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Installed Synergy ball joints transformed the ride

Oak

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Almost 30k miles and getting the clunking noise when hitting a pot hole etc. Didn't feel planted on the highway if the surface was uneven.

Came with the mopar lift and 35s. Changed to milestar 38s around 12k. Updated to Clayton overland lift at 20k and went to 36 inch nittos.

So it's always been lifted and at some point started getting the clunky sound.

No more noise after the ball joint upgrade. The stock balljoints flop back and forth and you can create the sound by hand.

I cut a couple open didn't see anything bad going on. You can barely move the synergy joints by hand and no wsy to create the lunk...at least not now.

Other than the crazy rental press, everything went good.

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Rusty PW

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Oh.....Jesus......that is loose.
 

HooliganActual

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I believe that the stock ball joints use plastic vs metal for the interior load surfaces. I know the ones on my Wrangler are(If you cut them open you can verify). These can be shot without looking like there is anything wrong.
 
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Oak

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I believe that the stock ball joints use plastic vs metal for the interior load surfaces. I know the ones on my Wrangler are(If you cut them open you can verify). These can be shot without looking like there is anything wrong.
I expected to see some plastic parts or pieces when I opened them up but nothing obvious. Maybe the plastic just dissolves over time.
 

Mtpisgah

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How much movement should there be in a ball joint when assembled? I think it is time to replace mine. 46k miles. I have been running 35s for 20k miles and just went to 37s.
 

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Benbean66

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How much movement should there be in a ball joint when assembled? I think it is time to replace mine. 46k miles. I have been running 35s for 20k miles and just went to 37s.
There should be no play in the ball/socket, but should still be able to rotate. If you notice a thunk when trying to pull and push the top and bottom of the tire, chances are the ball joints are worn.
 

Mtpisgah

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There should be no play in the ball/socket, but should still be able to rotate. If you notice a thunk when trying to pull and push the top and bottom of the tire, chances are the ball joints are worn.
I checked the truck today and there was no noticeable movement or noise in the wheel when trying to push and pull it. I tried with the wheel on the griund and jacked up. I will have my mechanic check it to confirm, but I guess my DW is coming from something else.
Thanks
 

WILDHOBO

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Almost 30k miles and getting the clunking noise when hitting a pot hole etc. Didn't feel planted on the highway if the surface was uneven.

Came with the mopar lift and 35s. Changed to milestar 38s around 12k. Updated to Clayton overland lift at 20k and went to 36 inch nittos.

So it's always been lifted and at some point started getting the clunky sound.

No more noise after the ball joint upgrade. The stock balljoints flop back and forth and you can create the sound by hand.

I cut a couple open didn't see anything bad going on. You can barely move the synergy joints by hand and no wsy to create the lunk...at least not now.

Other than the crazy rental press, everything went good.

I’ve never done ball joints, but suspect mine are ready to go. I’m at 31k miles and have been on 37’s with a lift since 12k. Any pictures of the press?

Edit: ignore request for press pictures. I looked it up. Looks straight forward. Why did you choose synergy?
 

Dartboy

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How much movement should there be in a ball joint when assembled? I think it is time to replace mine. 46k miles. I have been running 35s for 20k miles and just went to 37s.
Ball joint free play should be essentially zero. The way we check them is to jack the wheel, stick a prybar through a hole in the wheel and rest it on the top or bottom of the brake rotor. Lift/lower the bar against the wheel, if you feel play, the ball joint needs to be replaced. Lift at the top of the wheel to check the lower ball joint, push down at the bottom of the wheel to check the upper.

Doing it like this locks the wheel/bearing assembly together to feel play in the ball joint. If you just jack it up and shake the tire, you might be feeling play in the bearings.
 
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Oak

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I’ve never done ball joints, but suspect mine are ready to go. I’m at 31k miles and have been on 37’s with a lift since 12k. Any pictures of the press?

Edit: ignore request for press pictures. I looked it up. Looks straight forward. Why did you choose synergy?
I wanted ones that wouldn't have issues if I ever change to rcv axles and didn't want to spend 700 lol
 

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yoda13

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I had them on my JK, they were good quality…
 

WILDHOBO

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I wanted ones that wouldn't have issues if I ever change to rcv axles and didn't want to spend 700 lol
So they work with RCV’s. I have them, so they’d need to. I’ve read the posts about problems with tereflex. Others seem to consider the dynatracs to be the way to go. I’m new to this discussion, so am looking for good information. Thanks.
 

Mtpisgah

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Out of balance/round tires or bent rims. Anything loose will allow the oscillations.
The 37s were installed last week, so are hopefully balanced correctly and round. The thought did cross my mind to have them rebalanced. I had not thought about the wheels being bent, but hopefully the shop would have caught that.
 

Dryfly24

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How much movement should there be in a ball joint when assembled? I think it is time to replace mine. 46k miles. I have been running 35s for 20k miles and just went to 37s.
Did you make any changes in order to accommodate the 37’s or are you just going to run it as is?
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