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Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms

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So those of you with the AEV lift. How hard do you wheel? Fully loaded with camping gear and or camper of some sorts? Do you find lack of articulation with the AEV lift? I've been wanting it for some time. Need feedback on the lift and springs.
Edit:
Could you use the brackets and say Clayton or Metal Cloak LCA's? More articulation?
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relocation brackets aren't great for crawling over rocks, they drop down and will grab every tall rock you roll over. If you are worried about clearance and ride quality then long arms are the way to go.

you may get more articulation with a bracket but at the cost of hanging the brackets on stuff. SO not worth it, just find a setup that gives you articulation and clearance, plenty out there.

But honestly, running a 3 inch lift for me using the lift mfr's springs, LCA's, track bar and shocks mounted to the OEM mounting positions has not jeopardized ride quality.

I think there is a lot of rhetoric about drop brackets solving a non existent issue if you are using a mfr's lift and not a piecemeal lift solution.

I base this on my past experience coming from a XJ that had a 3" lift with short arms (rough ride, felt every crack) then going to a 8" lift with long arms (smoother ride) and my current experience with my JT stock and now lifted.
 

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So those of you with the AEV lift. How hard do you wheel? Fully loaded with camping gear and or camper of some sorts? Do you find lack of articulation with the AEV lift? I've been wanting it for some time. Need feedback on the lift and springs.
Edit:
Could you use the brackets and say Clayton or Metal Cloak LCA's? More articulation?
It seems like those who go for the AEV lift really are not interested in maximum articulation - so if that is the intent, then someone who wants articulation with a geo bracket style lift will be disappointed since that is not the intent. From everything I have seen and read anyway. That being said it still gives lift so it is still an overall benefit. I am looking at this kit myself specifically to KEEP the factory OEM arms, gain lift, and a higher rate spring. OEM arms will have much better NVH reduction than any of the aftermarket components from all the reading and watching that I have done. Because OEM uses a bonded rubber clevite bushing where most aftermarket arms us some other material or multiple types of material. Some do have a 'soft' rubber bushing, or a combination of that with another joint style. You could use aftermarket arms in conjunction with the brackets but that would depend on how short the aftermarket arms can get. Remember the brackets are designed to correct geometry with the factory length arms. So as long as an aftermarket arm can shorten to the same length as a factory arm then it shouldn't be an issue, and in that case it would in theory provide more articulation. But it would not necessarily be more articulation than just those aftermarket arms and no brackets in the first place.

Edit: I just saw something where Clayton claims to use a OE style bushing - maybe in their 'lower' level lift kits they are? I didn't look into it too far.

relocation brackets aren't great for crawling over rocks, they drop down and will grab every tall rock you roll over. If you are worried about clearance and ride quality then long arms are the way to go.

you may get more articulation with a bracket but at the cost of hanging the brackets on stuff. SO not worth it, just find a setup that gives you articulation and clearance, plenty out there.

But honestly, running a 3 inch lift for me using the lift mfr's springs, LCA's, track bar and shocks mounted to the OEM mounting positions has not jeopardized ride quality.

I think there is a lot of rhetoric about drop brackets solving a non existent issue if you are using a mfr's lift and not a piecemeal lift solution.

I base this on my past experience coming from a XJ that had a 3" lift with short arms (rough ride, felt every crack) then going to a 8" lift with long arms (smoother ride) and my current experience with my JT stock and now lifted.
Man... the same topic keeps coming up. Apologies if this comes off rough, not trying to sound like a jerk here but geo brackets are NOT designed to give MORE articulation. That is not the intent at all. They are SPECIFICALLY designed to use OEM factory arms, provide lift, and correct geometry. OEM arms are designed to have good NVH reduction. They are NOT designed for maximum flex. So the argument that brackets and OEM arms are not good for max articulation is trying to take a square peg and complain when it doesn't fit in a round hole. I don't understand this fettish about how if somebody doesn't have maximum articulation then their lift is junk. Thats not the intended purpose for lifts based on geo brackets. I also have heard a lot of people say the same thing about "it will get hung up on rocks and bashed to pieces" but yet so far I have not seen any pictures or videos of such. It is no different than a stock JT with no lift at all - because essentially the only change is the frame and suspended components are raised. So by that measure then why is everyone not talking about how badly they have bashed their factory control arm mounting brackets? IMO this lift style is NOT intended for hard core rock crawling.
 

