Driving in 2 feet of snow

[legacy_etu]

Sorry, it looks like a DUCK!

Someone needs to get Pixedecals to make a duck sti

Sorry, it looks like a DUCK!

well sure, you and I and most others know it looks like a duck but the OP didn’t seem to recognize it. So I figured a more traditional reference would help.

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[RudeJeepin]

There is no one "solution" to your problem, since different snow conditions demand different strategies. But one thing you need to do is drop that air pressure. Start at 10lbs and work down from there as needed. You'd be much better off with 17 inch wheels beadlocks (preferably Icon Rebound Pro's type) rather than 20's. At least your tires meet the 3PMSF standards. But your #1 determining factor is driver experience.

From the sounds of it, you're new to 4wheeling in deep snow, so I'd recommend getting out into the snow and practice, practice, practice. Snow conditions don't just change from day to day, but from hour to hour, lower to higher elevation, wide open to tree covered, and from one side of the mountain to the other. With experience comes the ability to "read" the snow and adapt your strategy to compensate.

Growing up in the PNW, I know all about the cascade concrete. Snow wheeling is my preferred offroading.

@rubicon4wheeler gets it.

Air down some, I'd start at 18-20 as long as you don't have to run on the highway. 25ish should be ok on HWY if your not going too far or too fast. (Chalk test as previously suggested is highly recommended for regular tire pressures.) Start with no lockers and add rear if needed. Don't use the front unless absolutely necessary. Using the front locker will really effect your steering, as in the Jeep will not want to turn very good.
Start out slow and easy to see if you can crawl on to the top of the snow. If that doesn't work, you might have to bash your way through.
I always try to back in, so I can leave going forward. It's easier, not having to turn around in fresh snow.

 

[BearFootSam]

There comes a limit for all vehicles, no matter how well equipped.

And as a neighbor a little to your south, our snow (PNW) is one of the worst snows to drive in. It's wet and heavy. Rarely do we get light and fluffy snow. Yesterday was rain, then 'warm', then cold snow in my area, so we got wet crusties with a little bit of dry, blowing snow on top.

Flotation is the best method, so airing down is best. You'll have to rock it a bit to be able to get enough speed to float on top instead of pushing & compacting the snow.

Then as the snow starts to melt and turn slushy, you want thinner tires so you'll have to air back up.

You must be in a different part than I am. No snow for us Monday afternoon and by Tuesday at noon we had well over 14+. It’s sunny at 17* now but with rain on the way I am about to find out what kind of mud problems we have.

 

[BearFootSam]

How would one get into 4Lo to use Duck Mode. Shouldn't you be rolling 2 - 3 mph to shift?

Getting into 4Hi is much easier while rolling, not absolutely necessary but easier. 4Lo goes fine while stopped. If you can’t move in 2Hi you can back up a little so that as you rock forward 4 hi engages easier.
It’s all about giving the gear teeth a chance to synch.

 

[rubicon4wheeler]

Growing up in the PNW, I know all about the cascade concrete. Snow wheeling is my preferred offroading.

#metoo

I grew up (and still have a home) at 7,500ft elevation in the Sierra Nevada next to a ski resort, where a 2-foot snowstorm is considered a light dusting of snow, and 6-feet overnight means it'll be a little more effort getting to work in the morning. I love snow wheeling more than anything!

Like the "Cascade Concrete" that @RudeJeepin mentioned, we get "Sierra Cement." But first, it usually falls as nice fluffy powder. As soon as the sun comes out, that powder is converted into cement. Skiers get it. 4wheelers get it. Navigating the different types of snow effectively takes years of practice in either sport, and it's not the sort of thing that can be taught in text on an internet forum.

Practice, practice, practice. If one technique (low and slow, crawling on top of the snow) doesn't work, try some throttle. Then back up and try some more. Sometimes nothing can get through the snow until the county snow blowers come through or the sun settles the snow for a couple days. My best snow 4x4 was my Samurai on 35x14.50" tires aired down to 1/2psi. It was every bit as capable as our long-track SkiDoo Skandic snowmobile; if we started burying the snowmobile, we'd know to not take the Samurai out. And vice-versa; if I had to keep winching the Samurai, I knew not to bother taking out the snowmobile until the next day. And don't even bother trying to yank it out with the Kubota tractor, because unburying one of those is an order of magnitude more work than unburying a Samurai or SkiDoo.

Don't go out alone, don't go out without a winch and lots of recovery gear, and don't go out far enough away that you can't trudge back through the snow to civilization. Be well prepared for getting cold and wet. Make sure somebody knows where you're going and when you expect to be back. Have a ham radio or satellite phone - you don't want to make the news by becoming a popsicle.

