Start/stop not ready

[Puch]

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[DBravo]

Ok sorry I know this has been beat to death but here it is. I have the message on dash that says start/stop not ready. It has been like that for months, probably since the end of summer. My main battery voltage still shows like 14.2v on offroad pages and have had no issues. Went to dealer since my 36 months is up in a couple weeks and they said it is covered as long as I didn't do any mods with light bars or anything to battery. Well I installed the OEM Mopar Aux switches myself and since it wasn't done by a dealer warranty could be voided, they couldn't give me a straight yes or no. Well they have to keep it a couple days and will give me a loaner for free BUT if they say warranty is voided I will get stuck with a bill for rental and repair.

Question is has anyone found something OTHER than the aux battery being the problem? I would rather just pay for a battery and do it myself and not get stuck with a bill. Thanks

My "Stop/Start not ready" message was triggered by a bank 2 cam 2 phaser. Stop /Start disabled by cam position actuator circuit open. My OBD reader called is a camshaft position sensor, (code 32) but it was the cam phaser that was the issue, the sensor was just picking up on the phaser issue. $209.95 for the part and $487 in labor.

2020 Jeep Gladiator Overland 76k miles my first repair. Pretty happy with this truck overall.

 

[Panthers65]

I bought this: 4Amp Fully Automatic Microprocessor-Controlled Battery Charger/Maintainer (harborfreight.com)

If I don't drive my Jeep for a week and then drive it I'll have the constant Start/Stop not ready message. If I put this on for a day or so my Start/Stop will work as normal for a while, as long as I am consistently driving and doing more than 1-mile trips. With my work schedule I'll go a week straight of driving then might work VO for a week or two. I don't know exactly what's going on, but it's definitely related to the batteries/battery voltage.

It's not always perfect, IE- I had the not ready message on Monday on my way to the office, but the start/stop worked fine on the way home. I didn't charge it while I was at the office, it just randomly decided to work on the way home.

 

[Great Offender]

Bought the vehicle used and did not know about ESS. Although I don't get an error message it is in a constant state of "not ready". I was at the dealer for an unrelated issue and they checked it for me and replaced the IBS. According to the paperwork the ESS worked.
On the drive home from the dealer it almost worked at the first traffic light but never worked again. Will show it to them again when the parts come in for the first issue. Really wouldn't care except I am being told that it is killing the aux battery?

 

[Lost1wing]

My "Stop/Start not ready" message was triggered by a bank 2 cam 2 phaser. Stop /Start disabled by cam position actuator circuit open. My OBD reader called is a camshaft position sensor, (code 32) but it was the cam phaser that was the issue, the sensor was just picking up on the phaser issue. $209.95 for the part and $487 in labor.

2020 Jeep Gladiator Overland 76k miles my first repair. Pretty happy with this truck overall.

Wouldn't that also trigger a check engine light? OP didn't mention any other faults, or so I thought.

 

[DBravo]

Wouldn't that also trigger a check engine light? OP didn't mention any other faults, or so I thought.

yes - check engine light lit up also.

 

[Lunentucker]

Bypass the AUX and replace the main.
About 20 minutes work for all of it.

 

[Lost1wing]

yes - check engine light lit up also.

The OP did not mention a check engine light so I think it would be safe to say that a cam phaser is not the cause of his ESS not ready message. I can also say that a check engine for any reason would prevent ESS from working.

 

[Geoarch]

Ok sorry I know this has been beat to death but here it is. I have the message on dash that says start/stop not ready. It has been like that for months, probably since the end of summer. My main battery voltage still shows like 14.2v on offroad pages and have had no issues. Went to dealer since my 36 months is up in a couple weeks and they said it is covered as long as I didn't do any mods with light bars or anything to battery. Well I installed the OEM Mopar Aux switches myself and since it wasn't done by a dealer warranty could be voided, they couldn't give me a straight yes or no. Well they have to keep it a couple days and will give me a loaner for free BUT if they say warranty is voided I will get stuck with a bill for rental and repair.

Question is has anyone found something OTHER than the aux battery being the problem? I would rather just pay for a battery and do it myself and not get stuck with a bill. Thanks

I had a rodent chew through my wiring to the ESS switch on my hood. That was a weird one to track down. Now at 19 months my Aux died and my main right behind it and I had an Odessey in the mail, so I can wait with a dead JTR, or buy another battery (i.e. Super Start at O'Neills). I'm just going to replace them both every 18 months to 2 years. I'm retired and don't drive it every day. That's part of the problem. I'd rather be retired than get back into the rat (so to speak) race.

 

[Mr._Bill]

I had a rodent chew through my wiring to the ESS switch on my hood. That was a weird one to track down. Now at 19 months my Aux died and my main right behind it and I had an Odessey in the mail, so I can wait with a dead JTR, or buy another battery (i.e. Super Start at O'Neills). I'm just going to replace them both every 18 months to 2 years. I'm retired and don't drive it every day. That's part of the problem. I'd rather be retired than get back into the rat (so to speak) race.

Get a battery maintainer to connect when not driving it. You should get a longer life expectancy out of the batteries.

 

[Geoarch]

Get a battery maintainer to connect when not driving it. You should get a longer life expectancy out of the batteries.

Well I do put the AGM charger on it, but evidently not frequently enough.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Well I do put the AGM charger on it, but evidently not frequently enough.

The parasitic draw on these is fairly high, especially if you have the 8.4 Uconnect. The mediocre quality batteries they ship with doesn't help any.

 

[Geoarch]

The parasitic draw on these is fairly high, especially if you have the 8.4 Uconnect. The mediocre quality batteries they ship with doesn't help any.

Well I'm replacing them with batteries with higher CCAs, and 1) will charge them periodically, and 2) replace them every 18 months to 2 years. I'm a geologist and don't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere, which is generally where I work. I've had to walk out for various reasons in the Southwest over the years, but I ain't getting any younger. I have a NORCO, but it might not always work.

 

[Fishee]

Thanks for everyone's input but I found an easier fix, sure not the cheapest but it works great now....just traded in my Nacho Willys for a fully loaded Punk'n Rubicon that my local dealer had at over $18k off. Everything works great now ???

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