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If you'll go back to the first post in this thread you'll see exactly how "low" the brackets hang.
The brackets sit higher than many other suspension components. So if you're gonna drag the brackets it's likely to be after you've already scraped the factory lower control arm mount on the axle end.

I drive a Mojave, and while it has been on some moderate trails, the vast majority of its miles have been in pavement, like most Gladiators.
I understood up front that the Mojave wasn't built to be a crawler, and that's never been its intended purpose with me.
We don't have much desert here in Southern VA either, but we've got plenty of paved roads to cool places and we've got plenty of rough dirt roads and trails that can be driven at pretty good speeds with the proper setup.

On the road, it drives and handles better than my Tacoma did, now that I've figured things out.
 

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I see where you’re coming from about the other components being lower. But if you check how big obstacles are typically tackled, most of the time is by having the tire go over it, and have enough clearance on the side or have trusty sliders to pivot/finish passing the obstacle. With this in mind, the lower control arm in the front isn’t really important being so close to the front tire, likewise for lower rear. But the bracket sits behind the tire and would be in direct contact with whatever obstacle one would be passing over.

To illustrate, here are mine,
Front, hang low, no scratches:
Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms 66AE1B64-EAFF-4DF7-8380-55F880EC2676

Right behind it, you can tell those seen some adventure and are way higher:

Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms 6F408CE3-281C-4884-9D13-2F1973952843

Now for the rear, the lowest point has no scratches never seen a rock:

Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms DD8EB03C-CC11-4022-A5D1-98A08045DC23


but the one in front of it did:

Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms 7C062BAB-C15C-4569-8E93-2CBAD8CFD7D6


I hope this helps, ?
 

Wheelin98TJ

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If you'll go back to the first post in this thread you'll see exactly how "low" the brackets hang.
The brackets sit higher than many other suspension components. So if you're gonna drag the brackets it's likely to be after you've already scraped the factory lower control arm mount on the axle end.

I drive a Mojave, and while it has been on some moderate trails, the vast majority of its miles have been in pavement, like most Gladiators.
I understood up front that the Mojave wasn't built to be a crawler, and that's never been its intended purpose with me.
We don't have much desert here in Southern VA either, but we've got plenty of paved roads to cool places and we've got plenty of rough dirt roads and trails that can be driven at pretty good speeds with the proper setup.

On the road, it drives and handles better than my Tacoma did, now that I've figured things out.
I’d never put drop brackets on something that will be wheeled. Even if it doesn’t hang as low as something else, it’s still being changed to be lower and that’s more stuff to get in the way and get hung up on. Same reason you do a high clearance t-case skid vs using a t-case drop even though you’re dealing with something higher than other things that are lower.

For more road use and better road manners, I’d be fine with using drop brackets. I don’t see the need for them with my Clayton 2.5” lift that’s about 4” front/3” rear.
 

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I see where you’re coming from about the other components being lower. But if you check how big obstacles are typically tackled, most of the time is by having the tire go over it, and have enough clearance on the side or have trusty sliders to pivot/finish passing the obstacle. With this in mind, the lower control arm in the front isn’t really important being so close to the front tire, likewise for lower rear. But the bracket sits behind the tire and would be in direct contact with whatever obstacle one would be passing over.

To illustrate, here are mine,
Front, hang low, no scratches:
66AE1B64-EAFF-4DF7-8380-55F880EC2676.webp

Right behind it, you can tell those seen some adventure and are way higher:

6F408CE3-281C-4884-9D13-2F1973952843.webp

Now for the rear, the lowest point has no scratches never seen a rock:

DD8EB03C-CC11-4022-A5D1-98A08045DC23.jpeg


but the one in front of it did:

7C062BAB-C15C-4569-8E93-2CBAD8CFD7D6.webp


I hope this helps, ?
Valid point and a very important one. But it begs the question - what kind of terrain were you in? It has been expressed multiple times now that those who choose the geo bracket style lift do not run hard core rock trails every weekend. Now if you experienced this on a rough and less maintained forest service road, then yeah there is a problem - but I'm willing to bet this was done on a rather large rock obstacle?

