negative posts on the solenoid.
I still have to verify the in and out and which posts it actually shorts together. The illustrations are not necessarily exact yet. But you should get the point.
Also, because I have the Lasfit Aux switches relay box also installed by the battery, this device will fit in the narrow opening that remains.
Ended up going down to advance and picked up one of the add a circuit fuses for the switch. I'm going to wire it up today. It has 2 fuse spots for the old circuit and the new. Not sure what you meant by it can go 2 directions
