Anyone running the Fox 3.0’s?

[Sduncan]

Update on the 3.0s. The suspension is getting dialed at the Because Stock Sucks shop in Oakhurst, Ca. Using almost all the shock travel on all 4 corners with about 3-1/2" bumpstop. Front 3.0s are 10.72" travel, rears are 9.42". Metalcloak rear adjustable control arms and trackbar, WFO front long arm kit with Metalcloak joints on the front. The front long arm really helps to keep the lower bumpstops lined up with the Mojave factory hydraulic bumps. It's sitting on EVO 4.5" coils. The Metalcloak rear 3.5" coils sagged way too much with the added weight. Should be driving it next week.

Jeremiah know his stuff with the MC parts and Foxes to get all you can out of them. Good dude right there.

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[guarnibl]

It was explained to me that the Fox 3.0’s just can’t be made soft enough — there’s always a big trade off in terms of ride quality on road for an internal bypass shock of that diameter to take the significantly larger hits the 3.0 can take over the 2.5. Or at least — that’s how I interpreted their messaging. And thus they don’t sell/tune them.

if you wanted the best of both worlds you’d want a custom setup — external bypass etc. Probably a better route but significantly more $$$ both in shocks and tuning time.

 

[chadinsc]

So you bought a Mojave and changed out one of the main components that make it a Mojave. Interesting.

im sure there are alot of rubicons with arb air lockers and heck even full replacement axles. but i get what your saying. thats a sweet rig though

 

[piroman683]

The 2.5 DSC and 3.0 IBP have the same piston diameter. The 3.0 are valves much stiffer because it has bypass in the ride zone.

I finally got my 2.5s back from getting revalved, it took a while because I also needed new shafts for the rears due to chipping of the plating. Anyway, on road ride is still great, off roading at high speed is much better. Hitting whoops about 10mph faster. However, the shocks are running much hotter as expected. So it would be nice to have cooling fins but I'm not racing the Baja so it's fine.

At this point, and after lots of discussion with suspension tuners for trophy trucks, the 3.0 IPB are not really worth it, especially the rear since shock travel is pretty limited. Also, I have the fox IFP bump stops on all for corners so it helps with bottoming out already.

 

[guarnibl]

The 2.5 DSC and 3.0 IBP have the same piston diameter. The 3.0 are valves much stiffer because it has bypass in the ride zone.

I finally got my 2.5s back from getting revalved, it took a while because I also needed new shafts for the rears due to chipping of the plating. Anyway, on road ride is still great, off roading at high speed is much better. Hitting whoops about 10mph faster. However, the shocks are running much hotter as expected. So it would be nice to have cooling fins but I'm not racing the Baja so it's fine.

At this point, and after lots of discussion with suspension tuners for trophy trucks, the 3.0 IPB are not really worth it, especially the rear since shock travel is pretty limited. Also, I have the fox IFP bump stops on all for corners so it helps with bottoming out already.

You're better off going C/O route with an external bypass ($$$) than the 3.0 IPB and otherwise, sticking to the 2.5's. If you don't want to go that route, not sure there's another option if you're truly smashing it through the desert constantly. I didn't want to spend the money, have more custom fab work, and then on top of that I change weight a lot.

 

[piroman683]

You're better off going C/O route with an external bypass ($$$) than the 3.0 IPB and otherwise, sticking to the 2.5's. If you don't want to go that route, not sure there's another option if you're truly smashing it through the desert constantly. I didn't want to spend the money, have more custom fab work, and then on top of that I change weight a lot.

definitely agree, only real next step are true bypass shocks. The rears can fit 3.0 bypass pretty easily, just need to order a custom layout so things line up correctly. Could probably squeeze a 3.5, but if you're going that big you are better off doing things right with a full trailing arm setup. At that point you've gone full custome for mega $$$.

 

[guarnibl]

definitely agree, only real next step are true bypass shocks. The rears can fit 3.0 bypass pretty easily, just need to order a custom layout so things line up correctly. Could probably squeeze a 3.5, but if you're going that big you are better off doing things right with a full trailing arm setup. At that point you've gone full custome for mega $$$.

