Here we go again - 3.73 with 35s - how bad is it really?

[Sigz]

It's getting to that time where I'm interested in doing another Jeep mod no my 22 Sport S.

I currently run Falken Wildpeak At3w's 285/70/17 with a Teraflex 1.5 level - but am looking to beef up the tires to a 35.

I do have the Sport S - so I have the 'dreaded' 3.73 gear ratio.

I don't go off road. I live in Wisconsin and see rolling hills from time to time....

I use my JT as my DD - primarily driving to work and back (15mins).

I don't do any heavy hauling/towing - just the typical weekend camping / hunting trips,

I'm currently averaging about 18mpg with primarily city driving...

I'd like to know for those who have had 35s and 3.73 - how bad of an idea it would be to pursue a setup like this? I have the ability to recalibrate tire size into the JT computer. But how bad will it be in the city? How bad will it be on the freeway? I am not a speed demon nor do I have a heavy foot....

I'm not sure what 35in tire to go for at the moment, but it will NOT be the AT4w due to the weight. I would like to find something that is rated well, but not overly heavy....

I have read everything form the JT will be a "dog" to "fine" when searching through the forum. I'm sure it is an individualized judgement, but I'd like a little more clarity before dropping big moolah on tires....

Thanks!

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[Rahkmalla]

I don't go off road

drop by a tire shop and ask to see a 35 rolled up next to your 33s. if you're not using the ground clearance, the "look" is more colored perception than reality. AKA you'll see it because your post-purchase rationalization brain will tell you that you're smart and pretty and never wasteful, but to everyone who's not you, the aesthetic difference will be a big nothingburger

I bought a set of the walmart blowout 80.44/ea kenda klever 35s when I still owned my willys in anticipation of the arrival of my ordered mojave. I was curious the size difference so i rolled those 35s up next to my willys 32s and was more than a bit underwhelmed. Don't get me wrong, i still put them on my Mojave the day after i took it home because i'd already spent the money, but if i'd gotten those at full price i would have been quite cross with myself.

If you're not using it offroad, the race to fit the biggest tires is pointless. Wait until your current tires wear out when the price difference between a 33 and 35s is just a small upgrade. Right now, you'd be throwing away good tread for nothing. That's expensive.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Your already in the right mindset. Tire weight is huge impact as rotational mass. Many on here just consider tire height and nothing else. And then shout from the hill top that you need 5.13s to run 33s (they have 50lb beadlocks and 90lb e rated tires). But then it doesn't make any sense when their are owners like myself who run 37s on stock 4.10s (OE Sport wheels 22lbs, 37 d rated tires 80lbs).

While tire height is important and does play quite a factor, keeping tire weight down does help mitigate the need for a regear. We also have the great advantage of having an 8 speed. with a 1st gear ratio of 4.69:1, Your gladiator won't have any shortcomings when it comes to getting bigger tires moving.

So to regear or not to regear? Well it boils down to preference rather than need these days. The more weight your truck has sprung and unsprung, the more torque it will need to keep it moving. With our engine, the 3.6, that means more rpm. However due to the max hp our motors can output, there is a point of diminishing return where you have to start trading cruising speed for the mechanical leverage to keep going. I.E it doesn't matter how deep a gear you go, your 3.6 ain't turning a 42in mud swamper at 80mph in 8th gear. Not that you'd want to of course.

Anyway for your use case, I'd take into consideration if you ever plan on towing 2000lbs or greater. If so 4.56s or 4.10s are gonna be recommended. But if not, 3.73 is more than enough to turn a lighter config of 35s for DD use. Toyotas run 35s on that gear set just fine with an old 5 speed or 6 speed. With an 8 speed at your disposal, you'll just take a hit to mpgs and it'll be fine.

You may notice however that 8th and maybe even 7 won't wanna hold at their usual 62-72 mph range. Due to the tire increase they will be better utilized at higher speeds. If thats an issue for you and you want your gear to speed matched to stock, you will have to regear.


I have 4.10s on 315/70s atm and in the past 3000 miles I've noticed a mpg increase over my stock 33s. Thats because i got a 35 that was lighter than the stock 33s and I feel that 4.10s w/35s is more economical setup from a gearing stanpoint whereas 4.10s w/33s is a more torquey setup. Hope this helps!

 

[Sigz]

Your already in the right mindset. Tire weight is huge impact as rotational mass. Many on here just consider tire height and nothing else. And then shout from the hill top that you need 5.13s to run 33s (they have 50lb beadlocks and 90lb e rated tires). But then it doesn't make any sense when their are owners like myself who run 37s on stock 4.10s (OE Sport wheels 22lbs, 37 d rated tires 80lbs).

While tire height is important and does play quite a factor, keeping tire weight down does help mitigate the need for a regear. We also have the great advantage of having an 8 speed. with a 1st gear ratio of 4.69:1, Your gladiator won't have any shortcomings when it comes to getting bigger tires moving.

So to regear or not to regear? Well it boils down to preference rather than need these days. The more weight your truck has sprung and unsprung, the more torque it will need to keep it moving. With our engine, the 3.6, that means more rpm. However due to the max hp our motors can output, there is a point of diminishing return where you have to start trading cruising speed for the mechanical leverage to keep going. I.E it doesn't matter how deep a gear you go, your 3.6 ain't turning a 42in mud swamper at 80mph in 8th gear. Not that you'd want to of course.

