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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

RMFSJT

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installed paint-matched mirror caps w/turn signal cutouts on my Sport S. Also incorporated a courtesy light underneath to light up the ground when unlocking/opening the doors.
Were you able to just put the new painted mirror caps on your existing housing or did you have to change those out to? It’s my understanding I can just get the caps and put those on my existing mirrors. Second question how was it wiring those signals up?
 

Geoarch

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Got rid of a clunk, and got my LCA skid to fit with my Clayton FAD skid.
I’ve been having a clunk when switching forward/reverse, couldn’t figure it out but assumed from either loose LCA bolts from the Rock Hard skids, or other control arm bolts from putting the spacer lift and geometry brackets on. Also tightened the drag link and tie rod ends, which I could grab and rotate a degree or two and make them clunk.
That’s normal “play” for those, right?

The bolt on the LCA skid went like a whole turn or more before hitting 190. And the upper frame bolts on the geometry brackets tightened a little as well. All others still in spec.

for the skid plates, I’m sad I didn’t do this sooner. Only took me ten mins to cut with the angle grinder.
The Rock Hard bolts are pretty long, so I had to notch the Clayton skid to make room for the bolt. Did that in place with a dremel.

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Do you have stock LCAs or the Clayton lift? I assume the lattter. Did the LCA stay in place when you removed the bolt? I had a hell of a time putting in the front LCA with the Mopar lift. I did finally use blocks under the wheels and knocked them with a sledge. Maybe I'm just confused (again).
 

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Geoarch

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Umm, looks like the original reached 99 pages and was closed for more replies. So keep posting here!

I had tint done to front 2 windows, bug deflector installed, wayout style wrap installed, tires cleaned. 303 applied to tonneau cover.

EDIT: forgot to mention possibly the most important mod, ceramic coated grille, grille guard, and double ceramic coated windshield. FU bugs! Try sticking to all my ceramic now..... Stupid bugs.

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Installed the Tazer Mini: changed tire size, lowered TPMS pressure, and permanently turned off the ESS. What a relief to not have to worry about the ESS.
 

22EcoDs

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The Synergy front spring swap............. it went well but disappointed in the "lift" it ended up with.
Only .5" over stock.
Stock the truck measured 21.5" from the center of the wheel/hub to the ridge on the fender.
The steel bumper, winch and winch plate took it down to 20.75"
With the new springs, it's sitting at 22".
But I guess they were correct in that it would lift a loaded Rubicon 1".
If you consider my Overland loaded with that weight up front gained back what was lost from the weight and then a bit more, it's "as advertised" at least.
I can always later add the Daystar .75" spacers I have on the top at a later time if I wish.

So the result - bone stock it was 21.5", now it's 22". And that's with the steel bumper, 2" receiver and winch on front.

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I always measure from the center of the hub/wheel to this point as it is a way to compare suspension without regard to tire size or tire inflation. It won't matter if the tires are 32" or 33", this compares the height difference springs or spacers make, not tires.

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Why didn't you just go with Clayton which are meant for weight ?
 

PaJeeper

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Finally got around to installing my bumpers. Motobilt hammer front and rear. They’ve been sitting around powder coated for about 2 months now, but between vacation, work and normal around the house stuff they got put on the back burner. Besides installing my Quake headlights probably my last mod for the year, gotta get in the shop and start making stuff for Christmas. Next spring will be Motobilt crusher rocker armor with steps if I can convince myself that I’m comfortable with drilling into the trucks body

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NachoRuby

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Xtreme Recon flare extensions installed. Fronts were easy. Rears required a little creativity. I used fronts on the rear, per the suggestions of @21Moja , to gain a bit more coverage. It looks OK, I guess. But, most importantly, it's legal, and I can pass inspection without swapping tires and wheels.
Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG20220910201312
Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG20220910193802
Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG20220910181040
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Why didn't you just go with Clayton which are meant for weight ?
Springs "meant for weight" are a higher rate, meaning stiffer, meaning you lose that silky smooth ride and highway manners.

These did exactly as advertised and maintain a great ride and good highway manners.

Having towed with it now in this configuration, it's going to be fine.
Stiffer springs would have meant the front end would have gone up a lot more than it did with the trailer weight on it.
After loading up both home before leaving and over there before coming back home, the front end went up a bit with the trailer weight - I'm glad these springs weren't any stiffer or it would have gone up more.
 

USMC_1Wire6337

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Xtreme Recon flare extensions installed. Fronts were easy. Rears required a little creativity. I used fronts on the rear, per the suggestions of @21Moja , to gain a bit more coverage. It looks OK, I guess. But, most importantly, it's legal, and I can pass inspection without swapping tires and wheels.
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At what stage was the orange persuader needed?
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