 

[CreepyJeepy]

40" tires / 37" tires / 35" tires are not snow tires....
I'd rather have a set of narrow 31" tires with a lot of siping in deep snow.

Wide tires float...

My wife's Subaru Forester is better in 99% of the snow conditions a driver faces on roads. It has narrow studded snow tires on it.

My 35" nitto terra grapplers are 'fine' but they are not snow tires....

 

[PW45]

Cascade concrete, good lord that's the truth. One of my early (and expensive) snow lessons came when my brother and I went up the in the mtns for some snow shoeing. drive up was fine, all the snow was rock hard and frozen solid from over night temps. By the time we were headed down, the snow had softened up and we to the axles and frame.

 

[WILDHOBO]

40" tires / 37" tires / 35" tires are not snow tires....
I'd rather have a set of narrow 31" tires with a lot of siping in deep snow.

Wide tires float...

My wife's Subaru Forester is better in 99% of the snow conditions a driver faces on roads. It has narrow studded snow tires on it.

My 35" nitto terra grapplers are 'fine' but they are not snow tires....

It depends on the tire design. My 3 peak severe winter rated Baja boss AT’s are fantastic in snow and ice. Nittos aren’t known for being very good in snow, and are known for being terrible on ice.

 

[jn18]

#metoo

I grew up (and still have a home) at 7,500ft elevation in the Sierra Nevada next to a ski resort, where a 2-foot snowstorm is considered a light dusting of snow, and 6-feet overnight means it'll be a little more effort getting to work in the morning. I love snow wheeling more than anything!

Like the "Cascade Concrete" that @RudeJeepin mentioned, we get "Sierra Cement." But first, it usually falls as nice fluffy powder. As soon as the sun comes out, that powder is converted into cement. Skiers get it. 4wheelers get it. Navigating the different types of snow effectively takes years of practice in either sport, and it's not the sort of thing that can be taught in text on an internet forum.

Practice, practice, practice. If one technique (low and slow, crawling on top of the snow) doesn't work, try some throttle. Then back up and try some more. Sometimes nothing can get through the snow until the county snow blowers come through or the sun settles the snow for a couple days. My best snow 4x4 was my Samurai on 35x14.50" tires aired down to 1/2psi. It was every bit as capable as our long-track SkiDoo Skandic snowmobile; if we started burying the snowmobile, we'd know to not take the Samurai out. And vice-versa; if I had to keep winching the Samurai, I knew not to bother taking out the snowmobile until the next day. And don't even bother trying to yank it out with the Kubota tractor, because unburying one of those is an order of magnitude more work than unburying a Samurai or SkiDoo.

Don't go out alone, don't go out without a winch and lots of recovery gear, and don't go out far enough away that you can't trudge back through the snow to civilization. Be well prepared for getting cold and wet. Make sure somebody knows where you're going and when you expect to be back. Have a ham radio or satellite phone - you don't want to make the news by becoming a popsicle.

Sounds like fun growing up. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

40" tires / 37" tires / 35" tires are not snow tires....
I'd rather have a set of narrow 31" tires with a lot of siping in deep snow.

Wide tires float...

My wife's Subaru Forester is better in 99% of the snow conditions a driver faces on roads. It has narrow studded snow tires on it.

My 35" nitto terra grapplers are 'fine' but they are not snow tires....

You’re not talking about very deep snow if 31s with siping and Subaru Forsters are better than 40s.

 

[Gringo&Gun]

You’re not talking about very deep snow if 31s with siping and Subaru Forsters are better than 40s.

Personally……

 

[Rusty PW]

Put it in duck mode and it will walk right up that driveway.

Forgot about that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It depends on the tire design. My 3 peak severe winter rated Baja boss AT’s are fantastic in snow and ice. Nittos aren’t known for being very good in snow, and are known for being terrible on ice.

Most tire companies and sellers will attest to the fact that in general, narrow tires are better in snow. This has been reported even on 4x4 web sites, and more.
We aren't taking comparing highway tires to 3 peak tires, we're talking comparing basic similar designs wide vs. narrow.
For example - the tire I run is going to be better in snow than a simile tire that's wider.
Skinny apples to fat apples, not skinny apples to fat oranges.

Doesn't take much of a search to verify that.

 

[Pigman67]

We've had over 40" so far this season.

I run a Mojave on 35" Wildpeaks. I run them at 30 psi and i put 250 lbs of weight in the bed directly over the axle. It is also a great idea to turn off traction control

I have had zero issues getting around.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Personally……

I hope those pics are just from a test fit...you need to tighten those cams...cut all but 2 links off that tail on the outside rail. No extra links on the inside rail. Or you'll beat the shit out of your Jeep.

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