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Fill Neck Mod

Rusty PW

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I tried again a few minutes ago. I just keep ripping the outside edge up. I really put some squeeze to it too. Mine has to be glued in.
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lkosh

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I don't think I'll get to it this week, and then I'm going to be away from the Jeep for a few weeks due to the holiday, but I'm thinking about trying to make a "tool" that might press/clamp down like the channel locks are meant to do.

Thinking two pieces of angle aluminum that'll slide between the plastic insert part and the metal tube. I'll drill some holes (on the side of the angled aluminum not sticking between the plastic insert part and metal tube) on each side of the filler neck and run a bolt down each for the clamping force. Hopefully that'll essentially do the same thing and let me pull it out.

But if anyone has other ideas or another way to get it to work, I'm all ears!
 

1Roundeye

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Today I used the channel locks with the straight jaws. Squeezed it a bit too hard and cracked it. No worries. Since it cracked on the top, I was able to use my bent screwdriver and push the tab in causing the top part to partially come up. I did use a mirror and flashlight to see the tab. I was then able to push in the tab in the front that you can see while turning it with the channel locks and it popped out. Took it to the bench, used side cutters and cut the plastic on each side of the 3 tabs and the filler flap part popped off. At this time, I filed down the insert where I screwed it up using the channel locks, cleaned everything and popped it back in place. The top tab is larger than the bottom tab FYI. The crack seemed small and it didn't look like it would be a problem and the cap screwed right back on. Just to make me feel better, I ran the Jeep with the cap off.
I'm guessing the tank is not pressurized and never saw an indicator light. So off to the truck stop we go!
Thanks for the tips you guys gave. Made it easy.
 

gcurtis79

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Today I used the channel locks with the straight jaws. Squeezed it a bit too hard and cracked it. No worries. Since it cracked on the top, I was able to use my bent screwdriver and push the tab in causing the top part to partially come up. I did use a mirror and flashlight to see the tab. I was then able to push in the tab in the front that you can see while turning it with the channel locks and it popped out. Took it to the bench, used side cutters and cut the plastic on each side of the 3 tabs and the filler flap part popped off. At this time, I filed down the insert where I screwed it up using the channel locks, cleaned everything and popped it back in place. The top tab is larger than the bottom tab FYI. The crack seemed small and it didn't look like it would be a problem and the cap screwed right back on. Just to make me feel better, I ran the Jeep with the cap off.
I'm guessing the tank is not pressurized and never saw an indicator light. So off to the truck stop we go!
Thanks for the tips you guys gave. Made it easy.
Sorry about that cracking. I was cautious that it might be an issue, but managed to avoid it myself.

JB weld makes a 'TankWeld' epoxy that could be used if an air leak becomes an issue, and shouldn't be affected by the fuel.
 

freebird_78

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For mine, it was more about the twist than the squeeze. Didn't squeeze very hard, just twisted fairly hard. You'll feel the tabs pass over the notch. Then just make sure they're clear and pull it out. I used the channel locks to pull it out of the neck. Doesn't take much effort. Did stab the hell out of my finger getting a small screwdriver under the tabs for the discriminator. Oh and it was Channel Lock 440 (12") that worked best, of all the sizes of pliers I have.

Again, if it takes you more than 5 minutes total, you're doing something wrong. Don't over think it.
 

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Z16DNA

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Well I tried; a couple times. Consider myself a pretty good mechanic; apparently, I suck. Broke off a piece on my fourth try. Fuel cap still goes on, not sure it it'll seal all the way. Ordered replacement. Hats off to those who are able to turn that thing with channel locks.
 

gcurtis79

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I must have a particularly grippy set of channel locks. Just some Ace Hardware ones I've had in my toolbox forever. I imagine the issue is that people are having them slip, so they squeeze harder where some grip a little better so you don't have to squeeze as much.

I'm sorry it's not turning out as simple for others as it was for me. ?
 

Jeepasaurus_Rex

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Are people just not using the little funnel adapter that came with the jeep? lol
 

gcurtis79

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Are people just not using the little funnel adapter that came with the jeep? lol
The funnel is actually for situations when you need to use a portable Jerry can to refuel. It's not really intended for non-standard pump sizes.

I used mine for 2 fills, but it's slow and messy, so I modded it the hard way. My issue was that at work we have larger nozzles than what fit in the discriminator. My boss prefers we use our truck diesel supply because he gets it much cheaper than pump prices. We run 50+ semi trucks and 25+ concrete mixer trucks daily, so he gets a good wholesale/bulk price.
 

Jeepasaurus_Rex

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The funnel is actually for situations when you need to use a portable Jerry can to refuel. It's not really intended for non-standard pump sizes.

I used mine for 2 fills, but it's slow and messy, so I modded it the hard way. My issue was that at work we have larger nozzles than what fit in the discriminator. My boss prefers we use our truck diesel supply because he gets it much cheaper than pump prices. We run 50+ semi trucks and 25+ concrete mixer trucks daily, so he gets a good wholesale/bulk price.
Interesting! I haven't had that problem with it. I've had to use the large bore pumps for tractors a few times and found I was able to use the funnel. I've had to use it at few times for smaller nozzles as well that wouldn't engage the flapper.

I haven't had any issues with it making a mess or anything
 

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Railpoler

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I remove my nozzle excluder a few months ago by removing the entire assembly first. I read all the posts about pushing in the “tabs” to remove the excluder. When I pushed on the “tabs” there was no way they were going to budge. They really are not “tabs”, but rather raised bosses. After almost giving up I tried another technique and used a large screw driver to pry out the nozzle piece, ignoring the “tab” completely. I’ll include a photo to show how I positioned the screw driver. The job was easy once I stopped trying to depress the “tab”,
Jeep Gladiator Fill Neck Mod 2821104F-0F26-41E1-85CA-9F059374FDE2
 

gcurtis79

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What is this adapter you speak of?
This little funnel comes in the glove box on all EcoDiesel vehicles. It's designed to allow you to use a Jerry can with the discriminator, since it will only open with a properly sized nozzle.


Jeep Gladiator Fill Neck Mod 1000001506
Jeep Gladiator Fill Neck Mod 1000001507
 

shokker70

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This little funnel comes in the glove box on all EcoDiesel vehicles. It's designed to allow you to use a Jerry can with the discriminator, since it will only open with a properly sized nozzle.


1000001506.jpg
1000001507.jpg
Very interesting. Mine didn't. Haven't had need of it, but only 5K miles in.

Thanks!
 

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Very interesting. Mine didn't. Haven't had need of it, but only 5K miles in.

Thanks!
Check behind the rear seats?

Yeah the little funnel is absolutely not sized for truck stops. I keep seeing people say stuff like that. My jerry can has a diesel-sized flexible spout so the adapter's use is moot for me.

I got me some medium-sized channel locks. Going to try this weekend. See how it goes.
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