Anyway for your use case, I'd take into consideration if you ever plan on towing 2000lbs or greater. If so 4.56s or 4.10s are gonna be recommended. But if not, 3.73 is more than enough to turn a lighter config of 35s for DD use. Toyotas run 35s on that gear set just fine with an old 5 speed or 6 speed. With an 8 speed at your disposal, you'll just take a hit to mpgs and it'll be fine.

You may notice however that 8th and maybe even 7 won't wanna hold at their usual 62-72 mph range. Due to the tire increase they will be better utilized at higher speeds. If thats an issue for you and you want your gear to speed matched to stock, you will have to regear.


I have 4.10s on 315/70s atm and in the past 3000 miles I've noticed a mpg increase over my stock 33s. Thats because i got a 35 that was lighter than the stock 33s and I feel that 4.10s w/35s is more economical setup from a gearing stanpoint whereas 4.10s w/33s is a more torquey setup. Hope this helps!

Thanks for that in depth reply!

In curious with what 35inch tire you went with? What was your OG 33in tire?

 

[PuddleJumper]

Thanks for that in depth reply!

In curious with what 35inch tire you went with? What was your OG 33in tire?

OG tires : Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws 285/70r17s C range 6ply LT tire at 62~65lbs (they weren't very consistent

Current tires : Goodyear Wrangler Territory M/T (its actually an AT) 315/70r17 C range at 54~55lbs

Note on the goodyear that it had a lower max psi rating, 35 psi, but then also states plus 10psi on top of the max is acceptable. So you can run it at 45psi, I run the rears at 39 when towing my camper.

 

[ShastaJT6]

As bad is said in the other 500 threads, which you acknowledged in your title.

 

[Sigz]

As bad is said in the other 500 threads, which you acknowledged in your title.

Hey, sorry to take up some of your bandwidth here.

 

[Sigz]

OG tires : Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws 285/70r17s C range 6ply LT tire at 62~65lbs (they weren't very consistent

Current tires : Goodyear Wrangler Territory M/T (its actually an AT) 315/70r17 C range at 54~55lbs

Note on the goodyear that it had a lower max psi rating, 35 psi, but then also states plus 10psi on top of the max is acceptable. So you can run it at 45psi, I run the rears at 39 when towing my camper.

Thanks.

I've also been eyeing up the Toyo Open County At3, but holy moly - they are expensive!

 

[PuddleJumper]

Thanks.

I've also been eyeing up the Toyo Open County At3, but holy moly - they are expensive!

don't look at 37s then

 

[Advntrbound]

I've been running 35's for over a year. It isn't bad at all. I have a MT and never use 6th gear. I do want to eventually re-gear just so I can tow a boat. But I have a pickup for that.

 

[Zachanadandy]

drop by a tire shop and ask to see a 35 rolled up next to your 33s. if you're not using the ground clearance, the "look" is more colored perception than reality. AKA you'll see it because your post-purchase rationalization brain will tell you that you're smart and pretty and never wasteful, but to everyone who's not you, the aesthetic difference will be a big nothingburger

I bought a set of the walmart blowout 80.44/ea kenda klever 35s when I still owned my willys in anticipation of the arrival of my ordered mojave. I was curious the size difference so i rolled those 35s up next to my willys 32s and was more than a bit underwhelmed. Don't get me wrong, i still put them on my Mojave the day after i took it home because i'd already spent the money, but if i'd gotten those at full price i would have been quite cross with myself.

If you're not using it offroad, the race to fit the biggest tires is pointless. Wait until your current tires wear out when the price difference between a 33 and 35s is just a small upgrade. Right now, you'd be throwing away good tread for nothing. That's expensive.

I hate the "wait until your tires wear out" advice. If you want bigger tires be it looks or offroad why spend years unhappy with your vehicle? Why wait until the tires are shot and you have to pay a disposal fee? I got a screaming Walmart deal on the kanati mud hogs in a 37x12.50r17. Shipped to the house for $412. The mojave had 1100 miles on it at that point. Sold the stock 33s for $600. I actually made money going to 37s, massively improved the breakover and departure angles that desperately need help if you're going to wheel a gladiator, and it looks a whole lot better too.

 

[arosen1997]

Op it's not nearly as bad as people make it out to be.
I ran Yokohama Geolandar X-ATs in 35x12.5 E load for 4.5 years (70lbs each). I never had any issues accelerating, yeah I didn't see 8th gear very often but with the 8 speed it really didn't matter. I averaged anywhere from 16-18mpg depending on the time of year and traffic. I took them to Moab, out to the Owyhee Mountains and up in the national forests plenty as well, never was sitting there thinking I didn't have enough HP or Torque for what I was doing.

 

[coastiej171]

I have a 21’ sport (3.73) with a 2” mopar lift and been running BFG KO2’s since 3k miles (now 41k) miles and have been fine. I live in Indiana and it’s pretty flat where I live. But made the occasional road trip with not so bad hills and been completely fine but would still like to have 4.88 or 5.13 in the future, but to answer your question. I think you’ll be fine

 

[Jrgunn5150]

There are people who think the Ford 300 6 is the end all be all truck engine.

There are people who think their 6.0 LS in a 2500 tows fine.

There are people who think a 5500 isn't enough truck to do anything with.

There are people who insist they need to be able to tow a garrilion miles a day.

One persons fine is anothers no friggin way. Highly subjective. Toyota put 4.88's in 4runners that had factory 31's lol. TRX's have 3.55's with a 37.

You won't die in a fire, and tens of thousands of mall crawlers run the roads with similar set ups. You may not be happy, but you can always regear later.

 

[AmishMike]

Simply put, it will make you want to sell your truck.

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