Yep... 3.0's kinda suck on the street on a rough road but otherwise for the price I felt they were worth it for what I do in Moab/other trails frequently. Just gets SO expensive after that.

 

[caryt]

Just bringing this up..ANY out of the box shock would benefit from live tuning, no $ spent on clicker type shocks like these will be better or cheaper than a 3 tube bypass shock setup by a live tuner.
IMO spend less get way more, get ADS 3 tube bypass's. I'd have them live tuned..included in the purchase if you get from Liberty Mountain Fab..IMO best tuner on the western US.

 

[guarnibl]

Just bringing this up..ANY out of the box shock would benefit from live tuning, no $ spent on clicker type shocks like these will be better or cheaper than a 3 tube bypass shock setup by a live tuner.
IMO spend less get way more, get ADS 3 tube bypass's. I'd have them live tuned..included in the purchase if you get from Liberty Mountain Fab..IMO best tuner on the western US.

Agreed on tuning.

Define better... I really think it depends on the use case. But I think if you're spending the kind of money that Fox 3.0's run, it's not a bad thing to look into other options. Running a coilover and external bypass was going to be more expensive in my case. My Fox 3.0's ride great now that they have 10,000 miles on them. They were super stiff on road at first. They've softened up quite a bit but still handle all the hits I can throw at them off road. I don't do high speed desert stuff that often though.

On my 392, it's a bit different story. Less weight, less wheel base, brand new Fox 3.0's -- it's frustratingly stiff. I'm probably going to go down to tuned Fox 2.5's.

In both vehicles weight changes frequently as well.

 

[caryt]

Just say if your running coil springs $ better spent on ADS bypass's that these Fox 3.0's.
Since your in AZ sometimes you may want to talk to Phil and see what he can do for those Fox's.

 

[guarnibl]

Just say if your running coil springs $ better spent on ADS bypass's that these Fox 3.0's.
Since your in AZ sometimes you may want to talk to Phil and see what he can do for those Fox's.

Ah, gotcha. I'm going to give them about 5,000 miles and see if they soften up like they did on my Gladiator. Part of the issue is, there's basically no weight in the rear -- no spare tire, aluminum genright rear bumper. It may be a case of it being impossible to soften them up enough (can only remove so much internally), and may just need to run 2.5's in the rear and maintain the 3.0's up front. May check out ADS though if I do go to replace them.

Generally speaking, I much prefer external bypass over internal bypass.

 

[caryt]

Phil can open up the pistons and change shims etc...will make a difference..Worth a call.

 

[piroman683]

Quick update on my 3.0 project. I installed custom front and rear springs (160lbs front, 145 rear). I also installed the 3.0 IPBs in the front and 3.0external 3 tube bypass in the rear with cooling circuit.

Spent a half day testing and tuning in Barstow and this thing flys. Currently rear travel is limited to 15.75in because of rear sway bar. Should be able to get another inch out of it, maybe even another 1/2 if I can find tune where my limit straps mount up.

Front is limited to 10.72 due to the shocks.

I've been too busy to detail things out. I'm heading to the Baja 400 this weekend, then next weekend I'll be working on the sway bar adjustments/customization.

 

[KevinM60]

Update on the 3.0s. The suspension is getting dialed at the Because Stock Sucks shop in Oakhurst, Ca. Using almost all the shock travel on all 4 corners with about 3-1/2" bumpstop. Front 3.0s are 10.72" travel, rears are 9.42". Metalcloak rear adjustable control arms and trackbar, WFO front long arm kit with Metalcloak joints on the front. The front long arm really helps to keep the lower bumpstops lined up with the Mojave factory hydraulic bumps. It's sitting on EVO 4.5" coils. The Metalcloak rear 3.5" coils sagged way too much with the added weight. Should be driving it next week.

I need to get me one of those ramps ?

 

[Chief_jeep]

Just read through this whole thread. For those of you running the 3.0 IBP is there any reason you chose that shock over an external bypass or a coilover? I could see why some wouldn't want a coilover in the rear if they change weight often but you could do a c/o in front and a 3.0 three tube in the rear.

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