By the way are those the Falcon shocks or something different? Maybe it's the angle but they look kinda black to me.

I’d never put drop brackets on something that will be wheeled. Even if it doesn’t hang as low as something else, it’s still being changed to be lower and that’s more stuff to get in the way and get hung up on. Same reason you do a high clearance t-case skid vs using a t-case drop even though you’re dealing with something higher than other things that are lower.

For more road use and better road manners, I’d be fine with using drop brackets. I don’t see the need for them with my Clayton 2.5” lift that’s about 4” front/3” rear.
The very post that you quoted says specifically that the OP does NOT wheel his rig every weekend, but rather drives plenty of rough forest service roads and beat up paved county roads.
 

ParatusExpeditions

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what kind of terrain were you in? It has been expressed multiple times now that those who choose the geo bracket style lift do not run hard core rock trails every weekend.
Right, I do not run geo brackets because I wheel my JT hard sinceI got it even stock. Just pointing out how worse that would be with them and agree with your statement. The shocks are SDI eclik

Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms 6C0925BE-94A7-4C3D-8AC6-13C6B31747C8
 

chorky

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Right, I do not run geo brackets because I wheel my JT hard sinceI got it even stock. Just pointing out how worse that would be with them and agree with your statement. The shocks are SDI eclik

6C0925BE-94A7-4C3D-8AC6-13C6B31747C8.jpeg
Gotcha. Makes sense. I think theres just a big miscommunication between geo bracket lifts and control arm lifts. I don't see them intended for the same use case at all. Maybe some do and have been disappointed and in that case it is certainly a valid point to make. I dont' wheel hard. OP doesn't either. It's actually very disappointing that Montana has very very few legit off road trails compared to other states.

How is that rear anti-rock treating you?
 

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Yeah. If I were hard wheeling and crawling I wouldn't be doing it in this $62,000 luxury midsized pickup. I'd have a properly outfitted high approach angle long arm beast and not care too much about how it rides on a trip to Orlando and back, because it's never going.
 

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…The very post that you quoted says specifically that the OP does NOT wheel his rig every weekend, but rather drives plenty of rough forest service roads and beat up paved county roads.
That post I quoted starts off with a paragraph about how low hanging brackets aren’t a big deal. I got distracted and provided the downside to them. Carry on.
 
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Lunentucker

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I just added a new preface to the OP to wave off the hard core wheelers so they can spend more time wheeling and less time reading how to get a JT to being a comfortable and fun to drive road truck. ??
 

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How is that rear anti-rock treating you?
Only tested one one trip so far, so I don't have valuable feedback for you im afraid. I'll just say that I would have kept the original one but when flexed hard it hangs lower than the diff so this design fixes that. Also, since I carry a camper in my bed I needed a slightly more rigid one, and this design also fixes the weak point where the OEM one is attached. Seems like running a heavier sway bar got some brackets broken in the past as they aren't strong enough to resist the additional tension.

Anyway, seems like OP wants us to stop reading cause we wheel too much or something so I wont derail this thread more. My two cents though, I don't understand why someone would need to lift their truck, to then try to geo-correct it, if it's not wheeled enough that it matters. Feels like my Rubicon was plenty capable stock for that. And a lift when not needed only has drawbacks?

Good luck ?
 

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I have an AEV370 diesel. Didnt get it to do hard wheeling so in line with the comments here. I did do some tougher trails when it was new and the drop brackets take a beating. Was able to hammer and bend them back into shape. Might be able to weld a piece of plate on there for some protection, but not sure I will. My JKU with an AEV lift brackets looked even worse since it was on 35s.

Have since added the high capacity 3" springs that gave a little extra height front and rear.

Not sure I am adding much to the conversation other than a visual of how they look with some diesel weight smashing them on the rocks :)

Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms IMG_9553


Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms IMG_6236


Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms IMG_6243


Jeep Gladiator Relocation Brackets vs Long Control Arms IMG_0084.JPG
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